Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Battery cable question

CarMech1969

CarMech1969

Regular Contributor
G'day fellow mariners!

On the battery cable group, just before it enters the cowl, it has a spot that is as hard as a rock. As if it had been super heated and dipped in solder, and allowed to dry. The rest of the cable feels pliable as one would normally expect.
As far as I know, this is not a new development - it's been like that from when I took ownership of the motor (CJ90TLCC).
Should I be concerned about it? Is this a sign of imminent cable failure?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

TIA!! :cool:
 
I'd suspect degredation of the copper, perhaps you should make a small incision and inspect. If it's okay, you can heat shrink and/or tape. I usually vulcanize over the repair with a product that is no longer available but similar to liquid black tape.
 
I slit the battery cables open.
First pic is positive cable.
Second is negative.
Tried to upload, and no go.
See my Google drive:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1G3D35GFI3_CScpH7EeCiosKmTOegwSsq?usp=sharing
The wires have broken strands (especially the positive cable...no I did not cut them, I was careful).
It is the insulation that has hardened, not the wire itself.
Now I expected to see a bunch of green crusties in there, but there is not.
Anyway, looks like I should probably replace these cables pretty soon.
That's it for now.
'Til next time...
:cool:
 
More on that....
When I first acquired the boat/motor, the R/R was dead shorted and drawing the battery down.
And now, looking at the condition of the battery cable insulation, there is a section where the insulation looks like it has melted from getting really hot.
And the positive/negative cables were not clearly marked. They ARE marked, but not in an obvious way.
Starting to think that somebody crossed the battery cables and cooked the R/R....
Lol :D
 
Sorry I steered you off, I expected some green growth in there too. Still, thanks for the report.
 
No worries my friend. Went and bought some #2 welding cable and made some new cables.
It's now a matter of taking care of the dodgy starter solenoid.
 
UPDATE:

After shopping around online, and seeing that the going rate is about 60-70 Canuckistanian rubles for a starter solenoid...I thought Nah, hold off on that.
Tested the solenoid on the motor today, with the negative lead of a DMM connected to ground, and the positive lead to the starter terminal.
Each time upon attempting to start, the solenoid would click - but 0 volts read on the DMM.
After repeated starting attempts, the moment I got a reading of battery voltage, the starter turned over.
Ah - so my solenoid contacts are pitted, I thought.
I then disassembled the solenoid, and discovered how dead simple it is.
Cleaned up the copper washer that is bonded to the metal core which the electromagnet pulls down on, using a file.
Then cleaned off the pitting on the terminal lugs with a small grindstone on an electric drill.
Had to remove a bit of material off the bottom of the metal core in order to ensure the switch contacts could close all the way.
Reassembled the starter solenoid, and mounted it up.
The starter now hits on every single attempt to crank. Works like new!
I can now save my 65 cent rubles for the next adventure....lol
 
Hah....right. Your dollar has been taking a beating. I have repaired many solenoids just as you described. Good job.
 
Back
Top