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Bayliner Distributor Brat

JER1965

New member
I recently bought an 86 Bayliner Capri with a Volvo AQ131A that wasn't running. The timing was of so I checking my timing belt and marks, they are good. I lined up the marks and set the distributor rotor to face the #1 post on the Dist Cap. The boat started just fine and ran for about 30-45 seconds then I heard a rattling noise around the Dist and block area of motor and the boat immedietly died. When I relined my marks up, the rotor was off by a tooth. I reset it again and the same thing happened. I pulled the Distributor and checked to see that the gear was secure and it felt tight. I checked the gear on the counter shaft to see if it had any play and it didn't appear to have any play. Has anyone heard of this sort of thing happening or is this not a common problem with these motors?
Thank you so very much!
 
Check the belt tensioner and tensioner pulley bearing. If the tensioner is bad, that may account for the belt slipping a tooth or two.
The tension spring must provide the correct tension, and the bearing must be near perfect.

Note that the markings on the belt are of less importance to the actual marking at each shiv (cogged pulley).
If those all aign with the OEM markings while at TDC C/R #1 cylinder, then your counter-shaft and camshaft should be indexed correctly to the crankshaft.
These marks on the belt are there for initial belt installation only and only while all shivs are indexed correctly.
Once you start the engine, the marks won't necessarily align again for several revolutions.
What this means in other terms, is that you could actually install this belt with no markings on it at all.
They are a guide only.

As for the rattle, that is odd unless the flyweights within the distributor are loose or the fuel pump arm is bad.
Perhaps pull the fuel pump.
Pull the distributor cap and breaker plate, and look at these flyweights. Make sure that they are free, and that they return fully.
When setting ignition timing, look at your OEM specs for TA (total advance) and check accordingly.
BASE is important, but your TA is more important.

Have you looked at the drive cushion for the sea water pump? If the rubber is gone that may also explain the rattle... not sure!

.
 
The rattle may simply be backfiring and pre-ignition noise....
I'd get the timing to stay put before opening up the distributer, just a thought..
There are some tiny part involved !
 
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