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aq145a part numbers

87point2psi

87point2psi

Member
I know these numbers have been posted many times here, but for the life of me I cant find them. Im looking for a aftermarket part number for a PDS bearing and seals, also both u-joints. From what I understand, my AQ145a has a single bearing and can be changed without removing the engine? If someone knows where the thread that has the procedure on swapping out this bearing is hiding, would really appreciate it!
Thanks;)
 
The bearings and seals are industry standard that Volvo Penta simply re-packages with their own asigned part numbers on the box.

Yes...... all of the OHC 4's use a single bearing PDS that can be changed without the need to remove the engine.
You will need to drain the gear oil (30W engine oil) and remove the transmission ONLY.
You'll need 4 new O-rings when going back together.
If the oil is clean and is free from metallic debris, it can be reused without issue.

The bearing should be an industry standard 6206.
The 6206 is an open bearing, whereas the 6206-2RS is the same bearing but it is sealed.
The open bearing will accept future grease via the grease port/fitting on the flywheel cover.


The universal drive shaft bearing crosses can be the Spicer 5-1306X. These are of high quality and are a direct replacement with the grease fitting in the apex of the cross (where it should be).
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Thank you! I will track down theses bearings and crosses today and get ready to tackle this task. Looks like ill have to hit up Volvo for new O rings. I read somewhere( in the thread i cant find) that the cavity is to be filled with grease after installing bearing and that one of the seals goes in backwards so that it dosent blow out while being greased? Is that the forward seal or aft? Or did i misunderstand this? Anyone have a cross reference number for the seals? Thank you again for being so quick on replying!
 
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87point2psi said:
............. I read somewhere( in the thread i cant find) that the cavity is to be filled with grease after installing bearing and that one of the seals goes in backwards so that it dosent blow out while being greased? Is that the forward seal or aft? Or did i misunderstand this? Anyone have a cross reference number for the seals? Thank you again for being so quick on replying!
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Yes, if the cavity is not pre-filled, then we'll never know just how much grease to add in order for it to reach the roller cage.
Whereas if you pre-fill the cavity, all future grease will immediately reach the roller cage during servicing.

Be sure to grease this with the engine running at idle speed.

As for the 35x62x7mm seal..... it will install with the lip and tension spring being visible from AFT.
The FWD seal installs conventionally. (we want this seal to hold grease in)


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Picked up u-joints today, had to cross reference the spicers as the shop didnt carry them, ended up with moogs. Found the bearing and seals at a local bearing vendor,40 bucks, german.
Any specific grease type for packing?
I managed to find another running complete AQ145 on craigslist a couple months back, bought it for 200 bucks, it gave me a complete set of spares like water pumps,starter etc, pulled the shaft out of that FWC today for practice, didnt come out that easy but managed to get it out, did break one of the snap rings tho.At least now i know what im in for when I do the one in my boat, hope it comes out a little easier.
 
I use a good quality grease for the PDS bearing(s)......... not the green marine wheel bearing grease.
I pre-fill the cavity prior to installing the AFT seal. I install the AFT seal only upon seeing grease exit the ball cage.

As for the large snap rings...... you'll find that a looooooong needle-nose pliers (slightly modified) works better than any other tool.
......carefully grind the tips so that they will fit into the snap ring eyelets.
......gently tweak the tips inwards as prevent them from slipping out of the eyelets.
 
Thank you Ricardo, I did in fact modify my long needle-nose pliars to get at the snap rings,after grinding the ends and bending them inwards a bit, the tips kept bending back straight, so i heated then red hot with a torch and quickly quenched them in oil to re-harden them, after that they worked great! I actually broke the small snap ring that holds the bearing on the shaft. Do the mentioned o-rings need to be replaced or can they be reused if they appear in good shape??
 
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O-ring material reacts similar to seawater pump impellers and/or drive shaft bellows. Once the material has been compressed into, or formed into, a certain position for a long time, the material takes what we call a "set".

General rule: O-rings are intended for a 1-time-use only. They should always be replaced when any O-ring sealed components have been disassembled and are about to be re-assembled.

