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AQ Series engine and drive complete removal options

DKaiser

Contributing Member
This weekend, I will be taking possession of a circa 1983, AQ125/270 from a destroyed hull. (Tree fell on boat, engine and drive untouched). I am planning to install engine and possibly drive in my project boat that currently has AQ145/280. (The AQ 145 needs more work than I can put into right now).


  1. What is the most logical way to remove the engine and drive knowing:
    1. It will be installed on another boat?
    2. They may be stored on pallets for months
  2. I read the transmission needs to be removed first, but can I remove the entire drive w/o removing the transmission?
  3. The 280 is on my 1982 boat, the 270 is off the destroyed 1983 boat.
    1. All things equal, are there any pros to swapping the 280 for the 270? (FYI - I have a 270 on a third boat and it is absolutely great).

(I am familiar with the R&R of PDS bearing, bellows, water neck)
 
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Depending on the model 125A has less displacement than the 125B but both are a plug and play swap with the 145. I would just remove the complete 270 drive from the shield and set it aside for now if the 280 is in good condition. Unless the transom has some damage it really dont matter what you remove first. The engine offsets the weight of the drive when mounted but neither weigh all that much.
 
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This weekend, I will be taking possession of a circa 1983, AQ125/270 from a destroyed hull. (Tree fell on boat, engine and drive untouched). I am planning to install engine and possibly drive in my project boat that currently has AQ145/280. (The AQ 145 needs more work than I can put into right now).


  1. What is the most logical way to remove the engine and drive knowing:
    1. It will be installed on another boat?
    2. They may be stored on pallets for months
  2. I read the transmission needs to be removed first, but can I remove the entire drive w/o removing the transmission?
  3. The 280 is on my 1982 boat, the 270 is off the destroyed 1983 boat.
    1. All things equal, are there any pros to swapping the 280 for the 270? (FYI - I have a 270 on a third boat and it is absolutely great).

(I am familiar with the R&R of PDS bearing, bellows, water neck)


1...... sub 1.
Corrosion can cause difficulty while removing some of these fasteners. If heat is not used at the thread inserts, damage may result.

1...... sub 2.
Fire the engine up and properly Fog it. (fogging is a dynamic process)
Spray the fogging solution into the carbureto at about 1200 RPM.
Have a helper kill the ignition while you continue fogging until the rotating assembly comes to rest.

2.....
During drive removal, it is much easier to remove the transmission first, just as it is to install the transmission last.
This opens up the area for the shift cable clamp, bellows work, water neck etc.


3.....
Understood.

3..... sub 1.
With exception to the 280 transmission having the fill port, the 280/270 transmissions are very much the same.
The lower units are not.
The 280 lower has a much better exhaust outlet configuration, and a much better torque tab/trim fin arrangement.
The 280 lower can also be retro-fit with a modified 290 outlet flapper.

As for the PDS and bearing........ this will be a single bearing PDS, of which can undergo R&R without engine removal.


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Thanks Kim and Rick.

Rick, I now remember pulling the transmission and the ease of access to the bellows, etc. Thanks

When reinstalling the transmission, is making the bolts tight good enough or do I really need specific torque values on them?
 
When reinstalling the transmission, is making the bolts tight good enough or do I really need specific torque values on them?

Well, of course it's best to follow the OEM torque values...... but in reality, most seasoned mechanics have enough experience to know how tight these should be.
There will be two 3/8" nuts and two 3/8" cap screws.

Be sure that all O-rings are replaced.


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