Logo
FULL SITE MENU

AQ131D volvo penta still wonbt start

R

rdengil1

Contributing Member
"Ok, see my other posts. I ch

"Ok, see my other posts. I changed the coil, checked the fuel pump. all work, replaced numerous electronics still won't start. I checked the ignition switch, got a light on the b side, no light on the S side of the switch. Maybe I need to replace? Also, if the would the neutral safety switch not let the S side of the ignition swithc light up or would it do it anyway? I used a test light to check the ignition switch but haven't tested the neutral switch? I even went directly to the + on the battery to the + on the coil still nothing. turns over, just wont start, yes there is spark too"
 
"The S is for Start, you only

"The S is for Start, you only have power on that terminal when you are cranking. So if the engine is turning, you get power to that terminal.

If it does not start and there is spark, either the timing belt is off one notch or more, the ignition timing is off, or there is no fuel reaching the carb.

Have you checked that the firing order of the ignition leads is the correct one? That is, is every ignition lead going to the correct spark plug from the distributor? The leads are installed 1-3-4-2 clockwise on the distributor cap."
 
"So the key has to actually be

"So the key has to actually be turned all the way on to crank not just on? If so, I was misled by another response I had. Also, my timing is good, no issues there, the boat worked one day and not the next, just been trying to get it to run. It starts intermittently then stops and won't start again. Fuel pump and carb are fine, already tested those, already checked compression. This whole thing started after I removed the exhaust manifold to clean out the ports at the water discharge end. Put it back on and now it won't start. New coil, condenser points, batter, alternator rebuilt, drained all the fuel and refilled, changed filter, checked fuel pump and lines, I don't know what else to check, I have spark at the plugs, spark at the coil, just won't start."
 
"Ralph, if timing is good, the

"Ralph, if timing is good, there is gas and there is compression, it is also possible that the engine is full of too rich of a fuel/air mixture to support ignition. Try putting the throttle at around 3/4 and crank until it starts but no more than for 10 seconds or so (you don't want to burn the starter). When (if) it starts, bring the throttle quickly back to idle so that the engine does not race."
 
I have checked everything I ca

I have checked everything I can find no luck. Could the 40 amp circuit breaker be bad? My relay is fine according to the test procedure and the ignition switch is also good. Another thing could the tachometer be bad causing the engine not to fire?
 
"Replaced plugs, coil, condens

"Replaced plugs, coil, condenser, points, checked ignition switch, tested cap and rotor, compression, new battery, checked relay. I have no idea what is happening."
 
"Further "EL's" po

"Further "EL's" post..."Have you checked that the firing order of the ignition leads is the correct one?.."

There are two factors to proper firing order.
1) Is #1 timed to #1. To do this remove spark plug #1. Put your finger over the spark plug hole. Nudge the engine on the starter until the piston for #1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke...i.e., when you feel air pushing your finger off the plug hole... Trace the wire from that plug back to the distributor, remove cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at that connection on the cap. I once had a friend who had the correct order but was 180 degrees off.
2) If this is OK, then crank engine and note direction of rotation of the rotor. Is the next cap connection to cylinder #3?... (thence to 4 and 2, in order.)

BTW... A remote start switch is a good investment...Any auto store will have them."
 
"Ok, so I ran through all the

"Ok, so I ran through all the checks posted tested everything again, all good, except where I had 120psi compression across all 4 cylinders, today I have 0. Obviously it won't start without compression. So after replacing all the electronics and checking all the fuel, what are the compression issues, is there anything that would cause no compression, meaning electrical or is it all mechanical. How difficult is this job, is it a head gasket maybe leaking? or does it sound like valves and things in the cylinder, or if the timing is off, would that cause it. My point is what should I check before removing the cylinder head for repair. If removed what do I repair. Please take time to explain. Thanks. I really appreciate the help. Dennis"
 
"Crank turns, timing belt is n

"Crank turns, timing belt is new and was replaced without disturbing the original timing, boat ran fine for two months before I removed the exhaust manifold to clean out the ports, then it started doing this. I tested the compression the other day and it was 120 on all 4, today, after testing the relay and ignition switch again, it read zero on all 4 the gauge is new as well."
 
Can someone tell me a the righ

Can someone tell me a the right way to compression check the cylinders? remove all plugs or one at atime?
 
"It is virtually impossible to

"It is virtually impossible to have ZERO compression on all cylinders...unless the cam stopped turning at the exact point when all cylinders have at least one valve at least partially open.

Pull all the plugs and crank the engine holding your finger over one of the spark plug holes. You should feel compression.. If you do, gauge died, if not as "El" suggested, belt is off or busted.

BTW... "Changed without disturbing the original timing"... Yes, but did you check the cam/belt timing after you replaced the belt?"
 
