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AQ131A starting problem and fuses

"Hello all,

I've got a


"Hello all,

I've got a 19' Bayliner Capri with an AQ131A/275 pushing it through the water. I lost electrical power the other day after changing out the ignition relay. Turns out it was a blown fuse under the dash. The engine still won't start, but at least it the solenoid will click now when I turn the key.

The fuse I pulled out was a 5 Amp. I didn't have another 5A fuse handy so I put in a 20A until I can get to the store. I turned the key on and Voila, the instrument panel came to life. I turned the key to start and...nothing. The 20A fuse blew. So, I put in a 30A fuse and it seems to be stable. FYI - The ignition relay is a 30A relay. I'm not sure if that matters in relation to the fuse.

This particular circuit powers the tilt motor, the instrument panel and its' lights, and sends power to the starter solenoid. Does it seem odd that all of this was working previously on a 5A fuse? Seems rather low in seeing that it was the fuse for all of these high amp devices.

I was looking at the wiring diagram in my Clymer book, and the wiring in the boat matches the book, there are no apparent shorts, and everything seems to be in order now.

My main question is, does anyone know what the proper fuse amperage is for this particular circuit?

Also, can anyone make a guess as to why the starter won't engage? Even when hooked up to a 75A booster. The starter and solenoid are new, the batteries appear to be in satisfactory condition. I had them load tested a few weeks ago and they both passed.

Thanks,

Chris"
 
Would it surprize you to know

Would it surprize you to know that the fuse protects the WIRE and not the appliance?
A guide for
Wire gauge = Current requirement = Fuse :
2=100=125
4=100=100
6= 60= 80
8= 46= 50
10= 33= 40
12= 23= 30
14= 17= 20
16= 13= 15
18= 10= 10
20=7.5=7.5
22= 5= 5
 
"The "same circuit" do

"The "same circuit" does not power all that stuff on the AQ131. The "ignition" (I) side fuse supplies current to the dash panel, the alternator rotor and the coil. The "start"(S) side fuse supplies current to the starter relay. I doubt that the ignition fuse needs to be very large. After all, the circuit to the alternator and coil contain current limiting resistors and, also, the start relay should not require more than a couple amps, but I don't have any knowledge of your particular setup. The other items connected to the I side are gauges. The accessory fuze panel under the dash should be powered directly from a big circuit breaker (battery). The only explanation I can come up with is that the wrong relay has been installed. If this is the case, you are trying to start the engine directly from the key switch. This could result in a fire. At least, double check the part number for this relay."
 
"Yes, it would not only surpri

"Yes, it would not only surprise but "shock" me if boat builders were willing to risk sensitive instruments and allow possibility of fires including electric motor fires such as windshield wipers and bilge pumps. However, very large circuit breakers may be selected on a wire basis, eg, to protect a particular cable or bundle from meltdown. For most purposes, particular fuses are selected to protect devices other than wires from catastrophic failure."
 
About the wire gauge chart: th

About the wire gauge chart: the current carrying capacity of a wire is related to the wire diameter and LENGTH of the wire.
 
"Well, it turned out to be the

"Well, it turned out to be the starter. I pulled it out and had it tested at Autozone. It failed. Took it back to the store I bought it from and they gave me a new one. Put it in and she fired right up. I just assumed it was anything but the starter since I had purchased it new, not reman, on the 27th of last month.

So, everything seems to be in order with the exception of the fuse. I'm going to put a 5A back in there and see what happens. I'm wondering if it may somehow have something to do with the starter. The guy that tested it said that current was flowing but it was locked up somehow.

Oh well, I'm just glad I got it working again. I've sunk enough money into this engine. Time to start enjoying it instead of working on it.

Thanks,

Chris

07/08 Free New Pertronix Ignitor Ignition Module
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07/15 $100.00 Replaced Cylinder Head
07/16 $141.95 New Mando Alternator
07/17 $330.75 New Osco Exhaust Manifold
07/17 $23.10 New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets and Bolts
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07/18 $5.24 New Intake Manifold Gasket
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07/20 $86.26 Tension Pulley
07/20 $32.47 Spring Guide
07/23 $154.38 New Exhaust Outlet
07/26 $13.14 New Exhaust Outlet Bolt
07/26 $41.95 New Pertronix Flame-Thrower Ignition Coil
07/27 $228.85 New Starter
07/27 $59.55 New Bosch Distributor Cap
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07/29 $80.86 14x21 Propeller
08/01 $3.55 New Water Pump Bypass Seal
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08/15 $16.26 New Starter Relay
08/16 $34.59 New 40A Circuit Breaker
08/16 $17.84 New Ignition Switch
08/20 Free Replacement New Starter"
 
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