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alcohol flush after carb cleaner

dizzyspots

New member
OK...so just rebuilt the carbs on the 85 120HP...cleaned the carbs with spray carb cleaner and then blew out all the orifices with compressed air. After putting them back together, I read in the service manual that they need to be flushed with isopropyl alcohol??? Do I need to pull them back off and do this?
 
OMC factory manual...Page 2-23 carb inspections and overhaul:
Item #2: "Thoroughly clean components with mild aerosol solvent" Fig 13: shows a can of "Gumout carb and choke cleaner"
Item #3 "Flush all carburetor holes and passages with a small syringe filled with isopropyl alcohol and blow dry with 25 psi air"

It later refers to testing and flushing a recirculation fitting and block hose fitting with an 1/8" hose connected to a small syringe????
 
There is more than 1 way to skin a cat. It all depends on what's available and how clever and knowledgeable you are. As well as the overall carb condition. OMC has made this recommendation for perhaps the best chance to get it done right. However, I get plenty of work that has been just fresh out of a "certified dealer". Make sure all jets and passages are the correct size, not simply "open". I physically check sizes with a very accurate and complete machinists drill index, as well as a 0 to 1 inch micrometer. Fixed jets of today may partially plug up, especially when exposed to a combination of seasonal use, humidity, and most importantly.......ethanol. I thank ethanol for over 1/2 of my work here in seasonal northern MN. Additives like Amsoil "PI", "Quick Shot", and also "Seafoam", are good maintenance for long-term reliability. Keep your fuel clean and alcohol free, when your equipment is used seasonally. Alcohol can and will seperate from the petroleum fuel in time. Once that happens, it forms a "shield"......so to speak, and will not "remix" again with the petrol. This also changes the octane of the fuel, causing even more problems. I have 10 year old non oxy with stabilizer in my tanks here and it is still beautiful and fresh today. If it was 10 percent ethanol, it would be rotten in about 2 years, even with stabil. It is humid here with massive temp fluctuations from day to night and season to season. This makes ethanol a dangerous product for seasonal equipment.
 
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Thanks Johnny, just trying to help our friends out there. I may not be intelligent, but on some subjects I have some knowledge and experience.
 
so carbs are clean and back on....link and sync is complete...real TDC is marked....can I set initial timing on the "muffs"? Service manual says it has to be on the water with a prop attached ??
 
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