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AQ125A Electrical Problem

"Here's the specifics:

"Here's the specifics:

Boat: 1982 Bayliner 19' Capri
Engine: Volvo AQ125A
Stern Drive: Volvo Penta 270

As I've said before, it's a tired old engine. After draining the oil from the stern drive (which came out with the consistency and color of Elmer's Glue), the drive quit whining and the boat was running great. I used gasket maker to seal up the top of the stern drive (the old gasket was shot and was letting tons of water into the drive).

I've always told my brother to check the oil before he takes it out, as the engine consumes quite a bit of oil when it's run (I'd say a quart every 6 hours of running time). Well, as usual, he doesn't heed my advice.

He had the boat out on the lake and had been running at full throttle for more than a half hour (this is after 2-3 hours of boating done earlier in the day). Suddenly, the boat dropped about 1000 RPM and he backed the throttle down to neutral where the engine promptly died. He tried to fire it back up and cranked it for a long time (he says spent almost five minutes cranking it, hope he gave the starter breaks during that 5 minutes), but had no luck.

He called me and I asked him what the temp gauge said. After the boat had been sitting for 10 minutes, the temp gauge was still reading around 215º. I know the impeller is fine and that the cooling system works. I had him check the oil and he said it wasn't even registering on the dip stick.

After getting towed in by a sheriff (boy do they have some impressive boats! Ben was promptly written a ticket for some violation as well...), I took a look at the boat. We put in around 2.5 quarts of oil to bring the level back up between the lines on the dipstick.

However, when I turned the ignition to on, nothing registered. I jiggled around the ground cable where it connects to the engine and the gauges lit up. I tried to crank the engine and it turned for a few seconds, so it isn't seized and the starter is still working.

However, now I get absolutely nothing at the gauges. Whether the key is in the on position or the start position nothing happens. The only things that do work are the bilge pump and the blower.

I got out the multi-meter and started testing voltages at various points with the common probe attached to the engine:

Battery: 12.6 volts
Alternator: 12.6 volts
Starter: 12.6 volts
12 V feed to fuse block: 12.6 volts
All fuses in the fuse block have continuity

There is continuity through the main fuse near the flywheel of the engine. The terminals on (what I am guessing is) the ignition relay are fairly corroded. I'm thinking we might have a bad ignition relay, but with no wiring diagram, it's a bit hard to tell where all the wires go and what their purpose is.

Any tips or insights as how to fix this problem?"
 
"Adam, go to the VP werb site

"Adam, go to the VP werb site and download the owner's manual for the AQ125A. The wiring diagram is included in pages 20 and 21. It may also help if you purchase the Seloc manual, as it also contains the electrical drawings.

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/en-gb/marineengines/operators_manual/


One thing you may want to try it to hotwire the flat prong at the right side of the starter (it has a yellow/red wire connected) solenoid with the large post in the starter. If the engine cranks with no problem, then the starter is OK and that would prove the engine is not seized. One thing you may want to do first, though, is to remove the spark plugs and afterwards crank the engine to make sure there is no water in the cylinders causing hydrolock."
 
"The engine isn't seized o

"The engine isn't seized or hydrolocked. When I connect the directly to the battery, the engine cranks. Also, with a breaker bar, I can turn the engine by turning the prop nut.

I forgot the wiring diagram was in the Volvo Penta operators manual. I'll give that a shot and see what I can come up with.

The engine and drive are pretty old and need some major servicing. I've got a lead on a Chevy 350 and compatible stern drive. What all would be involved in doing a swap over the winter? It seems the AQ125A is only mounted to the stern drive/transom, I'm not sure a 350 would work so well mounted like that..."
 
"What does "compatible&#34

"What does "compatible" mean. Sounds mysterious. What is it? The "ignition" relay is a starter relay only. The ignition is protected by circuit breaker, or in this case, a fuse. All that cranking may have damaged the ignition switch or other small component such as a small resistor in series with the switch. However, the fuse is most likely cause. Redue the continuity test with fuse completely disconnected. Check the diagram. I'm sure you will find the problem. A piece of trash may have wrapped up the intake causing the engine to overheat. Low oil did not help. Check the coolant and strainer. It remains possible that the engine overheated due to low oil alone and a compression test is suggested here. Check the gas tank. Sometimes, cops write tickets for running out of gas/towing."
 
"What stern drive? If it is a

"What stern drive? If it is a 290 with transom shield, Y-pipe, bellhousing, exhaust manifolds, etc, you will have to cut a larger hole to accommodate the new transom shield. And of course, you will need engine mounts. If you want to install a Mercruiser, then you will need to rework the transom or use a transom shield adapter, as the Mercruiser transom shield is smaller than the 270-280 VP. But if you intend to use your current transom shield, etc, you better read this first.

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12487/70492.shtml"
 
"Well, plans on an engine tran

"Well, plans on an engine transplant will be on hold until I figure out what all needs to be done the Volvo engine to make it reliable again.

As far as the wiring goes, I already isolated the circuit breaker and it does have continuity. I wonder if the ignition switch might be the culprit? It'd be easy to replace it with a couple of toggle switches as the key never leaves the boat..."
 
"While toggle switches can wor

"While toggle switches can work, generic ignition switches are not expensive. The advantage of an ignition witch is that, by removing or turning off the key, you know for sure you have turned off the ignition (and the starter solenoid)."
 
"Adam, using a VOM, check the

"Adam, using a VOM, check the voltage at the B terminal of the ignition switch. If hot, try jumping the switch using a wire with small alligator clips. Jump to the I terminal and see if gauges come up. Jump the S terminal and listen for the starter to make noises.

If B is not hot trace the circuit back to the battery through the alternator, starter and the main battery switch. Well, if the starter can be jumped as you noted then the main switch is OK."
 
"Thanks a lot guys.

I end


"Thanks a lot guys.

I ended up printing the wiring diagram and I rewired the fuse block (the wiring under the dash was a mess anyways...). Problem solved. I turned the key, the gauges came on and the starter worked.

The engine, however, did not. The starter turns the engine, but you can hear that the crankshaft is not turning - verified by the motionless timing belt. If you put more tension on the timing belt, the engine will turn. The timing belt is worn and does need to be replaced, but the pulley that turns it does not turn until tension is added to timing belt.

Time to pull the engine and rebuild/replace."
 
"Adam, somehow I think that th

"Adam, somehow I think that the crankshaft <u>is</u> turning but the cam is not due to a worn timing belt and possibly worn timing gears. If that is the case, the problem is easier to fix than you think. The gears can be obtained from an autowrecker for $100 or less for a complete set,a nd they are exactly the same as their "marine" counterparts. Also, you can install an automotive belt tensioner if yours is no good (and if it is you should consider replacing it anyway to start with a clean slate). And an automotive timing belt will also work fine in your engine."
 
Thanks El Pescador. It seems

Thanks El Pescador. It seems like it's a pain in the ass to get at those timing gears without pulling the engine though...
 
"Adam, look at my reply in you

"Adam, look at my reply in your other thread. If (like you said) your engine starts, then the problem cannot be a slipping timing belt."
 
It seems to be either a mechan

It seems to be either a mechanical isuue(like timing belt or gears)
Or an electrical issue. You never mentioned either fuel or spark. Are you getting either of the two?
 
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