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any ideas on how to clear out sludged up coolant system?

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stang32

Regular Contributor
so i bought this boat from someone who lived on a causeway with a lot of silt. so much he could only go out a max of 4 hrs, 2 hrs before and 2 hrs after high tide. so the boat runs great but when you try to winterize it and run it on muffs, it wont push the a/f through. you have to break the whole system down, pull the thermo housing, and pull the quick connects on the block, ( its a 5.7 MPI with standard cooling and quick drain system.)

i bought a closed cooling system for it but before i just through this thing on, i want to be sure i can get the fluid to through the block properly.
i was going to knock out the expansion plugs and manually clean it out and i have already pulled the manifolds to get better access but of course, 2 lugs are behind the motor mounts. i do not plan to pull the motor but i may rig it up and pull 1 mount at a time.,
im just curious if anyone has any better ideas.
the engine is only a few years old and it only has abut 50 hours on it, otherwise i would just ride it out.
 
are you sure the block is sludged up??? I might just be the water pump hasn't been serviced - sitting will kill the impeller fast, especially if the sun heats it up...
 
ok...it may be clogged at one of the pinch points in the plumbing, before it get to the engine....maybe pull the hose where the water enters the engine (at the t-stat) and make sure it flows good there...measuring the volume for a short period of time is the best approach..

if the exhaust elbows get hot, they may also be the culprits...some of the silt I've seen is like fine sand and will wash away as soon as the water hits it hard enough....some of it is like ceramic - once it sits and sets, its a major PITA to get out...
 
stang32 said:
i bought a closed cooling system for it but before i just through this thing on, i want to be sure i can get the fluid to through the block properly.
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Ayuh,...... Don't throw yer money away,..... Anything short of a new, or boiled clean torn down bare block will clog the H/E on the side you can't clean,.......
 
well i have already pulled all the hose off and stripped the engine down to the block.
i was hoping i could get into the block through the expansion plugs and maybe hit it with a pressure washer. i know i wont get all of it but at this point i dont even know how bad it is inside. i guess i am knocking out plugs this week.
 
stang32 said:
well i have already pulled all the hose off and stripped the engine down to the block.
i was hoping i could get into the block through the expansion plugs and maybe hit it with a pressure washer. i know i wont get all of it but at this point i dont even know how bad it is inside. i guess i am knocking out plugs this week.
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If it’s stopped down have it hot tanked at a machine shop only way to do it
 
try going thru the 2 core plugs at the front of the motor, adapt a 3/18ths hollow tube to a hose with clamps etc.
Next, remove the quick crack system and go back to the old way Replace the manifold fittings with drains ,remove the block connects and install brass drains.
 
you could always install the HX and then add a coolant filter...if that's a new concept, look at some of the truck diesel forums...isn't hard to build a DIY mod kit if you are resourceful...
 
makomark said:
you could always install the HX and then add a coolant filter...if that's a new concept, look at some of the truck diesel forums...isn't hard to build a DIY mod kit if you are resourceful...
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not a bad idea, i actually have a coolant filter i never ended up using for one of my mustangs.
but which side does the filter go? whats the direction of flow?
 
depends on the style (i call them in-line or bypass)...the bypass is what is typically used on the small truck diesels...and they don't grab the full flow but a portion of it...and they do their magic over time...
 
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