Logo

b87 GT150 issues

briansgi

New member
"Guys, I have a 1987 Ranger 37

"Guys, I have a 1987 Ranger 373 with a Johnson GT150. I rarely use the boat, this spring the steering froze up due to lack of use. I decided to fix that issue and today I cleaned up the boat and when I turn the key I get absolutely nothing, no click, no nothing. The main breaker is ok, I can trim the motor up/down. I made sure my lanyard was plugged in, but still nothing. I checked the fuses on the side panel but I don't think any of those have anything to do with the ignition. When I push in the key (engages the choke), I hear it working. Is there perhaps another fuse somewhere? I pulled the ignition switch out from the console and tried jumping the wires to bypass the switch to see if that was the problem. Now I get no trim up/down and the choke functionality is no longer working. I guess that wasn't such a good idea. I don't have a service manual so I'm at a loss. I guess I should by pass the lanyard switch to verify that's not the problem. Is there some switches or a switch in the electrical section in the outboard somewhere? I know the battery is good, all accessories work fine.

BTW, I'm going to sell this boat/trailer, I'm the original owner. What should I ask for it, it's been used very little, motor probably has only 75 hours on it and I'm the original owner."
 
"the 'lanyard',is kill

"the 'lanyard',is kill only,nothing to do w/cranking
there is a fuse holder,close to start solenoid....ck,.. that fuse is good."
 
"Had the same problem just a f

"Had the same problem just a few weeks ago . put on new solenoid and that wrked for about 3 days . got another one then decided to clean contact points on all electrical connections . Spray the ignition wires and wiring harness with electrical parts cleaner (Gunk) where it connects , let dry and if thats the problem like I had . its ould fire right up. I have not had any more problems with my ignition since."
 
"Any idea how many fuses are i

"Any idea how many fuses are inside the motor cover? Anyone have a wiring diagram for this outboard? The trim was working and also the choke was working, but after I tried shorting the starter switch on the console, it sparked and now those two things are no longer working. Perhaps multiple fuses may be blown now??"
 
"As JWB states in not so many

"As JWB states in not so many words, there is but one power fuse that leads from the battery to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch. It is located in one of the smaller wires leading from the starter solenoid. In all probability, you blew it messing with the switch.

In the START position of the key switch, 12 volts is applied from the "B" (battery) terminal of the ignition switch to the "S" (solenoid) terminal of the ignition switch.

Either you have a faulty battery, a good battery in a discharged condition, loose cables, or tight but dirty cables, all cabl;es of which pertain to the electric starter system.

Remove and clean all cable connections including the powerhead ground battery terminals, solenoid, etc, making sure to clean the component to which they attach.

You may also have a misadjusted safety switch and if so, that may show up simply by jiggling the throttle handle around somewhat at the neutral position.

Let us know what you find.

When time permits, visit my eBay store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
My guess would be starter sole

My guess would be starter solenoid but now you may have other issues caused by playing with wires under the dash. you may have another fuse next to the battery on the smaller cable coming off the Positive terminal that could have blown check that also. and than test voltage at the solenoid small wire should have 12 volts when starter switch is engaged. your safety switch will not stop the engine from cranking just running it kills the power to the coils preventing it from starting or running not cranking over.
 
"ok..in my thinking,doug and j

"ok..in my thinking,doug and joe ,are talking about 2 diff safety switches.....the one in control box,WILL keep u fr cranking,thats its purpose,......the lanyard/rope doohickey,kills the ign....u can crank all day,w/it pulled."
 
"Ok, I have an update. I repl

"Ok, I have an update. I replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment, that solved the trim issue so now it's working and I can hear my choke engaging too. But, still no engine crank. I checked all my connections, I've had the battery charger on the battery for two days so I believe the battery is sufficiently charged. Besides, the trim/tilt move the motor up/down as fast as normal.

I then took my volt meter and connected across the two small lugs on the solenoid, at least I think it's what you call the solenoid. When I move the key all the way clockwise, such as to start the engine, my volt meter registers 12 volts. I do the same thing on the two large spade lugs on the starter but never get any voltage to it.

Another thing, I can hear a faint sound, much like a relay closing, when I let loose of the key when it's already over fully clockwise. I don't hear that sound when I'm moving it to the start position, only when I let loose of it AFTER it's been in the start position. Not sure what that means. So do I have a bad solenoid? I guess we can't say the starter is bad since I never see 12 volts on the starter lugs, correct?"
 
Does the starter crank when yo

Does the starter crank when you jump direct to it with a set of boosters?????
 
I haven't tried that. I a

I haven't tried that. I assume it's as simple as the neg lead to the negative post on the starter and the positive lead from the battery to the pos post on the starter? If the starter kicks in then I assume that points to the solenoid?
 
"Two easy tests. Look at the

"Two easy tests. Look at the two small lugs on the solenoid. One is the ground to the block, the other goes, indirectly, to the start position on the keyswitch. Then look at the two large lugs. One goes to the starter, the other indirectly to the battery. Most mechanics jumper the starter lug to the 12V lug. If motor turns, solenoid is good. If it does not, then you jumper the two large lugs together. If it then turns, you have a bad solenoid. If it still does not turn, you have a starter issue. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING ANY OF THIS. SHORTS TO GROUND, OR SPINNING FLYWHEELS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS!"
 
"So jumper one of the two lugs

"So jumper one of the two lugs on the starter to the pos 12 volt on the battery?? There are two large lugs on the starter, one goes to ground I'm assuming, and the other has to go to one of the two large lugs on the solenoid. So you're saying jumper the non ground lug on the starter to the pos of the battery?"
 
"On the second part of your in

"On the second part of your instructions you state to jumper the two large lugs together, are you referring to the two large lugs on the solenoid or on the starter? I appreciate your help!!"
 
"Ok, so I jumped pos from batt

"Ok, so I jumped pos from battery directly to the pos lug on the starter and it turned over with no problem, so I'll order a new solenoid. Thanks for all the help!!"
 
Back
Top