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Another PDS Question

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epj

New member
I have re-aquainted myself with this excellent source of info last night and was totally impressed with the assistance given on the step by step PDS replacement on the 1994 5.7 GI-PMDA. I have A 1993 572A DP-C1 with 550+ hrs.total, a COMPLETE NEW DRIVE was installed about 250 hrs. ago before I purchased the Boat, A 1993 Cobalt . My PDS may be the cause of a very slight Viabration but I do not really hear or feel much difference in turns. My Bellows is due for replacement and I think I will Tackle this my self I am thinking PDS maint, I was told if my Flywheel Housing was RED the engind needs to come out! but looking on the VP factory web-site my parts look the same as the 1994 5.7 GI-PMDA. I have been removing the rear clamp on the Drive Boot and inspecting the best I can with a light and mirror. Tere are no signs of water intrusion U-Joint yoke and spiders shiny and tight) Props are re-done and balanced and this made most of the previous (harmonic Prop Speed Buzz) go away. I do have a factory manual and a good amount of Mechanical know how. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
 
Easiest and most simple way to determine this, is to see if there is a grease zirk in your flywheel cover.

If you do have a zirk fitting, then you very likely have a two bearing PDS.

If no zirk, you very likely have a single bearing, and these are usually a sealed bearing.
This PDS should come out AFT w/ bearing attached.
 
If you need any help do not hesitate to ask. I put it all together less than a week ago and its still fresh in my mind.

I do have some advice if you do plan on doing it yourself, get all the parts you can first. Especially the O-rings and seals. You can return what you don't need anyway. Some of the parts I needed had to be ordered and added a two week delay to the job for me. The actual doing it wasn't too time consuming or difficult.
 
No zerk on Flywheel cover! Hopefully I will not have any corrosion issues. Thanks for the replies. If the shaft has no play and all looks well I may just do a re-boot. I am curious about the Pins in the outdrive steering bracket. I looked at the special tool in the manual, Is this a puller? does it thread onto the pin and unscrew it?
 
epj said:
No zerk on Flywheel cover! Hopefully I will not have any corrosion issues. Thanks for the replies. If the shaft has no play and all looks well I may just do a re-boot.
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I'll suggest this to you.
In all my years doing these, I know of absolutely no guaranteed method to determine if this bearing is in good condition and how much longer it will work unless you remove it and inspect it.
The PDS is connected to the drive coupler.... so you can't rotate it!
Any questionable side to side play would be difficult to detect.

What I am able to tell you, is that you CAN tell if one is bad! But by now, you've already decided to replace it.... Right?????

I can also give you a rough idea of what a new Flywheel Cover, a new Drive Shaft and what a new front Clamping Collar/Bearing Box and Set-Up time will cost you when this bearing fails! :eek: You don't want to know this!!!!!!

I would pull the shaft.... and put this inexpensive bearing/seal in.... and enjoy not having to worry about this!
 
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It may look like a daunting task but it really wasnt that bad of a job. My suggestion though have a friend help remount the trans, and do order the parts in advance. It was about a week or so to get the bearing in.
 
jcampbell said:
.............. My suggestion though have a friend help remount the trans, and do order the parts in advance. It was about a week or so to get the bearing in.
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Jcampbell, not sure if I understand you on that! With the transmission ONLY removed, this is an easy one-man-task.

If you guys are removing the entire drive for this, I'd suggest that you try a different approach by removing the transmission ONLY.
If you need to do further work on the Reverse Latch unit, Pivot Tube or Main Suspension Fork bushings or ?????, then by all means remove the entire drive, but remove the transmission First.
Re-install the transmission Last!
The cost...... two O-rings!

This opens up the area for re-connecting the water neck, S hose and shift cable bracket, and leaves you with the weight of the Mid and Lower sections only when re-hanging the drive......, and allows for an easy transmission re-connection to the PDS, etc.

Your call, but I'd strongly encourage you to try this method!

BTW, these bearings and seals are nothing out of the ordinary, and can be purchased through any major bearing supplier.
The bearing will likely be in stock, the 35x62x7mm seal will likely take a day or two to bring in.... so yes, order your parts ahead of time. :)

If yours require an "open" bearing, but only a sealed bearing is available, just simply pick the two seals from the bearing.
Same bearing p/n, but will have an extension number on it.

Steer clear of Chinese bearings.
Japanese, German, Swedish..... are all good.

.
 
I just found it easier to have anither person help put the trans back on after i did the bellows, bearing and seals. That way one can align the stuff up while another set of hands prevent it from dropping. Im a bit of a clutz sometimes do some arthritis in the hands, and hand cramps
 
I will have my parts Tomorrow, I will be removing the entire drive beacuse of what I think is excessive play in the bushings on the Yoke. I do have a question about removing the pins on the Yoke without the special tool. Do they unscrew or pull out?
 
epj said:
......... I will be removing the entire drive beacuse of what I think is excessive play in the bushings on the Yoke. I do have a question about removing the pins on the Yoke without the special tool. Do they unscrew or pull out?
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Not sure what you are calling a "Yoke".
There is a main suspension fork that the drive hinges on and hangs from
Then there is a steering fork called a "collar steering" fork.
Oddly enough, both incorporate the use black plastic bushings.

