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Alpha One Shifting Problem

B

Basque

Member
I've adjusted all cables to spec. and then adjusted them to engage when engine is off. When engine is running, will not engage. Rattles like it's trying.
 
Thanks for the reply!

Take both cables off. Place lower cable in forward gear, chock the prop, check play in cable, 3/8".
Measure distance between brass spanner center and pin center..6". 1986 unit.
Distance between forward and reverse on remote control cable is 3".
Place top cable extly in Place, the turn plastic spanner 4 times away from cable.
Run motor, no engagement.
 
Not just forward, full wide open throttle.

Make sure adjustable stud on shift bracket is at or near middle of slot.

Your 3/8 measurement is not correct.
It takes practice to get the correct measurement...its usually 1/2 inch +/-
 
kghost said:
Not just forward, full wide open throttle.

Make sure adjustable stud on shift bracket is at or near middle of slot.

Your 3/8 measurement is not correct.
It takes practice to get the correct measurement...its usually 1/2 inch +/-
Click to expand...
Hi Jack, the 3/8 measurement was how much play there is in the lower shift cable. I assume it would tell me it's not too badly stretched.
I'll try to make the adjustments at full throttle and not first gear and let you know. As well as moving the bracket to the middle slot.

Marc
Utah
 
Still not engaging with motor running. Will engage with motor stopped.

Difference with boat in or out of water?

Lower unit issue?
 
This makes me wonder if the interrupter switch mounted on the throttle shift plate is functioning properly. I have had issues with this before on mine, but mine was sticking, and killing the motor.

But if the switch wasn't working at all, it would be noisy going into gear without that drop in rpms, and not slide into gear easily. How many rpms is your motor running at idle? Are you familiar with this interrupt switch? Kirk
 
I am. I've lubricated it and on occasion in my adjustments, it has triggered and killed the motor. I was thinking the same as you. I'll play with it some more tomorrow and let you know the RPMs I'm seeing.
Thanks!
 
The interuptor switch is designed to ONLY interupt when shifting OUT of gear.

It has no function shifting into gear.

If it is engaged when shifting into gear, then the cables are adjusted incorrectly.
 
Reread original post.

Double check your 3 inch measurement.

Full wide open forward to full wide open reverse and re-measure and post
 
It's engaging engine off. Engine on....no engagement. Using muffs...boat in water?
Port engine engages/disengages with muffs.
Starboard used to.
 
That puts you at ths MAX allowable travel of the control shift cable.

What I would suggest for your specific situation is to adjust short shift cable to 5 15/16 (no more) center to center.
if you adjust it smaller it may cause other issues.
This will allow shift engagement quicker based on your worn control cable
 
Still having issues. I lubricated the shift cable and I'm feeling a little catch in it preventing it from going into first gear. I've got the outdrive off and am going to change the cable.
 
kghost said:
The interuptor switch is designed to ONLY interupt when shifting OUT of gear.

It has no function shifting into gear.

If it is engaged when shifting into gear, then the cables are adjusted incorrectly.
Click to expand...
Thanks … I did not know this. I assumed it worked both ways going in and out of gear. My experience is limited messing with these things. Kirk
 
Basque said:
Still having issues. I lubricated the shift cable and I'm feeling a little catch in it preventing it from going into first gear. I've got the outdrive off and am going to change the cable.
Click to expand...
I’ve heard you use the term “first gear” a few times now… I didn’t know they made these things with multiple gears. Mine just has forward and reverse. Kirk
 
Waterski term from years ago.
Just means a skier will want you to throw it forward, drag them a bit and you wait for the " hit it" signal.
Just means put it in gear..no gas.
 
I was just razzing ya a bit… I figured it was just terminology. Lol

I’ve still got some tinkering to do with my cable adjustment myself, and another mechanic I’ve used for my boat for my larger projects told me is sounds like he will be replacing my lower shift cable too before it’s all said and done. I’m just not comfortable pulling and muscling a lower unit solo, and I don’t have a shop with a concrete floor that I can use a lift. My boat shed just has a gravel. So if I can’t get my cables adjusted right, I’ll most likely take it in for a full service. I miss my younger, stronger body at times..oh well…

But….Finding out that this interrupter switch is designed for coming out of gear instead of going into gear, gives me a different perspective on cable adjustments now. The interrupter switch is working ok on mine, but the roller on the metal switch leg will not center up properly. I need to disconnect the cable and look at the switch activator assembly closer and see if it self centers without the cable attached. But I see no adjustment for that spring loaded assembly that triggers the switch. So if isn’t centering up right I’ll have to replace the whole shift plate. The switch itself is obsolete, so even if the switch itself was bad, replacement means getting a whole new shift plate assembly with the newer upgraded switch built into it. Kind of a pain in the butt…

Kirk
 
Hey Kirk, I replaced the shift cable, hernia'd the outdrive back on and adjusted the cables. She goes into gear with engine off. Will not with engine running. I've heard to put it in water.???
 
kghost said:
That puts you at ths MAX allowable travel of the control shift cable.

What I would suggest for your specific situation is to adjust short shift cable to 5 15/16 (no more) center to center.
if you adjust it smaller it may cause other issues.
This will allow shift engagement quicker based on your worn control cable
Click to expand...
Put a new shift cable on. She engages the prop with engine off. Engine on, no engagement. Place in water???
 
Too many unkowns about your knowlege.

Have a professional take a look.

Where did you get the tool to remove and install the cable at bellhousing?

How far did you tighten bronze threaded part into bellhousing?

How much end play between cable end and the aluminum cable end shaped like and F?

Did you replace the control cable? You know its stretched to the max allowable....
 
Proper tools were used and tolerances observed.

I didn't post to this forum to be told "call a mechanic". I can do that on my own.
 
Definition of Expert:

"Ex" is a has been, and "Spert" is a drip under pressure.

I'll get my "salvation" from better sources.

Thanks for the entertainment.
 
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