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Are there any marine salvage yards in Seattle area any more?

D

Dimlit Chris

New member
I have been looking for Volvo AQ120B parts for a month now and just can't find any place to get used parts. Does anyone know of any marine salvage yards who have survived? Or are there any individuals out there who have accumulated stuff but don't advertise?
I'm north of Seattle and if need be can go as far as Bellingham if absolutely necessary.

Thanks, Chris
 
Dimlit Chris said:
I have been looking for Volvo AQ120B parts for a month now and just can't find any place to get used parts. Does anyone know of any marine salvage yards who have survived? Or are there any individuals out there who have accumulated stuff but don't advertise?
I'm north of Seattle and if need be can go as far as Bellingham if absolutely necessary.

Thanks, Chris
Click to expand...

Yep, BoatDoc55 makes a good point. I'm about 45 minutes north from you. I've got some odds and ends for an AQ125, AQ140, same motor basically as your AQ120.
I believe many of the parts are interchangeable for you. Let us know what you want, and someone here probably has it or knows where it can be found.
 
Great! Things are looking up.
I am pretty sure I am going to need all 3 timing belt gears/pulleys and I may need a block. Oh the starter solenoid is missing also.
The motor had been rebuilt and had less than 100 hrs on it when they decided to replace the floor. But after that got done it sat for almost 3 yrs and the #4 cyl accumulated a bunch of water causing what may be catastrophic galling. Funny thing is, if it wouldn't have been rebuilt the water would have passed right by the rings and the damage would have been much less.

This is my 1st boat and it may end up as a labor of love but I am severely limited as to the amount of money I can put in it because of my disability. So if anyone has any fantastic cost saving ideas I am all ears.
 
Dimlit Chris said:
Great! Things are looking up.
I am pretty sure I am going to need all 3 timing belt gears/pulleys and I may need a block. Oh the starter solenoid is missing also.
The motor had been rebuilt and had less than 100 hrs on it when they decided to replace the floor. But after that got done it sat for almost 3 yrs and the #4 cyl accumulated a bunch of water causing what may be catastrophic galling. Funny thing is, if it wouldn't have been rebuilt the water would have passed right by the rings and the damage would have been much less.

This is my 1st boat and it may end up as a labor of love but I am severely limited as to the amount of money I can put in it because of my disability. So if anyone has any fantastic cost saving ideas I am all ears.
Click to expand...

Hi Chris,

Where to start? First off, who "rebuilt the motor"? Been down that road before. Sometimes the "rebuild" is a set of rings and maybe some bearings, nothing done properly, just enough to get it going. If it was a complete, professional rebuild you could try pulling #4 piston and see what you find. If everything else is good inside it's possible you could get by with cleaning it up with a hone and new rings--perhaps a new piston. That's one path.
Another thing to consider is you can get a good used B21 car motor from a wrecking yard or maybe a rebuilt short block. That's another path. The motor/block is essentially the same, pulleys, etc.. The cam is different however--bu that could be swapped out along with the "marine-ized stuff" heat exchanger, water pumps, etc.. . So that's another path you could consider.
IF funds are limited, you might think long and hard an maybe even cut your loses. After the motor, you may have hull problems, perhaps a rotting transom or stringers (all hidden from view). If you have to rebuild your boat from the inside out, that is a LOT of work and money. Just consider it.

How is the sterndrive? How are the bearings and seals and U-joints, bellows, hose fittings, etc. etc. etc...

Sometimes the wiser move is to part the boat out and buy one that's running and take it for a long test drive and maybe have a marine mech look it over for you. Hard to say without taking a long hard look at it in person.
Just some quick suggestions here. Others can fill in the gaps. I think most of us have been where you are.
The learning never stops!:eek:
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Once you open that can of worms for sure it can get real spendy. I was just going to replace the head and exhaust maniufold on my AQ131 and ended up with new pistons different block and crank. The deck is rotten and getting ready to open up that can. If your like me I cant stop once I get going I`m thinking roll and tuck:)
Click to expand...


If the "deck is rotten" there's a very good chance that all the flotation foam under the deck (Installed at the factory) is soaked with water. That tends to add a LOT of weight to the boat, affecting performance AND causing rot in any of the wooden members under there (Stringers, transom).

