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AQ 140-A fuel pump issue

M

mtnmike

Member
Good Morning,

My AQ-140a with twin solex side drafts (rebuilt) has excellent throttle response and will run up to about 3500 RPM with no problem for an extended period of time. Throttle up to 5,000 and it will run fine for a couple of minutes and then begin to starve for fuel. Throttle back and all is well.

My questions are multiple, is it possible for a fuel pump to deliver fuel at lower speeds and not at higher demand?

Secondly, the replacement pump pictured does not look anything like the old pump, but it is the replacement part all the same. Has anyone installed the new style pump and how did that go from a "fit" aspect?

Third, any other ideas as the problem that I'm experiencing?

Thanks for any ideas that you may have...Mike
 
I determined today that my fuel pump is a French made SEV Marchal and I can find no mention of the same for a replacement or rebuilt kit (the pump is made to rebuild) The engine is a 1976 and according to the picture in my owners manual for cleaning the filter, this is the proper fuel pump.

Does anyone know about these pumps? Thanks, Mike
 
let's go back to your solex sidedrafts. You say they were rebuilt but by who? If you did them yourself did you check the float height and make sure its correct? Are the floats working properly? Did you clean out the fuel inlet orifices to the bowls? Sounds like slight fuel starvation but only at high demend.

My experience with these carbs, I rebuilt a set and never checked the float height thinking they ran great before why change anything. After rebuilding there was a noticeable difference in easier starting, smoother idling, and faster accelleration. I thought I did a great job. But after 10 minutes of cruising all of a sudden the boat would just die. I could restart it no prblem and it would die again after 5 minutes. I had to restart many times to get back to the dock. I even tried running the fuel line into a fresh gallon gas can but same problem. Luckily the problem was consistent. I dug back into my carbs and found one of my floats was sticking and not letting the bowl fill up all the way. Lesson learned.

"Experience is something you get right after you need it"
 
Thank you for responding. I rebuilt the carbs myself and did soak them in carb cleaner overnight and blew out all the fuel passages. I also set the floats with the gauge and they only took slight adjustment for their original setting. BUT...that does not rule out that is all is well in carburetor land.

The fuel pump seemed like a good bet as the culprit, but it seems that it is impossible to replace with a direct fit and I can find no one, including large Volvo Penta Dealers, that are helpful. I want to solve the odd ball fuel pump issue even if that is not the problem at this point and time.

I can cruise along at 3500 RPM endlessly, did your boat do the same? It does sound suspiciously like your same issue. Thanks Mike
 
jackdaddy said:
Did you ever find a replacement fuel pump, I have the same need.
Click to expand...

Here's something to keep in the back of our mind. Don't know what type boat you have, but in the Bayliner there was a check valve in the fitting on the tank that was constricted and that was creating some of my problems. If you have actual fuel pump failure, read on.

After weeks, I had exhausted all possibilities of finding a direct fit pump from Volvo. Even if you could find one on eBay, it will cost a fortune and if it fails in the future you are back to square one.

I eventually replaced the fuel pump with a marine electric pump. That process is not necessary easy, but it solved all of my fuel problems and I can replace the electric pump in the future for very little money and effort.

In the end, between replacing the circulating water pump, the fuel pump, and the rebuilding the carbs, I determined that for the best interest of my good humor that I would sell the boat and so I did. It was one of the happiest days of my life.

Let me know if I can help you any further and good luck.
 
FYI........

mtnmike said:
Here's something to keep in the back of our mind. Don't know what type boat you have, but in the Bayliner there was a check valve in the fitting on the tank that was constricted and that was creating some of my problems.
This is a required "anti-siphon" valve for gasoline engine boats, regardless of the boat manufacturer.
It is a check valve, but is being used a bit differently in order to prevent an unwanted fuel siphon should a low portion of a fuel line become damaged.


I eventually replaced the fuel pump with a marine electric pump. That process is not necessary easy, but it solved all of my fuel problems and I can replace the electric pump in the future for very little money and effort.
For those reading this, remember that in order to meet USCG regs, the electric fuel pump's power source must be interruptible via a N/O low oil pressure switch.
Click to expand...
 
RicardoMarine said:
FYI........
Click to expand...

I understand the check valve requirement, in this instance the check was not in the line, but built into the actual valve on the tank, i replaced it with an inline check. Three boat guys besides myself had never seen this type check.

Also, my statement that "it was not easy to install the electric pump" included an oil pressure switch interruption, making a cover and gasket to block the old fuel pump port, reworking the input carburetor fuel line, and installing a manual fuel pump shutoff switch on the dash.

It's also important to purchase a certified marine use electric pump, which I did.

Thanks for bringing up "doing it right and making it safe."
 
FYI........

mtnmike said:
I understand the check valve requirement, in this instance the check was not in the line, but built into the actual valve on the tank, i replaced it with an inline check. Three boat guys besides myself had never seen this type check.
The anti-siphon vavles are typically installed in the 90* fitting that exits the fuel tank.
They are immediately after the pick up tube, and are first in line before anything else.

Also, my statement that "it was not easy to install the electric pump" included an oil pressure switch interruption, making a cover and gasket to block the old fuel pump port, reworking the input carburetor fuel line, and installing a manual fuel pump shutoff switch on the dash.
Any helm located switch that controls the electric fuel pump power, must be "Momentary".
IOW, it cannot remain in the ON position once your hand is away from it.

It's also important to purchase a certified marine use electric pump, which I did.

Thanks for bringing up "doing it right and making it safe."
You're welcome....... and yes.... key word "safe"!
I was just thinking of any onlookers who may be reading this thread.
Click to expand...
 
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