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Best way to winterize?

Perhaps a bit more info would be helpful.
Engine, type of cooling system, year model, etc?

A few photos may be helpful also.

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If you are unsure how to winterize your I/O then I would strongly suggest you have a professional do it. That way you are covered by their insurance in case they miss something and you end up with a cracked block or head.

I had a co-worker who always did his own winterization. One year he missed a water jacket and ended up with a cracked block. He no longer does his own.
Having a professional do it is cheap insurance. Of course, by professional, I mean someone you know who has a reputable business and referrals.
 
OK..... that was like pulling teeth for a few minutes there! :D :D

Disclaimer..... these are my preferred methods and are suggestions only.
See your OEM service manual, and/or choose the method that you are the most comfortable with.


You may want to add fuel stabilizer to your fuel tank. Best to do this prior to your last run.
You can also add a heavy mix directly into your fuel filter cartridge just prior to the engine warm up and oil change.
When the engine is operated during the warm up and oil change, this mixture will be sent into the carburetor.

Next warm the engine up while you have a water supply connected.
Then do your oil/filter change.
(warm engine oil is much easier to work with re; viscosity)
Re-start engine afterwards to bring the new oil into all moving parts.

With a Raw Water cooling system, the engine block must be drained as well as the Circulating pump via the suction hose.
NOTE: Probe the drain ports to free them from any heavy rust scale so that all water drains out.
You may need to repeat this.

Every low port in the exhaust system should be opened up and drained.
Again..... Probe the drain ports to free them from any heavy rust scale so that all water drains out.
You may need to repeat this.


Optional but recommended:
Remove the sea water pump impeller, and store it for the winter.
(an impeller left in the pump body for the winter certainly takes it's tole on one)

With the impeller removed, prepare to fog the cylinders.
We can do a quick 8-10 second low RPM "dry start" without harming anything.
NOTE: this quick "dry start" ensures that the cylinders and exhaust system have been blown out dry.
During this 8-10 second "dry start" is when the engine cylinder fogging can take place.
8-10 seconds is more than enough to properly fog cylinders.

Your 5.7L engine uses a dual plane intake manifold.
This means that the fogging solution must enter both primary throttle bores equally in order to best fog all 8 cylinders equally.
If we miss one plane, we may also miss 4 cylinders.

At approx 1,000 to 1,200 RPM, begin fogging.
Rather than letting the fogging solution kill the engine, have a helper shut the ignition off while you continue fogging.
(Do not change the throttle plate position)
This prevents the combustion of the fogging solution during those last few revolutions as all comes to rest.

If you have power assist steering, you'll want to make sure that the sea water side of oil cooler is drained also.

The out drive will self drain when left in the full down position.



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