Logo

b89 2000hp johnson no spark

ww2bar

New member
"The engine was hard starting

"The engine was hard starting all summer. I thought it was a fuel problem because the engine would eventually start. Now I have no spark at all (all cylinders). I have been all over the message boards reviewing everybodies comments. I have tried the following.
Jumped red lead from battery to black and yellow wire on selenoid no luck.
Removed Bk/Yl wire from key switch no spark
Checked ohm reading from stator wire 2 sets of Br wires(plug connection) leading into power pack showed reading of .930 on both sets
I however get no readings at all on the 2 sets of 4 wire (A,B,C,and D) plugs from the timer base (I think) into the power pack.
I looked at the stator, black square in the front seems to be leaking or melted a bit.
I do not have a DVA to test voltage. Can it be tested with a regular meter. Should I just get a new timer base and stator it about $600 for both. What additional test should I conduct. Compression on cylinders 85 x 5 and one 70."
 
"That engine must crank over a

"That engine must crank over at least 300 rpms in order for the stator to supply the required AC voltage to the powerpack(s) capacitors. A slow cranking engine resuilts in no spark. If you're okay in this area, take a good look at the two large black coils at the rear portion of the stator.

You might need to remove the flywheel to inspect those two coils properly. If they're oozing out a stickly like substance which is leaking down on the timer base and powerhead, replace the stator.

Double check the timer base readings on high ohm setting. You should obtain a reading between the white wire and the other wires. To not obtain a reading on any of them sort of indicates that perhaps you didn't have the ohm meter connected properly.

Let us know what you find."
 
"I took a look at black coils.

"I took a look at black coils. The two in the rear show some leaking but there is also one in the front that has leaked down. (photo). I checked the timer base connections again and still no readings from white wire to the others.
115225.jpg
115226.jpg
115227.jpg
"
 
"Your picture is too wide, too

"Your picture is too wide, too large for me to view properly. If the large black coils are leaking, replace the stator. You'll need to be the one to determine if they're leaking or not.

Hint.... A picture width of about 600 pixels is about right. Many graphic programs allow one to convert a large picture down."
 
What about no readings on the

What about no readings on the timer base. Should I do the stator and then the timer base if the problem is not fixed or just replace both of them.
 
"I pulled the wheel, stator ha

"I pulled the wheel, stator has in fact melted down onto the timer base. I will be replacing both at the end of the week. Should I go with CDI or OMC?"
 
"Ran into a few problem, snape

"Ran into a few problem, snaped stator bolt. I had to retap. Replaced Stator, timer base and rectifier. Tried starting w/o sucess. checked for spark which was good on all six. I came back the next day w/ portable gas tank and she started right up. Hover it is running quite fast 1300 RPM. Litature that came w/ parts stated that the engine should be retimed after replacement. Never did this before I think I will leave this w/ a pro in the spring.
I replaced all gas lines, filters, and antisiphon valve this summer. I was unable to replace pick up tube in take but I inspected it by removing the sender unit. It was not clogged and looked clean. I have a clear racor filter which looked good. I don't know if its the gas that may have separated or the line itself. Primer bulb did not feel right from the internal tank. Thanks for all the help"
 
Back
Top