Logo
FULL SITE MENU

BIG PROBLEMS

R

ruckus3313

Regular Contributor
"1984 aq125a!!!i installed the

"1984 aq125a!!!i installed the electronic ignition kit plus flame thrower coil last week. just finally got everything recommissioned and was trying to start it today.It turned over but did not start.seemed like ti wasn't getting spark. i realized i forgot to put the purple(-)negative wire back onto the negative coil terminal.the tilt wasn't working either.as soon as i did that the tilt starting working normal again. as soon as i turned the key for it to crank over EVERYTHING just died. no cranking over, tilt doesn't work. NOTHING WORKS, just went dead completely. the couple of fuses i checked were all good PLEASE HELP!! Thanks"
 
"JCH, the purple goes to the P

"JCH, the purple goes to the POSITIVE, not to the negative of the coil. Find the thermal fuse (red button) in the back of your engine, press it, and the power should be reset.

Not sure if the electronic module has survived, though (or even the coil)."
 
"El P.,

i thought the purpl

"El P.,

i thought the purple went to the negative because the purple wire was the one connected to the points??but i could be wrong??and as far as the electric module??what and where is that??"
 
"The electronic module I am ta

"The electronic module I am talking about is your brand new electronic ignition kit....

As for the wiring, you can download the operator's manual from VP, or check Seloc. But purple (dark red in the original VP instructions) is the standard colour for ignition (positive, of course).

Your ignition module (I am assuming is a Pertronix 2842) comes with two wires: one black and one red. The red goes to the + of the coil and the black to the -. Then you would have two other wires going to the coil: a grey to the (-), which goes to the tachometer, and a purple (or "dark red) to the (+), which goes to the ignition switch. There could be another purple wire connected to the (+) of the coil, which would go to the field exciter in the alternator if you are using a brushless SEV Marchal or similar.

But again, please verify your installation wiring with the operator's manual, or Seloc, and also with the instructions of your electronic ignition module."
 
"El P.,

thanks again for th

"El P.,

thanks again for the help. I just went outside and put the purple wire to the + side. I have a whiteish/gray wire to the negative and the red from the pertronix to the positive. i only have the black from the pertronix and the white to tach on the neg - side. i pushed the red button and it didn't seem like it was even tripped(didn't click or anything)still nothing. only thing that works is the blower and the bilge pump lol.. even though its not that funny... my dash lights do not light up and my horn doesn't even work.none of the gauges work??would a bad coil or (2842) give me no power to anything??"
 
"If you don't get power to

"If you don't get power to the ignition switch, then I still think the thermal fuse is the problem (unless the ignition switch has suffered from a sudden meltdown). Check with a volt meter between either side and ground, you should get 12V in either case. If you only do get 12V in one, the fuse is either tripped (you may have to press the button harder) or NFG. And if you don't get 12V in either of them, then the problem is somewhere between the thermal fuse and the battery."
 
"thanks again. ill go try to r

"thanks again. ill go try to reef on the button. if that doesn't work then ill go farther. I cannot believe my one mistake can be this this much headache. i am only 2 years into being a nautical person so sometimes i get flustered easily.however, i do have patience and i learn quickly. Hopefully i get her purring in the water again soon. and hopefully this electronics kit does work well!!"
 
"El Pescador,

I just remove

"El Pescador,

I just removed the thermal fuse and ignition switch and Im bringing them into work in the morning to see if they are any good??(still no power to entire vessel) also, there are 2 GREEN wires in the back and they are not in my manual. they are both attached to a bolt on the flywheel housing.the one even has a sticker stating(to be connected to flywheel housing).anyways the one is attached to the bolt that is holding the steering arm to the outdrive on the transom. the other is just floating in mid air?? any ideas????thx"
 
"You didn't have to remove

"You didn't have to remove the thermal fuse for testing it, you just needed to check for voltage (12V) between each of its two terminals and ground. If you did not have a volt meter (or are not sure on how to use one), a lamp inserted on a lampholder with two wires would have done the trick. For testing, one wire would go to ground, the other one to one of the terminals in the thermal switch,then to the other. If the lamp lit from both terminals, the fuse was good.

The green wires are for bonding together the steering arm, the transom shield and the bellhousing, so that they all have a common ground. The way I have wired them on my boat is the terminal with two wires goes to the tilt mechanism flange; then one of the other wires goes tothe steering arm bolt by the spline, and the last one to the bellhousing. Use whatever combination you want as long as engine (with bellhousing), transom shield and steering arm are bonded together."
 
yeah i know i didnt have to re

yeah i know i didnt have to remove them but it was just as easy for me to remove them and bring them to work. i work at a Chrysler dealer and have a electronics whiz at work. Thanks for all the help as i can always use your knowledge El P..!!
 
Back
Top