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bf8ah throttle pivot bolt

It may be that item 7, the bolt "collar", has been deformed or crushed from overtightening the bolt. It's in there to maintain correct movement of the swivel after the bolt is "snugged" down. About 80 inch lbs. (5-6 lb. ft.) of torque is all that's needed. Apply Loc-Tite and allow it to cure.
Look carefully at that collar as well as the two bushings and I think you will see what's causing you grief.

Leave the transmission in neutral and count the turns on the adjustment nut when you disconnect the shift rod at the power head. Use the same number of turns going back together and your previous shift adjustment will be maintained.

Good luck.
 
Hello & thanks for the info. I will check the bushings & bolt collar tomorrow & see what i find.I do know that the bottom washer ( # 6 in the handlebar diagram ) is missing but it was working pretty good until the other day when the throttle plate wouldn't go back to the idle position. the pivot bolt was finger loose & would tilt the plate & bind up. i tightened the bolt to snup but then the plate wouldn't go back to idle. now it won't fire up & i'm thinking that i have the throttle cable out of adjustment & it's not getting air so my next question is how far does the throttle plate have to move to let enough air in to let it start ? Also, does the throttle cable stop adjust the cable length ? i stare at it until i'm blue in the face but can make no sense of it. can you please explain it to me ? Also, this is what my shift rod looks like on my bf8ah la. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF8AH LA/EXTENSION CASE/parts.html i see no adjustment nut, only a pin with a cotter pin going through it so do i pull the cotter pin out to drop the lower unit down to inspect the impeller or can i just unscrew the threaded shift rod & if so what gear should it be in ? Thanks !
 
First, the shift rod....
The clevis pin retained by a cotter pin that you describe is actually inserted into a hole in the oddly shaped adjustment nut. You have the transmission in neutral and pull the cotter pin and remove the clevis pin from the shifter linkage and the oddly shaped adjustment nut with the hole at the top. You then move the adjustment nut and rod away from the shift linkage clevis just enough so that you can unscrew the nut from the shift shaft counting the turns as you do so. The nut must be removed from the top of the shift rod because it will not pass through the bottom of the oil case and extension case as you pull the gearcase, with shift rod still attached, down and away from the outboard. The adjustment nut is left off of the shift rod until you put the gearcase back on the extension case after working on the water pump. The adjustment nut is then threaded back on to the shift rod threads using the same number of turns that it took to remove it. This maintains your previous shift rod adjustment.

Now the throttle cable adjustment....
Shift lever in neutral.
Turn throttle grip to start position.
Adjust the cable so that the throttle arm contacts the shift arm by turning the nuts at the end of the cable housing.
Tighten the nuts.
Close the throttle grip fully.
Adjust the stop screw so that the carburetor throttle plate is fully closed.

Make sure that the throttle plate opens all the way when the grip is twisted to max. This should ensure your engine achieves full operating rpms. (5500 rpm)

These adjustments are made because Honda wanted to limit the rpms when the outboard is in reverse gear. (3000 rpm).

If, after performing these adjustments, the outboard doesn't get to full rpms in gear, it's possible something could be worn or damaged in the twist grip. Other factors can also limit full rpms too.

Wrong or damaged prop.
Misfiring cylinder
Engine out of time
Poor fuel quality

When the engine is cold, some outboards may start easier if the throttle is left fully closed and 1/4 to 1/2 choke is used.
When restarting a warm engine, "cracking" the throttle open slightly may prevent flooding.

If you think you have flooded the engine, opening the throttle fully and giving 3 to 4 pulls should clear it.

I hope this helps. If you still feel confused about any of it, I will be happy to try and help you get past whatever the "snag" is.

Good luck.
 
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