Since you mention unscrew or pull out, I assume you mean the Main Suspension fork hinge pins...... of which leads us to yet one more good reason to remove the transmission first.... re-install last!
I'd not suggest this if it weren't a better method to use. :)

The hinge pins are very soft. The keeper bolts must be removed first.
You must HEAT the bosses (no Oxy/Acet) and drive on the pins with Brass or Aluminum ONLY.
If you use a steel punch, you risk expanding the pins..... and now you're looking at machining them out of the bore.

.
 
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PDS Bearing and new Boots DONE!!!! Took about 5 or 6 hours of actual work BY MYSELF,My Wife did provide Moral Support and held a light for me while I was fighting the Lock Rings. I did spend way to much time on the lock rings (small snap ring pliars) And I had a problem with the Jack Bolt threads on the Steering Helmet but the Bearing was like new, no signs of water intrusion ever. I was able to pull it by hand with vise grips! U-joints Perfect no play. A fabricated a puller for the Suspension Fork pins and they were not a problem. I also fabricated a fixture for my Motorcycle jack to hold the outdrive. THIS WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT PIECE OF EQUIPMENT! Now I feel confident about my Boat again. Thank all of You for all the RELIABLE info.
 
epj said:
PDS Bearing and new Boots DONE!!!! Took about 5 or 6 hours of actual work BY MYSELF,My Wife did provide Moral Support and held a light for me while I was fighting the Lock Rings. I did spend way to much time on the lock rings (small snap ring pliars) And I had a problem with the Jack Bolt threads on the Steering Helmet but the Bearing was like new, no signs of water intrusion ever. I was able to pull it by hand with vise grips!
U-joints Perfect no play.
A fabricated a puller for the Suspension Fork pins and they were not a problem. I also fabricated a fixture for my Motorcycle jack to hold the outdrive. THIS WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT PIECE OF EQUIPMENT! Now I feel confident about my Boat again. Thank all of You for all the RELIABLE info.
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A couple of non-solicited points if I may.

The PDS bearing for your unit is inexpensive to replace....... only $14 - 18 tops. Not sure from your comment, but since you were in there this far, I sure hope that you replaced this..... even if it felt good to the touch!

U-joint bearing crosses are difficult (even for the best of us), to determine the condition of by feel alone! Once the wear pattern begins, they are on their journey out!
Again, very inexpensive to replace these.

Next time, no need to remove the hinge pins to remove the entire drive! In fact, this work is much easier to do if the transmission ONLY is removed.
Remove the hinge pins/main suspension fork/Intermediate housing, etc., if further work is necessary. Install transmission last! IMO!
Try this, and I'll bet that it will become your preferred method!

Whether you replaced the PDS bearing and/or U-joint crosses or not, good for you in doing this important preventative maintenance step!
So many do not, and are destine for eventual failure!
 
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Yes, I replaced the Bearing and Seal, I was making a comment about the Robustness of the hardware this is a 1993 model the shaft looked Brand new and there is no way a Mercruiser Gimbal Bearing would have lasted this long. I was somewhat concearned about the Pilot Bearing moving but I assume it rides in a recess under the Coupler. In my usual infinate wisdom I waited until the last weekend before Our first lake trip to do this! and the only parts I had were Bearing and Seal. My crosses have the snap rings on the Out side. In my 40 plus years dealing with auto maint. My U-Joint diagnosis is hopefully a good one. I will replace them on the Next Boot Change Out. I would like to discuss at somtime the Transmission Removal VS entire Drive. One more Question, I noticed an Oil Pump in the diagram for the Lower Drive assembly that only runs when the drive is in gear. My question is would Idiling at a fast idle in Neutral make the Transmission or upper section of the drive Heat Up. I changed the Oil with just a little more than required of VP Synthetic 85 w 90 a little over the "full" on the stick
 
The bearing for the PDS "pilot nose" is actually in the crankshaft just ahead of the drive coupler.... and is a ball bearing, of which is a carry-over from the auto engines!
It could just as well be a bronze bushing, since there is NO rotation at this point.... centering ONLY!
The grease is so that the nose/splines will not become rusted into the bearing and/or the Borg Warner splines.
(you will occasionally read where an owner cannot seperate his engine from the F/C..... and this is why)

Correct! The slinger pump works only when the prop shaft turns.
Running in neutral places no load on the upper gears that would generate enough heat to cause an issue.

There are two pins (in the large driven gear) that drive the aluminum slinger..... I have seen them sheared before...... no explanation other than heavy gear oil!!!! ????

.
 
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For some reason many moons ago I got in the habit of running the engine in gear if at all posible. Just make sure the prop doesn't beat the heck out of the pavement, don't ask. I also made a custom cut off broom handle wittled down plug I put in the blowout hole in the bottom of the outdrive to help as much water go up instead of down. I don't know if either works but it's not much trouble and it's been a 30 year habit.
 
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