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BF30A Shift Shaft replacement

J

JimmyKeith

New member
I need to replace the shift shaft on my BF30A. What parts do I need to remove or not remove to get at the shift shaft? Any help is appreciated.
 
Which part of the shift shaft do you want to remove? The one going into the lower unit or the one going up to the power head?

Mike
 
For the benefit of anyone else looking at this, if the plastic piece that is not numbered in part #7 is broken, it is generally because someone tried to shift the motor into gear when the motor was not running or without someone turning the prop.

This is not difficult, just tedious. If you ever thought you wanted to be a surgeon, this is you test for calmness and fine motor skills.

You do not have to remove the lower unit, unless something is wrong with the long shift shaft.

You do have to remove the rectifier on the front of the motor. Maybe a couple of grounds attached to the front in that same area for clearance.

You will probably also have to remove the cover that is by the shift handle. You have to use your imagination as to how to get some of the parts apart.

Also remove the neutral safety switch, if yours has one #15 and #8 the neutral detent http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/1999/BF30AX%20LHA%20MARINE%20ENGINE%2C%20JPN%2C%20VIN%23%20BAWL-3000001/SHIFT%20SHAFT/parts.html
to get them out of the way.

Replace #10 as an assembly, you will thank yourself many times over if you do.

Once you have cleared the way, you have to remove #18 and 14.
Remove the shift rod from the shift handle that is going into #5. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H..., JPN, VIN# BAWL-3000001/HANDLEBAR/parts.html by removing pin #38.
If the rod is bent beyond what it should be, order one of those also. If it is not right, you will not get reverse.

You have to remove split pin #29 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H... JPN, VIN# BAWL-3000001/WATER PUMP/parts.html
from the shift shaft from the lower unit.

For any of the pins that you have removed, buy new ones. They are much easier to install. Be aware...they look the same but check by part number because they are different sizes.

Plus if you are like me, you will drop them several times before you finally lose one.

Reassemble in reverse, using a little marine grease on the moving parts.

Then drink your beer. You deserve it!

Mike
 
Thanks Mike for taking the time to detail the replacement. I guess I don't pass the surgeons test because I was starting to remove everything (flywheel, starter, rectifier...) to get at the shift shaft assemble. You are saying it can be done without removing any of those parts?

Thanks again for you reply.
 
Sorry for the misguidance. I will double check a manual tonight. I was trying to do this from memory.

As I think about it, removing the starter (which requires removing the flywheel), may give you a lot more room.

I have done a bunch of 25 hp's, which are set up the same, but they were pull start.

Mike
 
Last edited:
Disregard my last post:

What is the best way to hold the fly wheel while removing the nut?

It's off.



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