I just installed a new lower shift cable - I replaced both the outer jacket and the inner cable following video instructions carefully from SEI Youtube video.
I am 100% positive that the shift cable end is properly seated onto the roller ball inside the bell housing (and greased)
I also installed all new bellows and cleaned the bell housing to remove crud.
Before attaching the lower unit to the upper unit, I added the shift shaft washer (OEM Mercruiser washer) to make sure the shift boot was pushed up and staying seated in the U-shaped shift mechanism in the back of the upper unit.
I am 100% positive that the lower unit was locked into Forward Drive while re-attaching the lower unit to the upper unit. I used bungie cords and continued to test it along the way and also when I was done.
I am 100% positive that the L-shaped brass shift lever is seated into the U-shaped shift controller in Forward position after attaching the lower unit.
While completing the attachment of the lower unit to the upper unit, I had to turn the prop slightly CCW to get the spline to turn and allow the lower unit to "pop" into place in the upper unit. I heard the the little "thunk" when the spline seated correctly. At this time, the prop was still LOCKED in the CCW direction.
Inside the Engine, I have gone through the exact instructions for setting the proper shift cable adjustments 25 times using SEI videos from Youtube and also a process I found on this forum for using two people to slowly engage the prop until it locks and use that as the lower shift cable setting (plus the 6 inch measurement).
SLOT setting for lower shift cable at engine: This is set to completely down position.
PROP TESTING ACTIVITY (Boat is on dry land):
I can lock the drive into Forward (CCW Lock), Reverse (CW Lock), Neutral.
When in neutral, it spins freely after coming from Reverse.
When in neutral, it spins with a little ratcheting after coming from Forward.
Adjusting the SLOT setting upward slightly does have an effect but I can't seem to get the exact right position.
MY PROBLEMS/QUESTIONS:
When the Prop is locked into FORWARD (CCW LOCK), there is a lot of resistance if I try to turn it the opposite direction (CW). Should this spin freely?
When the Prop is locked into REVERSE (CW LOCK), there is a lot of resistance if I try to turn it the opposite direction (CCW). Should this spin freely?
Why does it ratchet when coming from Forward to Neutral, but not from Reverse to Neutral?
So it sounds like the resistance is normal when going the opposite direction from the Locked position. Thank you for that response.
Now I need to fix ratcheting in Neutral when coming from the Forward position.
Should I try an adjustment to the SLOT position by moving it up a little bit?
Or should I try to adjust the barrel position on top shift cable first - maybe I still need to get that barrel in just the right position? I'm referring to the one that you have to turn backward 4 turns after setting the distance to fit the pin while in the forward position.
I'm only positive the drive was locked in forward position while re-attaching the upper unit. The rest, I'm stuck on so thank you for your questions and help.
Here is a quick video showing exactly how my prop is responding after using Method 2 described below:
I tried two methods for setting the shift cables. Method 2 described below is the current setting of the shift cables that corresponds to the video.
Method One: (following after market shift cable video):
Both cables are removed and the throttle is pushed to forward drive...
Working with the Lower Shift Cable:
I pushed the cable all the way in as far as it would go.
I confirmed the prop was locked CCW
I measured exactly 6 inches from the center of the brass barrel to the center of the hole
I confirmed the pin in the SLOT position was all the way down.
I manually pushed the shifter at the engine into the forward position since it wasn't connected to the throttle when I pushed that into forward.
I installed the brass barrel with the cotter pin.
I bolted the other end of the shift cable to the front pin.
I tightened the bolt on the pin, then backed it off 1/2 turn.
With the throttle still in forward position, working with the Shift Cable that goes to the Throttle:
I pulled on the end of the plastic arm to remove any slack (it didn't really move though)
I adjusted the black plastic barrel position by turning it until I could fit the barrel on the back pin, and the bolt hole lined up perfectly with the front pin (I was slightly pushing the shifter on the engine a little more forward to make sure it was all the way engaged.)
Then I turned the black plastic barrel four turns backwards.
I shifted into neutral
I installed the cable.
RESULT:
Forward would lock in CCW.
Neutral was ratcheting
Reverse was Free Spinning.
Method Two: (following a post found in this forum):
Working with the Lower Shift Cable:
I removed both cables
I put the throttle in forward
I placed my boyfriend at the prop
I pulled the lower shift cable out so it was no longer engaging the prop in forward
I asked my boyfriend to rotate the prop CCW and tell me when it locked as I slowly pushed in the lower shift cable. It spun freely, then ratcheted, then locked. As soon as it locked, I stopped pushing on the cable.
Then I measured the distance from the center of the barrel to the center of the hole. It showed about 6.5" so I turned the brass barrel until the measurement was exactly 6".
I installed the lower shift cable at that setting.
I installed the brass barrel with the cotter pin.
I bolted the other end of the shift cable to the front pin.
I tightened the bolt on the pin, then backed it off 1/2 turn.
With the throttle still in forward position, working with the Shift Cable that goes to the Throttle:
(NOTE: This is the exact same process as described above for this cable)
I pulled on the end of the plastic arm to remove any slack (it didn't really move though)
I adjusted the black plastic barrel position by turning it until I would put the barrel on the back pin and the bolt hole lined up perfectly with the front pin (I was slightly pushing the shifter on the engine a little more forward to make sure it was all the way engaged.)
Then I turned the black plastic barrel four turns backwards.
I shifted into neutral
I installed the cable.
RESULT:
SEE VIDEO ABOVE
Forward locks in CCW. There is resistance when turning CW each time it hits the teeth
Neutral is ratcheting when coming out of Reverse
Reverse locks in CW. There is resistance when turning CCW each time it hits the teeth
Hi kghost, I posted a reply to your question in this thread, but I wanted to reply directly to this message in case you didn't see it. Thanks again for any input!!!
Thank you! That worked perfectly. After two years of working on this boat, and replacing countless parts, I finally put it in the water tonight and went for a ride. It was amazing.
