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Another Shift Interrupter Issue

D

dwillems

Member
Long story short, I've had this boat for two months, on the water once. I put on a new outboard drive after I destroyed my old gears. In the process of learning how to adjust the shifter, I learned about this interrupter. What it does and what it's for. Now keep in mind the boat shifted fine for me in the water with the old outboard, and I never touched any wiring this whole time. New outboard is on, shifts fine for me on the muffs, but when I activate the interrupter, the engine doesn't bog down at all. Hmmm. So I pull the connector apart and check continuity with the switches. The Interrupter is closed, and when activated it's open. And vise versa for the override switch.

Is my next step just replacing the ESA? Wish there was a wiring diagram for this thing so I could check the voltage in it.
 
There is in the manual seloc #3400 in the right hand corner.

Disconnect the esa module OVERSTROKE micro and the int. micro.

One wire from the int. micro to a ground and one wire to the neg side of the coil.

Now your wired like a merc see if it works now.
 
Thanks, I'll give it a try. I was wondering why they really needed the override switch. Seems to me that it's just a backup in case that rocker didn't reposition itself to neutral, but if it's set up correctly they really don't need that safety of the override.
 
First and foremost, will be your lower shift cable adjustment.
The goal is to place the lower unit Dog Clutch "sliding sleeve" at an equal distance between the two "driven" gears.
When you achieve this, you will have found absolute neutral (or as close as you're going to get to it).

Now while the cable is keeping the sliding sleeve in this neutral position, you will adjust and connect the cable to the linkage affair. This should ensure that a FWD shift completely pulls the sleeve into the FWD driven gear..... and visa-versa.

The final ESA micro switch adjustment must be done while the boat is in the water.
Why.... because we need to allow the cable and linkage to sense the resistance of the Dog Clutch teeth that is caused by the propeller being under prop thrust load.
No water.... not prop thrust load.

Under normal conditions, and IMO..... the ESA will have very little involvement when going from Neutral into either FWD or REV gear.
The ESA's primary job is to momentarily lower engine RPM as to momentarily release the Dog Clutch engagement teeth from FWD or REV gear back into Neutral.

When all is working, this occurs within a fraction of a second.

***********************************


This is a copy/paste from an earlier response of mine regarding adjusting this lower cable. This works for both the Merc A drive and the Cobra
drive.




The OEM engineers had to choose an initial cable adjustment dimension for average Joe mechanic and average Joe user. Hence the initial adjustment "Tool".
This gets us close ONLY.... and perhaps may be subject to further adjustment.



The whole idea is to center the Dog Clutch "sliding sleeve" equally between the two driven gear Dog Teeth while in neutral. The pre-determined dimension (the tool) gets you close ONLY, since each scenario may be slightly different.


Here is my unorthodox method for a Dog Clutch drive, if you care to try it.
You can either begin with the suggested OEM dimension, or toss it out the window and begin from scratch.... your call:


1. With the drive fully down (to counter gravity against the sliding sleeve), have a helper swing the propeller back and forth (right and left) quickly, and in an even pattern and rhythm.

2. You will be at the engine with the lower shift cable disconnected at the linkage arm.


3. As you bring the cable towards a FWD gear engagement, note where you just begin to hear the "ratcheting" sound as the sliding sleeve contacts the FWD gear Dog Teeth.
Note where the cable is in it's travel.

4. Now move the cable towards a REV gear engagement. The helper willstill be swinging the prop back/forth.
Again, note where you just begin to hear the sliding sleeve contact the FWD gear Dog Teeth.
Note once again where the cable is in it's travel.

5. When you divide this travel equally, you will have located theoretical Neutral regarding where the sliding sleeve is in relationship to thetwo driven gears.
This is the goal.

6. Now connect your lower shift cable up to the rest of the linkage so that this "Neutral" travel adjustment is maintained.

You may find that the new measurement is slightly different from that ofthe OEM (or Stuart Hastings dimension for the OMC Cobra drives).

None-the-less, the sliding sleeve will now be at center of travel while inNeutral.
Again, this is the goal!

7. Make your SI or ESA micro switch adjustments after first doing the above.... and again, while in the water.


NOTE: this method works well if all is in good condition.
If you have a bad cable, bent shifting rod, or any other items that are not working correctly, it will prevent most any method from working as it could.


.
 
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This is not a perfect science..... but give this a try.

With the engine OFF and while in FWD gear, have a helper hold the propeller against the FWD rotational direction.
This will somewhat simulate prop thrust against the dog clutch teeth. IOW, it should keep the teeth locked in gear.

You may need to disconnect the over-stroke switch.

Have another helper attempt to make a shift from FWD into neutral while you watch the cam lever.
The resistance being felt by the lower shift cable should activate the spring loaded cam.
The cam should operate the interrupt micro switch.

While the micro switch is being operated, check continuity.
Adjust as required.



.
 
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Once more this knucklhead comes into a thread and does nothing more than to disrupt it.
You, Mr. Filp Flop, should be ashamed of yourself. :mad: It's past time to grow up!

Filp Flop said:
Hey Ricardo, You like to steal other peoples write ups and post as yours,
Click to expand...
I can assure you that the above write up (in blue font) is indeed mine..... every word of it.
I have posted this several times over the years. Many people have tried it, and have told me how well it worked for them.

If I were to plagiarize someone, I'd definitely let it be known.


.
 
My apologies to you guys.... Mr. Filp Flop is apparently back at it.
This is the SOS as on the BOC (where he's been banned more than once).... now he's carried it over here to ME.com.

**********************************

Mr. FF, this procedure works for the Dog Clutch drives.... both Merc A drives and the OMC Cobra.

If you'd like to find posts where I've said that I don't work on the OMC drives, please do so.
Here...... I'll save you time by saying it right now ..... "I do not routinely work on the OMC engines/drives! Rarely will I ever touch one."

That said...... does this disqualify me as per my shift cable adjustment procedure?
Why does this procedure work for the OMC drives?

Here's a challenge for you:
Post your own suggestions for this cable adjustment and without plagiarizing!



Edit.... yes, an Edit:

Filp Flop, if you believe that I plagiarized my write up, then perhaps you believe that I copied this from an OMC authority.... perhaps Stuart Hastings or another OMC authority!
If I copied this from an OMC authority, then it would be safe to assume that you would agree with it.... correct?
If you agree with it, then why the question my OMC involvement? Wouldn't you be more inclined to question the content of my write up?
After all...... plagiarizing is plagiarizing........ so if I plagiarized, I got it correct, right? I certainly wouldn't copy anyone but an authority.... that would be silly!


I know that is a bit over your head, so if you need to..... ask a literate friend (if you have one) to read this and explain it to you.
Hopefully you'll get the point if it's explained to you in simple lay terms.
If not... I can dumb it down for you.



Honestly, I think that you need to find something productive to do with your time, and stay out of these topics where you know absolutely nothing about them.
You're certainly wasting your time here, and you're certainly wasting the members time. :mad:




.
 
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