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aq140a R&R&R

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bob61

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I striped the oil pan bolt threads. Leaks like a well

Ok Ill need to pull the motor No big deal.

Q is can i leave the bellhousing on OD? I have lot of forward room
Ill remove the upper gear on OD so the input shaft will be free to spin.
 
drill.jpgActually the threads can be repaired in place. Get an angle drill and drill and tap. You can remove the motor with out taking the drive apart. Supposed to be easier if it's apart.I've found it's a pain if the boats a small one. That way you can redo the bearings and seals while your at it.
 
bob61 said:
I striped the oil pan bolt threads. Leaks like a well

Ok Ill need to pull the motor No big deal.

Q is can i leave the bellhousing on OD? I have lot of forward room
Ill remove the upper gear on OD so the input shaft will be free to spin.
Click to expand...
Bob, this engine is very simple and easy to remove........... and in particular if it's cantilever hung.

Yes...... you can separate the engine from the Flywheel Cover, leaving the F/C still attached to the Transom Shield.
No need to remove the transmission for this. The shaft will turn as required when you re-install.

While the engine is out, you'll have a much better oportunity to correct these threads.
I'd not recommend attempting to do this with the engine in place!
One Goof and you'll be pulling the engine anyway, not only to correct the threads, but to correct the Goof Up!


Now, if you were to also pull the transmission, you'll have access to the PDS (primary drive shaft) so that it can be removed for bearing/seal replacement.
If no history of this being replace recently, I'd strongly encourage you to do this.

At the same time, you can replace the drive shaft bellows, examine the bearing crosses, etc.
Watch for the shims that will directly underneath the transmission. These must go back in as they were!

The cost to R&R the transmission will be a bit of your labor, four new O-rings, and fresh drive gear oil.



.
 
Thank you gentlemen

Pulled the motor & bellhousing with it.
Got the pan off will be welding a pipe fitting to the pan to a new oil drain system.

Elbow to port side, strait pipe, elbow up, strait pipe to above oil level, cap.

Oil change time. remove cap insert oil sucker remove oil.

When it comes to install is there anything I should know about, or is it strait forward.
Referring to Bellhousing alinement?
Ill do a dry run first bellbousing only no motor see how that works out. Then remove BH put BH on motor and do a final.

Other than that I think Im OK

Thank You
 
bob61 said:
Got the pan off will be welding a pipe fitting to the pan to a new oil drain system.


When it comes to install is there anything I should know about, or is it strait forward.
Referring to Bellhousing alinement?
Ill do a dry run first bellbousing only no motor see how that works out. Then remove BH put BH on motor and do a final.

Other than that I think Im OK
Click to expand...
Bob, I've done the same on my twin SBC's. I used a 1/2" pipe coupler split in half to gain the same taper on each piece.
I used 1/2" SAE oil hose, threaded SAE hose fitting into oil pan TPT.
I use the Tempo Oil Boy extractor.... and it works great.


Bob, you are refering to the Flywheel Cover, correct? (bell housing is an automotive term).
If so, yes, there will be an initial alignment via triangulation between the 6 flat areas (3 on transom shield, and 3 at F/C)
There will also be a concern for Port/Stbd rotation, in that the "torque" trunion must align, as well as the exhaust manifold must align with the down tube.

I'd suggest that you re-assemble the engine with the F/C attached, and install as a unit.
Leave the clamping collar loose until all aligns.

Replace at minimum the inboard rubber cushion.... they seldom go second time around.
This one provides the water seal.


.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Bob, I've done the same on my twin SBC's. I used a 1/2" pipe coupler split in half to gain the same taper on each piece.
I used 1/2" SAE oil hose, threaded SAE hose fitting into oil pan TPT.
I use the Tempo Oil Boy extractor.... and it works great.


Bob, you are refering to the Flywheel Cover, correct? (bell housing is an automotive term).
If so, yes, there will be an initial alignment via triangulation between the 6 flat areas (3 on transom shield, and 3 at F/C)
There will also be a concern for Port/Stbd rotation, in that the "torque" trunion must align, as well as the exhaust manifold must align with the down tube.

I'd suggest that you re-assemble the engine with the F/C attached, and install as a unit.
Leave the clamping collar loose until all aligns.

Replace at minimum the inboard rubber cushion.... they seldom go second time around.
This one provides the water seal.


.
Click to expand...

Rick

I like the your hose than better than my pipe fittings WIN WIN WIN. Thank you.

Tempo Oil Boy is that vacuum? Looks like it is.

Alignment points is there a set measurement in between the flat spots. ( like a spark plug gap) I can look a another boat if needed,, which I probably will.
 
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