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Anita

A

amathis

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This is my first time here so not sure if I will do this right. I am at a lost where to go next on my 1976 35 hp evinrude motor. This is what I have replaced so far. Water pump, plugs , power pack and exhaust gasket. I also have a new gas line and gas tank. Compression is 129 and 130 . The motor starts just fine, although it idles a little too fast. My problem is once started and placed into gear rather forward or reverse I cannot get any power. The gears seem to engage as I can go slowly forward and back. At least I had enough to get it back on the trailer thank goodness. What should I check next or is it something I need to have a shop do? Please help as I have not used the boat since 2006 and really want to go fishing with it again. Thank you for any help you can give me..
 
I had a similar problem with my 1991 Johnson 115hp that I bought for peanuts because the prior owner could not figure it out. I went step by step fixing everything and it had a ton of things wrong with it. It was providential that I could not get it to rev up in gear, because one day it dawned on me to check the engine temperature with a laser thermometer, and I found that the cylinder head cooling passages were totally clogged up. I would have fried the engine had I been able to go full speed in gear. Scroll to the bottom of this thread and read what I wrote: http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?422910-Engine-starts-and-runs-great-for-awhile

Now, on mine, the problem was many things, and the procedure was step by step:

1) I changed the fuel hoses as the old hoses were too big a diameter and fuel was leaking all over the place
2) I changed all the hoses on the engine, fuel, recirculation, and primer. ( I water tested it and it still did not speed up in gear)
3) I had to correct the remote throttle as it was on backwards
4)I replaced the VRO with a regular fuel pump
5) I had to clean, rebuilt and adjust the carbs
6) I did a complete Synch and Link and the Joe Reeves Maximum Spark Advance technique.
7) cleaned and gap the plugs and test for good spark jump.
8) I changed two coils some spark plug wires
9) I had to take apart the heads and hand scraper clean all the water passages and replace the rubber deflectors
10) I changed the thermostat (somewhere up there I did a second water test)

I water tested it for the third time AND it took off like a bat out of hill, the thing flies!


It was a step by step. What has been your step by step so far?
 
Last edited:
Klink said:
I had a similar problem with my 1991 Johnson 115hp that I bought for peanuts because the prior owner could not figure it out. I went step by step fixing everything and it had a ton of things wrong with it. It was providential that I could not get it to rev up in gear, because one day it dawned on me to check the engine temperature with a laser thermometer, and I found that the cylinder head cooling passages were totally clogged up. I would have fried the engine had I been able to go full speed in gear. Scroll to the bottom of this thread and read what I wrote: http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?422910-Engine-starts-and-runs-great-for-awhile

Now, on mine, the problem was many things, and the procedure was step by step:

1) I changed the fuel hoses as the old hoses were too big a diameter and fuel was leaking all over the place
2) I changed all the hoses on the engine, fuel, recirculation, and primer. ( I water tested it and it still did not speed up in gear)
3) I had to correct the remote throttle as it was on backwards
4)I replaced the VRO with a regular fuel pump
5) I had to clean, rebuilt and adjust the carbs
6) I did a complete Synch and Link and the Joe Reeves Maximum Spark Advance technique.
7) cleaned and gap the plugs and test for good spark jump.
8) I changed two coils some spark plug wires
9) I had to take apart the heads and hand scraper clean all the water passages and replace the rubber deflectors
10) I changed the thermostat (somewhere up there I did a second water test)

I water tested it for the third time AND it took off like a bat out of hill, the thing flies!


It was a step by step. What has been your step by step so far?
Click to expand...
I have not done all that you did. First change the exhaust gasket so I knew that was bad was the reason we stopped using in the this place. Power pack was bad so would not let it start at all, so replaced . Water pump went bad I guess from the years of setting so replaced that also. New plugs , first had the wires in wrong place but once I reversed those it started right up. Was idling too fast so adjusted it down some. Starts every time now just no power when in gear. That's is all I have done so far. I just hope its a easy fix and not too costly . So should I check the water temperature and water passages next ? Thanks for the ideas.
 
1)change the exhaust gasket (the exhaust cover gaskets on the port side of the engine?)
2)changed Power pack
3)changed Water pump
4) New plugs (you need to do a spark test, the spark should jump at least 7/16. let me know if it passes test. Use this http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0221_-1_4392&pt=N0221&ppt=C0371 )

5) adjusted idle idling too fast so adjusted it down some. (you need to do a Link & Synch and a Joe Reeves Maximum Spark Advance)


I just hope its a easy fix and not too costly. (only costs in what I gave above is like $25 for the laser thermometer and the spark tester. I use those exact brands.)

So should I check the water temperature and water passages next ? (you need to do it before you go out and water test the boat at high speed or run the engine for too long)

They sell the spark testers with the adjustable gap in any auto parts store. If you get it, then I'd do the spark test first and let me know the results, then we'll go from there.
 
Anita, is the problem truly a lack of power or is it that the motor runs fine but does not push the boat? If the latter, your propeller hub is probably slipping. A new prop or have the old one re-hubbed will fix it if that is the problem.
 
Are you absolutely sure it is running on both cylinders.Sounds to me as if it's only running on one.Most of these motors will start and run fine on just one when not under load but for obvious reasons have no power when they are.Do the plug lead drop test to see which cylinder is the culprit and go from there.
 
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