Unless you live in drought stricken California, and can open it all up to a few months of hot, dry weather, then you could be looking at ripping ALL the wet expanded polyurethane foam out of there-- down to the fiberglass. Then, you may find some compromised stringers (usually two long wooden 2" thick planks that act like an interior "spine" for the boat). Then perhaps some rot in the transom down in the bottom of the hull, hidden behind the motor...and you can see how things might go.
Just saying, not that I know anything about such things...:rolleyes:
Take a LONG look at the whole picture, before you commit to your dream of restoring this boat. Try to keep the emotions out of it. Like that old saying, "Count the cost".
Some used boats are sort of like picking a girlfriend. She might look pretty good on the outside but maybe she has some serious hidden flaws and tends to be "high maintenance". Either way, you have to pay to play!
That said, good folks restore boats all the time. Gluttons for punishment...:eek:
 
Thank you very much for the honest information. The biggest thing I took from the responses is to keep the emotions out of it. I actually caught myself thinking emotionally and not rationally yesterday. As perfect as this boat would be for what I want out of a boat, right now it may be a little more than I want to chew on. I got the boat from a long time mechanic who gave it to his granddaughter after going all the way through the motor and outdrive. The thing needed some of the wood replaced and it didn't get completed all the way and they (the grandkids) lost interest so grand dad took it back before it was lost completely. He said that he got all the bad wood out of the thing before he put down new flooring but I didn't think to ask about the foam cores. would it be a good idea to open up one or 2 of the cores and check to see if the foam is saturated?

Question: What would an acceptable amount of weight gain?

I found all the original specs on the boat from Bayliner which has the weight before motor and I also found the weight of the motor and outdrive so I can come up with a real good idea of what I should see but I don't have any idea what the trailer weighs but as soon as I find that out I can head down to the scales. Until I do that I don't think I'm going to lay down any more cash.
 
Chris,

Since I live only about 35 miles north of you, how about I drop by your place? Since you're a "first time" boat owner, I might be able to save you some grief. I've completely rebuilt my current boat from the inside out, right down to the bare fiberglass (about 8 years ago). If I get a good look at what you've got, I can offer some hard won advice and guidance.
It may not be as bad as I envision.

Either way, I'll give you an honest opinion.
There's too many "moving parts" and unknowns from reading the posts. I think I can do much more for you by having a first-hand look.
If that sounds good, send me a PM with your address or phone and we'll figure something out. I think I've got some time tomorrow.
 
Chris,

Something else just occurred to me. Two things: 1) 100 hrs on the rebuilt motor AND 2) Water in #4 cylinder.
That leads me to believe that PERHAPS the previous owner used an exhaust bellows without the "flapper" inside. If you've got a 280 outdrive the "flapper" is needed to keep water from getting up the exhaust and into #4 etc..
Bellows can be bought with flapper or not. Without it, water can (might, maybe) get up the exhaust while backing up (especially backing up quickly). That MAY be why the boat was parked and sitting for so long.
Something to ponder. If the engine cover was on the entire time and spark arrestors (like air cleaners) were in place, even if parked outside, it would be hard for water to find it's way inside a cylinder.
 
Oh no. they had removed the motor shroud when replacing the floor and for some reason the plastic shield that attaches to the top of the carb was up in the glove box and then who knows when but they taped a ziplock bag over the carb.
When I pulled the head the intake valve was and still is wide open(I didn't rotate it shut because no matter what one of them is going to be open). From the cleanliness of everything you can just tell by looking the guy serviced it regularly. He even replaced the u-joint when he was inside and gave me the one he took out and truth be told it didn't really need to be replaced but he said that he did it because he was that deep anyway so what's a few more bucks. I'm going up to talk to him tomorrow and ask the questions I didn't know to ask when I decided to buy it.
Oh and by the way I got the whole thing including the trailer for $175 so there is no way I'll lose money on the deal. as a matter of fact even if I just part out the motor and outdrive I can triple my money and still have a sweet trailer.
 
Chris,
THAT would explain how water got inside the motor! It pains me to see boats sitting out in all kinds of weather, unprotected like that. I also went off on the "rotten deck" and soaked flotation foam before I realized that "kimcrwbr1" made that post--not you. But he made some good points however. I just read too fast and thought your boat had that particular problem.
Perhaps your's does, but at present, I'd say that's an unknown. As long as the deck was done properly (Starting with dry flotation foam, and good stringers, transom), proper plywood for the deck, fiberglass and epoxy plus some good deck paint, and the boat parked with the stern down and the drain plug out--then you should be okay.

Well, for $175 you cannot go wrong. Just take it slow and easy, especially if money is limited. Perhaps the best guy to ask about the water soaked #4 cylinder--and how to make it right-- would be the guy who rebuilt it. As long as he's a good mechanic and knows his stuff, maybe he could be persuaded to assist in getting it running again? Cash, swap, trade, first-born, beg...:)Doesn't hurt to ask...
 
Chris, the OHC 4 is somewhat expensive to over-haul when doing it correctly.
I would rather see you look for a good runner.
Any of the OHC 4s will work.


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Am looking for Marine engine replacement for 4.3L Mercrusier out of a 2005 Bayliner 185. Anyone know where I can find at a reasonable price?
 
4.3L said:
Am looking for Marine engine replacement for 4.3L Mercrusier out of a 2005 Bayliner 185. Anyone know where I can find at a reasonable price?
Click to expand...
Are you looking for a complete Bobtail drop in replacement or a long block

Try Michigan Motorz they have new base engines remans and complete bobtails
 
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