"check. I just checked for sp

"check. I just checked for spark again since its dark out, nice blue spark. I know it is sparking at the plug at least. Tomorrow I will take out all 4 and test the compression again and post my findings. If it is no compression, what should I do? My point again would be to fix what I can without removing the head, if the head needs to come off, then I will do that as well, just want to avoid it if it isn't necessary yet. i.e. more testing to be sure. Thanks Dennis"
 
"belt is on, I only removed on

"belt is on, I only removed one plug at atime, will retest tomorrow. As for the belt, I had some parts removed for cleaning and maintenance. I asked that since I had easy access to the timing belt should I replace it, it wasn't worn out, just had an opportunity to make a new belt swap, the guy told me if the cam and crank were not disturbed to slip off the old and slip on the new belt. I did this and the boat ran fine with no issues for over two months, then I took off the manifold (exhaust) to clean and this started. What do you mean cam/belt timing. I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks for your input. Dennis"
 
"Well I removed all plugs, che

"Well I removed all plugs, checked compression again and zero still, guage is good. Used my finger over the spark holes and cranked engine by hand with socket, my finger got sucked in but not blown back out. Tried this numerous times, no not enough pressure coming out of the hole. Not sure what could be causing this, but I know it is now not an electrical problem."
 
"Ralph, the most likely case i

"Ralph, the most likely case is that the timing belt has slipped and it has to be repositioned. If I were you I would replace it with a new one, same as the belt tensioner and possibly the timing gears if they are pitted. If you don't know how to do it, search some old posts as this has been discussed several times. Alternatively, get a copy of the Seloc (1968-1991) or Clymer (1968-1993) repair manuals for Volvo Penta. Either book describes the process in detail.

Yes, you can use a cylinder head from another "same" Volvo engine (either automotive or marine), but you may likely have to reuse your current camshaft."
 
"I have a workshop manual, goi

"I have a workshop manual, going to take the timing belt off tomorrow and reset the cam and crank the reinstall belt with the markings on the belt. Belt is only 2 months old, like I said previously, the boat ran fine from Jan to March then I removed the exhaust manifold, reinstalled it and it ran good on muffs, then went to go out, wouldn't start, fired on occasion and now nothing. I will recheck the timing. Any idea on which volvo (car) the cylinder head would be coming off? Also, why would the cam need to be removed? Thanks. for you help. Dennis"
 
"If you have an AQ131D, the en

"If you have an AQ131D, the engine block is a B230, and the head from a 1985-1993 244 Volvo car should fit.

The car cams are normally designed for speed, not for torque. Your engine does have an A camshaft, Volvo part 1336767-7. Don't try to use a car cam on it with a different profile, or (depending on the type of wrong cam you choose) your boat may not even go on the plane."
 
"Well I'm back to where I

"Well I'm back to where I was a few days ago. I took the timing belt off, realigned the marks and installed the belt with the marks on the belt lining up with the marks on the pulleys. Followed the manual Don told me to download, the compression is great 130-135 on all 4 so now I have the compression back. Also have the spark at the plugs, but the boat still won't fire. As far as I can tell the fuel system is good, when I dump the gas filter, then start it, the gas comes right from the tank to the filter quickly. Haven't checked the carb today, but last week, I would push the throttle back and forth and it would squirt gas. Will recheck that tomorrow. Anyway, the source of the belt slipping is my next concern. I know the belt was properly installed or at least it was on without disturbing the timing when it was running, what I noticed today was that as the engine turned over, a few times it jerked backwards (battery I believe is almost dead, recharging). I think this is how the belt slipped leaving me with no compression. I am certain it is timed correctly, as I ensured every mark was right where is should be and the belt as well. Any ideas on why it might jerk backwards? Thanks for the help with the compression. I have a feeling I will be back in the engine again. Dennis"
 
"Now you have to set the basic

"Now you have to set the basic ignition timing, make sure the distributor is not 180º off, and make sure that every spark plug wire leaving the distributor goes to the correct spark plug."
 
"Is there something to tell me

"Is there something to tell me what to check on the distributor, I already know the wires are correct. my wires only reach the correct plug from the cap, however, I will double check the cap end to ensure they are where they belong. How do I check the distributor? This hasn't been removed at all or played with. Thanks again;."
 
"Try this:

1) remove th

"Try this:

1) remove the distributor; 2) put cylinder number one in TDC at the end of the compression stroke (make sure the marks on the casing and crankshaft pulley do line-up); 3) Place the distributor above the housing, align the rotor towards number one cylinder terminal in the distributor cap, then back the rotor clockwise 1/8 of a turn; 4) Slide the distributor into the engine, but do not tighten the hold down clamp bolt; 5) Try to start the engine; if it does not start, rotate the distributor a bit clockwise or counterclockwise until you reach a point where the engine will start. You can then adjust the ignition timing with the help of a timing light."
 
"So undo the hold down bolt an

"So undo the hold down bolt and actually lift it out of the block? If that is correct, I'll give it a go tomorrow. What have I got to lose, it won't start anyway. Anything else it could be? What about the circuit breaker (40 amp) on the side of the block near the fuel pump? Could that keep it from starting or is that for the starter/relay? thanks again. I'd buy you a beer if you were in Va bch."
 
"If you got spark, then the 40

"If you got spark, then the 40 A breaker is fine. However, I thought that the breaker was located by the distributor, aft side of the engine, by the ignition coil.

Thanks for the beer offer
thumbs_up.gif
. Since I am not in the VA Beach area, just drink a couple to my health once you have managed to start your rebellious engine. "
 
Back
Top