It's just not worth it if trying to save a few dollars!



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Follow up:
Finally got around to getting this done today, had to wait for o-rings etc to come in.
I would like to say thank you Ricardo for the advice on how to go about getting this done!
Pulled the tranny, found water in the bellows and 2 rusty u-joints, a hole in the lower forward part of the bellows that I hadnt noticed until I removed the bellows. the U-joints were still functional but the forward one was quite stiff and upon removal found to be bone dry of grease. I changed out both u-joints without removing the yoke from the transmission.after that was done, I moved on to the PDS bearing, once i got the rear seal removed, I could see that everything was in good shape considering the hole in the bellows, there was no water forward of the seal and the bearing looked to be in good condition.....Of course I swapped out the bearing anyways since I had come that far and had a brand newie in my pocket...things went pretty much as read about here, couldnt get the shaft out after snap rings were removed, so a good pair of vice grips with a chain through the jaws ala homemade slide hammer got it out in a few hits, I know this is a nightmare on some boats if its really corroded in there, im lucky mine came out without too much hassle. Everything went back together as advertised, new o-rings all around.Took boat out for a run and worked great.

Did the timing belt today as well,and ill replace the exhaust manifold tomorrow since the heat exchanger is already off.

A couple things to be noted though.. the rear seal was facing forward on both my boat,and the spare FWC i had that I practiced on before I tackled the one in the boat. Does Volvo install them this way and turning the seal around is a modification? Just wondering because both the ones I did were in spring forward.I installed mine with the spring facing rearward so that the grease can push through if it has to.
Also....How the hell do you get that helmut pin out if it has 2 bolts but NO jack screw holes??? I ended up removing the steering helmut and it was a pain in the ass to get the bolts back in! Im sure this is not the last time im going to be in there so I would love to know the secret to this!!
 
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87point2psi said:
Follow up:
Finally got around to getting this done today, had to wait for o-rings etc to come in.
I would like to say thank you Ricardo for the advice on how to go about getting this done!
You are very welcome!

Pulled the tranny, found water in the bellows and 2 rusty u-joints, a hole in the lower forward part of the bellows that I hadnt noticed until I removed the bellows. the U-joints were still functional but the forward one was quite stiff and upon removal found to be bone dry of grease. I changed out both u-joints without removing the yoke from the transmission.after that was done, I moved on to the PDS bearing, once i got the rear seal removed, I could see that everything was in good shape considering the hole in the bellows, there was no water forward of the seal and the bearing looked to be in good condition.....Of course I swapped out the bearing anyways since I had come that far and had a brand newie in my pocket
You'll never know how wise that decision was!

...things went pretty much as read about here, couldnt get the shaft out after snap rings were removed, so a good pair of vice grips with a chain through the jaws ala homemade slide hammer got it out in a few hits, I know this is a nightmare on some boats if its really corroded in there, im lucky mine came out without too much hassle. Everything went back together as advertised, new o-rings all around.Took boat out for a run and worked great.
Excellent!

Did the timing belt today as well, and ill replace the exhaust manifold tomorrow since the heat exchanger is already off.

A couple things to be noted though.. the rear seal was facing forward on both my boat, and the spare FWC i had that I practiced on before I tackled the one in the boat. Does Volvo install them this way and turning the seal around is a modification?
No and No!
The factory would have installed this seal as I described.


Just wondering because both the ones I did were in spring forward.I installed mine with the spring facing rearward so that the grease can push through if it has to.
Correct!

Also....How the hell do you get that helmut pin out if it has 2 bolts but NO jack screw holes??? I ended up removing the steering helmut and it was a pain in the ass to get the bolts back in! Im sure this is not the last time im going to be in there so I would love to know the secret to this!!
If the jack screw threads are not there, it can be a PITA. You can replace the helmet pin with the style that has the two jack threads.

Make sure that the two cap screws are of the correct length. Too long, and they will break through the aluminum clamping collar allowing water intrusion.
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