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aq125 oil leak at cam gear area?

D

discobayken

Regular Contributor
I'm getting ready to replace the timing belt... its due. I noticed yesterday when I had been on the water for about an hour that there was a small pool of oil directly under my heat exchanger. I traced it up and it appears to be coming from the cam gear area? is there a cam main seal that goes bad? or is it more likely the valve cover? Cant tell yet...

I have the seloc book as a guide for the timing belt replacement... but I'm not crazy about the instructions. Does anyone have another source they can recommend on that? tips and tricks?

Thanks!
 
as far as the oil leak you need to clean the area really good and remove any oil on it then watch closely to see where it is coming from, there is a seal on the cam shaft, but it's more likely to be the valve cover, as the factory ones from volvo are made of some type of cheap cork material,or paper type material."they suck" http://http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=70562
http://http://www.threefattigers.com/Protocore/Volvo/TimingMarks.htm
these are both links that were given to me on here on how to do the timing belt, it was actually really easy and did'nt take long at all.mark on crank pully faces straight up to line up with mark on block. mark"small dot "on cam pully faces straight up to line up with mark either on your cyl. head or belt gaurd"not sure which you have" but you should see the mark to align them, then the countershaft pully will also have a small dot that will be at about 3 oclock and line up with a stainless tab bolted to the block. this is if your buying the auto version of the belt, which is far cheaper! but if your buying the oem one from volvo it is easier but double the price if not more. the oem one has 3 white lines on it and you just line the 3 white lines up with the 3 timing marks on the pulleys.if your pulleys are all rusted and pitted they should be replaced also, or they will destroy the new belt over time, and or cause it to slip and jump teeth.hope this helps.
 
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EastcoatItalian, (my Pisan), I appreciate the info... but the first link would not open. Just got an error. the 2nd has great graphics for the marks. I was hoping to get info on the correct tension and how that all works. Is that what the first link has?

Re: the oil leak... I cant really tell where it is leaking because the FWC system is in the way... and of course I cant run the motor w/o it. hopefully when I take it apart I will be able to figure it out where the leak is coming from. Is there a better gasket than the cork? any tips there?

Re: the belt. yes, I bought the auto version "conti" kit with tensioner for about 30 bucks or so.

Thank you!

DB Ken
 
there is no need to adjust the tension on the belt, when you release the spring it will tension it's self, to get the tensioner on or off you have to squeeze the spring together by the 2 metal plates at either end of it with just a large pair of channel locks or vise grips,sorry about the link, i don't know what the problem is there?? but if you look through the last couple pages of post there's one i put on about bb140 timing belt and both the links are on there and work as far as i know??
 
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El P

Thanks! My auto supply only carried the cork gasket... is there a different one you recommend or is the cork one ok?

Eastcoast; Thanks, sounds pretty simple!

Ken
 
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