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Battery charging possibility?

oldmanfishing

New member
Recently purchased a 20HP Mariner outboard serial number B140172. I have searched but was unable to find the year. Suspect it is around 1987. Would appreciate if you could confirm.

There appears to be a lighting coil taken out from under the flywheel to a terminal block under the engine cover with yellow and gray wires. Can this be used for charging a battery if a rectifier is added?
 
Yes, it is an 87 model.

And yes, if the charge stator has already been installed (which would be the wires going to the isolation block) then it (could) charge a battery.

The "lighting coils" (charge stator) on this model is fairly low powered however - just 60 watts (5 amps) and only at wide open throttle.

It will vary from substantially below one amp at idle upto the full 5 amp output.

So, if you have a fully charged battery that you use for nothing more than nav lights and maybe a fishfinder the motor can keep it topped up.

If you are looking to replace the power sucked by an electric trolling motor (say it pulls 25 amps if you run it for an hour) you would have to run your outboard, at full throttle, for 5 hours straight to recharge the battery.

Since the hard work appears to be done (stator already there) an aftermarket rectifier (diamond shape with three posts - standard Merc rectifier) can be added for about 35 bucks.

It would have to be connected to a battery ALL THE TIME or you would fry the rectifier, stator and possibly other ignition components.

So, depending on your charging needs this might suit your purpose.

However, most portable outboards were never designed to recharge a battery that is hooked to the range of electrical and electronics we have today and often a decent on-board charger that you plug in at the dock (or at home on the trailer) is the superior choice...
 
Galamb

Thank you very much for your prompt and experienced response. You have saved me many hours of searching the web.

Knowing the year I can obtain the proper manual to go forward. I don't know why they don't put the year of manufacture on the motor. It seems to be full time job for you.

Can you identify the model number of the motor from the serial number. I have seen references to 20HP Jet, ELX or MLX. Not sure if it is important for parts, props etc.

I appreciate what you explained in terms of the charging limitations. Fortunately I only have a fishfinder and possibily some intermittent navigation loads.

Is the rectifier from Mercury a standard full wave rectifer or does it have some form of regulation such as a zerner diode built in? I would assume that if the unit has three terminals then the charging coil must be center tapped to ground and the output of the rectifer would go to the positive terminal. Hopefully the manual will shown these details.

Thank you again for your attention and response to my request.
 
Merc does not encode the year into their serials (which is really just a production number) so that a dealer will never have "last years model" on the showroom floor.

Merc builds their motors in a "model run". For example, all the 6-25 horse models built between 1986 and 1994 were "mechanically identical" such that if a motor was built say in 1989 but didn't sell until 1992 it would have been sold as a "brand new" motor and the warranty would start from that date even though it was (technically) three years old already.

However, as stated, mechanically there would be no way to say that it wasn't "current".

I don't have a correlation between the production number and model.

In the portable line however, it's pretty easy to figure out.

M - manual or rope start
E - electric start
L - long shaft (20")

So an 8M would be a short shaft rope start and 8ML or 8EL would be a longshaft version with manual or electric start respectively. A "jet" would be a jet drive (impeller driven) lower unit as opposed to a (normal) propeller.

The "rectifier" system on Merc's is totally unregulated. The rectifier simply converts the AC voltage produced by the lighting/charge coils into DC.

So you generally get unregulated DC in the range of 13-16 volts. That is what makes it imperative that you use a marine (or rv, tractor etc - but not automotive) battery which, besides providing storage for the power, acts as a capacitor and regulator for the system.

While I am not an electrical (geek), two of the rectifiers posts take the AC feed from the charge coils. It basically (chops off) the positive and negative peaks of the AC and "rectifies" (splices) them into a single positive DC stream.

The rectified DC is then (available) from the third post.

If you decide to install a conventional marine tachometer, you can take the "signal" feed from either of the posts being fed by the charge coils.

The rectifier can not be used without a battery connected. It will burn itself out and possibly take out other components as well, if the power it rectifies has "nowhere to go".

Merc used to produce a regulator (discontinued now but still many laying around in "old stock" if you look hard enough) for the 25 horse and under "charge" system.

It could NOT be used to charge a battery but instead gave you a (roughly) 12.5 volt stable DC output, at varying amperage, which would allow you to power nav light (or other very small loads) WITHOUT having to carry a battery on board.

I run one myself (regulator) on a 15 horse model. At idle you barely get enough "juice" to get a dim glow from the nav lights, but at (cruise) speed or higher it is excellent for powering the lights.
 
A somewhat delayed thank you again for your latest response on this issue.

Surprised regarding the serial number versus the year sold; maybe a have 2000 year model.

I understand completely on the charging issue as my old Norton Commando had the same issue but I was generally going fast enough to charge the battery.

I approached a Mercury dealer who advised that the part would be $ 115.00; I declined and fitted a 200V PIV, 35A full wave rectifier for $3.75.

Seems to working fine.

The charge regulator you described would be easy to build but I would prefer to maintain the battery for the fish finder as quite often I would drift fish.

Thanks again.
 
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