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amp diod JOE .R

4

48tony

Regular Contributor
I went to 3 auto part stores to get the diod you spoke of to let the cdi amp get the correct amount of volts when cranking.All 3 places told me to go to radio shack. i did so and they told me what they had would not be recomended for this aplication.could you please give me a part number for this diod needed on this 60 hp esl -d 1970. maybe then i could find what i need.thank you tony
 
I never heard of that diode being used on you mtr as they were only used on V-4's. Anyway the OMC part # for the diode was 383538.
 
There have been at least two dozen people that I've helped in the past with this diode voltage assist setup, and all of them have found the diode at Radio Shack. All you need is a two wire diode that would handle any automotive 12 volt circuit.
 
If that's the case then the diode kit part # 583898 thats in the OMC wiring harness should work. It's still available.
 
ok i looked up that diode part number 583898 omc it does show being a kit.sorry to make this such a ishue.i found one on e bay for 7 dollars new.my qustion is, was this kit made just for this problem when the starter surges volts not allowing the amp to recieve the full amount of volts when being cranked over.just want to be sure this diode kit is what i need to retro fit a fast fix on my ignition system. again thank you for the help. tony
 
well after all this,i found out that the new amplifier has one built into it. this is why i was told to remove the clipper box do to the new amp haveing been modified.maybe just for double protection it may be worth putting one in anyway .what do you think?not nessessarilly the omc diode kit but a radio shack 12 volt diode.Or was i miss led with this info about a built in diode in the new amp box?
 
I guess I'm really confused. I was going by Johnson service bulletin 1375 dated Feb,1975 to get more voltage to the pack when cranking. I Give Up!
 
Clearly one must understand the purpose of the " built in diode " and ----------------------think about the modifcation and the purpose of the diode in the modification.--------------------Electrics are not confusing at all.
 
Yeah, the purpose of the diode in the bulletin was to by-pass the safety switch when cranking to get as much voltage possible to the pack when cranking. Check the bulletin out. And no, I'm not confused about electronics.
 
Well your both better men than I because have not a fipin clue when it comes to all this sorry for my ele ignoence.So racer one can you explain to me in laten terms .
 
Going to try one more time.....

Radio Shack: If whoever you're talking to there doesn't know what a two wire diode is that can handle 12 volts of a automotive battery, ask to speak to someone that does or visit another Radio Shack store. It's simply a diode that is about 1/2" in diameter..... they're readily available.

As a last resort ,sometime when I'm out, I may just stop in the local Radio Shack to get the part number but I'm not going to make a special trip for it.

NOTE that this is a diode that is easily recognized, fairly large.... NOT a small diode that one would find in a circuit board.

When/if you find the diode..... use a ohm meter to find the direction of voltage travel. In one direction, there will be no reading. There will be a reading in the opposite direction.

When you do obtain a ohm reading, whichever diode wire the ohm meter red lead is connected to..... that's the wire that should be connected to the pulsepack input voltage terminal if memory serves me right (usually a purple lead). If my memory is flawed, hopefully someone will jump in here with a correction.

Double check it before connecting the diode wire to the pulsepack terminal.... you want 12 volts at the pulsepack end of that diode wire when the key is turned to the START position. If there is no 12 volts present in the START position, reverse the diode.

The wire on the other end of the diode should be connected to the electric starter cable terminal of the starter solenoid, NOT the battery cable terminal.

Good luck.
 
Mr Joe R. Thank you for the grafic run down once again.I have the plan in hand.Allthough i am still in qustion as to weather or not i really need to use this retro fit diode .after replaceing the old cdi amp i was told to allso put a new coil on when replaceing the amp with a brand new one.I was allso told to remove the old clipper box because the new amp was modified to eliminate the clipper box.does this all make sence? Sorry for draging this topic on& on.I just want to fully understand .So with this being the case do I still use the diode to help with voltage getting to the amp.Or did the clipper box serve as a totally different purpose from what this diode will do thanks again Tony
 
The "Clipper Circuit" was designed to eliminate voltage surges that might exist from the charging system. This was its only purpose. OMC later decided that it caused more problem than it solved..... remove it.

The diode that I recommend installing, and is recommended by a past bulletin of OMC, is to provide the proper 12v voltage to the pulsepack. This diode installation came to be due to the electric starters getting a little age on them which in turn caused the starters to draw excessive voltage..... which in turn drew the needed voltage away from the pulsepack circuit. This drop in voltage at the pulsepack resulted in many cases of no ignition until the key was released from the START position back to the ON position..... a momentary firing at that point due to the sudden disengagement of the electric starter.

Thee diode installation eliminates the above problem and restores the needed voltage to the pulsepack in the START position.
 
Joe that sums everything up for me.It sucks being electrically stupid.Witch in the case I am.You have been very helpfull through all this.And others.Now that i have a full consept on all this I can getr done.As i said to racer 1 stay tuned for my next qustion as I am sure I,ll have one soon working on this 40 year old bucket of bolts.As i sit here one comes to mind.Can i use the newer style connecting rods on this 60hp. My old ones are straight& narrow.The new ones widein out mid way down the 2 holes mike the same.And the stroke is the same.Maybe johnson beefed them up to make stronger. But before i put them in i want to be sure.They are omc rods that have been remanufactured. I only have the cast # so no way for me to cross reference part #.the person I got them from said he thought they came off a 1974 or older 60 or 70 hp johnson. Again thank you Tony.
 
1970 60hp Johnson original connecting rod part number is 382275 BUT has been superseded up to part number 387465.

Unfortunately I do not have either of these items left in my remaining stock so I cannot look up their casting numbers. However, the picture in my 1970 60hp parts book does show a connecting rod that appears to have a tapered leg to it (not straight).

Hopefully someone here will have one of these superseded 387465 connecting rods and will be able to tell you what the casting number on it is, which will lead you in the proper direction.
 
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