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Bench Starting 1998 225 hp Johnson

T

TerryRainer

New member
I'm nearing the completion of a rebuild on my 98 Johnson 225hp model J225TXECS with the modular engine harness. I'm wondering if anyone has a procedure to bench start the motor. I just want to make sure I have all the permissives and interlocks taken care of before trying to start it......would save some time troubleshooting with a step by step procedure. thanks in advance for the help.
 
Re: Bench Starting 98 225hp Johnson

I've started a 150hp Ficht on a bench before just to see if it could be done. I would highly recommend NOT to try it. Put the mtr all back together and then start it. That way you also have a good water supply and and then do your checks.
 
Re: Bench Starting 98 225hp Johnson

With the powerhead on the bench, I usually leave the heads off, and do my testing at that point.
I can set TDC pointer perfectly by looking at the piston position.

I do not torque the flywheel, just get the nut tight. No need to torque it until you get ready to actually start it.
Then, if the stator needs looking at, or the timer base, it is easy to get the flywheel back off.

I hook up the powerpack, leaving it dangling off the back. I can then test stator output voltages at starter speed,
and I can do my spark 7/16" jump test. All of this with no heads on, and no fuel supply.

Once my ignition is right, I turn the motor around and do the link and sync. It is amazing how much easier it is to do the link and sync
without having to climb and twist and bend with the motor on the boat.

Install heads, do compression check. I look for 110 on all 6. If they are low, remember the rings haven't been run yet and are not seated.

Then I set the powerhead on a test misdection I have set up, and run it. At that point it just needs some fine tuning. I have already verified spark and compression, so I don't have to worry about that.

Set WOT timing with Joe Reeves method, disabling QuickStart, and when satisfied, move the powerhead to the midsection it is destined for.

Easy.
 
Great post - I have copied and saved your process - never ever occured to me to do initial testing that way - always used the "slap it all back together and cross your fingers method" :)
 
Well, I quickly raced through that description...there are steps I left out....so don't forget those....
Regarding link and sync....and a step I left out is this:

I always do the throttle butterfly plate sync with the black carb bodies OFF the engine. It is so much easier to see if one butterfly is gapped open a bit,
the adjustments are very accessible, and you can tap on each throttle plate to see if they are all closed. One that is slightly open will sound different as you tap on it. Once they are perfect, put the black carb bodies on.

In fact, I will not even bother trying to set the sync of the carb throttle plates with the black carb bodies installed. I always pull them off. It is more work, but in the long run, a tiny gap in one plate, especially like on #5 or #6, will screw up the idle so bad.....
 
Great advice...thanks...right now I have the motor and midsection mounted to a stand. I haven't done the link/sync or spark test yet. I verified the throttle plates when I rebuilt the carbs and assembled the 3 back together. Is there anything that needs to be done when I connect a battery to the starter relay? can I just put 12v to the starter relay coil to start it? I'll look around on the board for the spark test and link & sync procedures. SOOO much good info on here.
 
I usually use marine battery cables, connected up just like they would be when installed on the boat. Neg to block ground at the starter, and Pos to the starter solenoid. Then a short run from the other big terminal of the solenoid to the starter post. Just as if it were finished and completed.

Then I use a remote trigger-style remote starter switch. I don't have to worry about loose battery wires, and accidental high current shorts, etc.

This is what I use: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902175000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


I have tried jumper cables in the past, but they fall off.
Clip one side of the switch to the POS BATT lead at the solenoid, and the other to the small post that energizes the solenoid, the one with the yellow/red wire.
 
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