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Basic ignition points adjustment question

bigtime_mcalpine

Regular Contributor
Alright, this is I think a pretty basic question but I want to make sure I “get” ignition points.
I’ve seen a few instructional videos were points are adjusted using a continuity tester. You hook it up, make sure it goes from infinite resistance to a value when it crosses timing marks. Makes sense.

I’ve seen other instructional videos where all the person does is measure spacing at each point at high point on crank. Set them to 0.02 (or whatever spec calls for) and then you are done.

What I’m confused about is whether one method is a substitute for the other or whether setting the points is step 1 and then fine tuning with continuity test is step 2.

Thank you for any info you can provide!
 
The 2 methods end up with the same result.----Using a meter gets the best result.-----Points opening at the correct time, with maximum spark.---Plugs firing 180 degrees apart.
 
On the other hand, setting at 0.020 at widest opening is plenty close enough. Your choice. But don't mess around trying to do both unless you are just trying to prove something..
 
On the other hand, setting at 0.020 at widest opening is plenty close enough. Your choice. But don't mess around trying to do both unless you are just trying to prove something..

OK thanks, confirms what I was thinking.

One more related question: is it ok if the connection between stationary part of point and moving part of point is not totally aligned vertically? The spring loaded gizmo's don't seem to go low enough to line up exactly. Was tempted to try to push them down relative to the sleeve to get it exactly right but maybe I'm just being a perfectionalist? Seems to be off by maybe a 1/4 dia of the point itself.
 
Not possible.----With quality parts the point faces line up every time.-----You do have the little wire clip on the post.
 
Not possible.----With quality parts the point faces line up every time.-----You do have the little wire clip on the post.
It's very strange.
1) I purchased OEM parts
2) I had a devil of a time getting points to fit over posts. It was IMPOSSIBLE without drilling the sleeve wider. I didn't have the right sized bit so brought them back to shop for assistance. At shop I tried points from 3 other sets with correct part # - none fit on the posts.
3) shop installed them (not sure how as I was in a hurry)
4) I get home and notice point faces don't quite line up...

This was supposed to be easy...what the heck?

It's the same darned part number for multiple motors for that entire decade: 058148. Mine's a 1974 4hp.
 
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They used those points from a bout 1950 to at least 1988.----That is many years.------Never had an issue installing them when I did this type of work every day !!----Perhaps the post on the magneto plate has a burr / damage for some reason.----
 
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They used those points from a bout 1950 to at least 1988.----That is many years.------Never had an issue installing them when I did this type of work every day !!----Perhaps the post on the magneto plate has a burr / damage for some reason.----

I thought that as well but both posts are same and even once i got it over the top it still went in only with serious persuasion. Very strange. Old sleeves are noticeable wider than new ones also.

I was almost tempted to order another couple of sets from another vendor just to see if another batch was different.
 
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I assume your mention of the point set part number was a typo. It is NOT 058148.... It IS 580148.

The points need to simply slip over that rotate post... and you needed to drill the fiber insulating material out! Contact whoever you purchased them from and return, then purchase the proper points.

Setting the points to coincide with the factory settings:
Align the flywheel key up with the fiber rubbing portion of the points..... now set the points so that a .020 slides thru BUT a .022 will not. It's not a Rocket Science required project.
 
I assume your mention of the point set part number was a typo. It is NOT 058148.... It IS 580148.

The points need to simply slip over that rotate post... and you needed to drill the fiber insulating material out! Contact whoever you purchased them from and return, then purchase the proper points.

Setting the points to coincide with the factory settings:
Align the flywheel key up with the fiber rubbing portion of the points..... now set the points so that a .020 slides thru BUT a .022 will not. It's not a Rocket Science required project.

Correct re: part number. Thanks!
OK, thanks, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going crazy. You guys rock!
 
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