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aq125a/270 tilt problems

C

Chase Hunt

New member
Have been reworking an 84 Bayliner Trophy with aq125a/270 outdrive - was testing this weekend and trimmed the motor up while running -(I'm new with I/O and didn't realize I wasn't supposed to do this) -- guess that's what the light is for. Nonetheless - motor won't trim up. I manually released and put it back on trailer --- tested motor it is good but am lost after that. Any idea what this kind of damage I may have caused? Thanks Ya'll.
 
Your drive is not equipped with Trim.
This is a lift-out device only that raises the drive up....... not the Engine.


Do a MarineEngine.com search. I know that we've addressed this several times before.

Most likely you have broken the cast iron portion of the clutch system.



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Or your reverse lock-out mechanism isn't adjusted correctly, not allowing the drive to lift up. Easy enough to figure oout, look at the mechanism while having someone at the helm hit the the drive up button. You will have to pull the drive to adjust it. Not one of VPs better ideas.
 
Chase, in order to manually lift the drive up, we must reach down and manually pull the latch unit down so that the latch hooks release from the set pin.

While you have the latch hooks released, give the tilt out unit a try.

If it does not lift..... yet the electric motor operates, then it's likely that the cast iron portion of the clutch unit has broken.


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Hey Rick --- is the cast iron portion of the clutch system you are referring to in this pic? Scared I've torn up something obsolete -- or at the least real expensive.
5372.jpg
 
Oh -- and I have the unit up -- the motor just won't spin when I hit the switch , so I pulled it from the lift unit and tested with battery and it spun both ways.
 
Chase Hunt said:
Thanks guys -- will do. I have always run inboards so I'm new to this trim / lift out device thing. I appreciate the direction!
Click to expand...

First break that bad habit of calling it a trim device thing.
Next, see if out the relay inside the black box or blew a fuse. The electric motor must have been pushing hard is you tried this In water at speed.

The original motor had a thermal overload built into the motor.
 
Dennis, the clutch is to prevent any Vice Rod motion greater than what the system can handle.
A good working clutch unit will allow the drive to be pushed downward.


Chase...here is the cast iron portion of the two-piece clutch unit.
To my knowledge, this part is not available separately.
 

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  • Lift unit vice rod clutch .jpg
    Lift unit vice rod clutch .jpg
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Thanks Rick --- one more question -- does part #4 in the drawing unscrew or is it pressed in? If the fuses and relay is good I guess I will dig in there and see what it looks like. Thanks again for all the advice - this forum has really helped me with this restoration - I've read tons of your posts!
 
Mine broke today :-(
Pulled off the motor and found worm gear seized up tight in the iron housing.
Took top off, removed spring clutch, big gear.
Plenty of grease, small bearing seems to have rusted, part 13 in drawing above.
Tried turning the worm gear with big screwdriver and broke it.

The assemblies on e-bay cost more than I paid for the boat!
 
Ended up being a relay on mine thank goodness --- thanks Dennis! I saw some internal parts for the lift out device on ebay last week -- they went for around $130 but included all that you would need --- maybe another set will come up soon.
 
I have what you need, PM me.
dennis461 said:
Mine broke today :-(
Pulled off the motor and found worm gear seized up tight in the iron housing.
Took top off, removed spring clutch, big gear.
Plenty of grease, small bearing seems to have rusted, part 13 in drawing above.
Tried turning the worm gear with big screwdriver and broke it.

The assemblies on e-bay cost more than I paid for the boat!
Click to expand...
 
I got your PM and I am Gerry rigging this to get through the season.
Finally found the parts list, seems there is a small bushing inside the steel case.

And, there is some differences in old versus new models, interference with the steering arm and relay boxes when steering to port.
 
I got your PM and I am Gerry rigging this to get through the season.
Finally found the parts list, seems there is a small bushing inside the steel case.

And, there is some differences in old versus new models, interference with the steering arm and relay boxes when steering to starboard
 
I just bought a new trim motor for my 1998 fourwinns horizon rx 4.3L. The old trim motor had two wires, a blue and a green one. The new one has 3 wires, a blue, a green, and a black. Can someone tell me where to hook the black one to. i hooked all the rest back up as they were and it's not doing anything.
Help! i already spent 3 weeks of my summer looking for a fitting because the new pump came with one fitting on the pump for the hoses that was slightly smaller than the other and the hose fittings on my boat were both the same size. Also, I just recently figured out that after 30 years of boating, that a boat can ingest water thru the exhaust. I've had my jet ski's do this, but never a boat. It happened at the end of the year last year. I let a buddy take his family out one evening and he got back and said I think your starter just went out. he said he tried to crank it up when they stopped at the marina and it was slow to turn over and then just spun out. it did that when I go there so i put it up for the winter until I got some time to replace it. 4 months later when i went to replace it, i put the new one in and it engaged the flywheel, then spun out again and never engaged it again. After further investigation, I found the cylinder heads full of water. The rings had rusted to the cylinder walls. The kicker was i had just put a brand new crate motor in it a year ago due to another buddy using it late in the year that year and not getting the water out when he winterized it for me afterwards. Needless to say, I've quit letting my buddy's borrow the boat.:) Can anyone tell me what may have cuased the water to get into the cyllinder headk the motor out, freed it up from sitting in water over the winter and put it back together in 2 days and it's taking me 3 weeks to get the freaking trim motor working.
 
You cannot replace the two wire motor with the three wire. AND you probably should start a new thread.
 
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If you use this style relay box...........

5372.jpg


...... either of the old Electrolux motors (4-wire or 3-wire) can be replaced with the much better 2-wire motor if the relays are re-wired.
I've posted the schematic before.... so it's out there, but may be tough to find.


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dennis461 said:
You cannot replace the two wire motor with the three wire. AND you probably should start a new thread.
Click to expand...
Unless you replace it all, like Ricardo stated. The three wire motor gets the blue wire tied to negative/ground. To go UP, the relays connect the green wire to positive. To go down the relays connect the ivory wire to positive.
 
dennis461 said:
Unless you replace it all, like Ricardo stated. The three wire motor gets the blue wire tied to negative/ground. To go UP, the relays connect the green wire to positive. To go down the relays connect the ivory wire to positive.
Click to expand...
And while on topic...... NEVER operate the electric motor by powering it outside of the relay and micro-switch system.
You can extend the vice rod this way..... but if you fully retract the vice rod this way...... you may break the cast iron section of the clutch system.


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