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Adjusting Shift Cable 1970 60hp

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"Hello, I recently bought a &#

"Hello, I recently bought a '69 Glastron boat w/ a 1970 60hp Johnson Hydro Electric Shift motor (60esl70) After going through it and replacing the water pump, thermo and cleaning the carbs it is running pretty good. When I took it out on the water, the motor was OK putting around in gear @ minimum throttle, but at higher RPM's it started to make a loud knocking noise every few seconds that seemed to really rock the engine, but it would move through the water ok.

From what I have been reading on these forums, it seems that this may be either a meshing problem with the Shift dog/gear, a misadjusted shift cable or possibly a spun prop hub. I tried messing around w/ the cable to see if it made any improvement, but now it just seems to move around at trolling speeds. No knocking anymore, but not much power either. It seems like what you would see from a spun prop hub, but I did end up taking off the prop, marking both the prop and the inner rubber hub, replacing them on the boat and throttling it up in the water. I expected to see the marks in different places as a sign of the hub spinning, but it does not appear that they moved at all. Marks still lined up.

Before I start getting into the whole shift dog/gear solution I want to rule out the cable and shift cable adjustments first. Is there any other way to check on if a prob hub is spun that anyone knows of? Also, can anyone walk me through the correct way to adjust the shift cables on this motor? Any other ideas that might be tried? I right now have a nice 60hp trolling motor! I took this picture for reference...
215334.jpg
Johnson 1970 60hp
 
"u dont have a shift cable----

"u dont have a shift cable----u only have a throttle cable...your lower unit,is a hydro-elect one,...it is spring loaded,in forward gear,and uses oil pressure,to force clutch dog in to N & R,by way of elect solenoids and a pump.
in your case,you could make sure u have no voltage on your shift wires,if so,control box/shift sw prob,..if no voltage,...gearcase repair time....and finding someone to wk on it,may be a chore...'
and,by the way,..i am very interested,to know,how ,..u put those red arrows there....impressive!!!"
 
"Thank you for the advice. Sol

"Thank you for the advice. Solenoids seem ok... engine is going into forward and reverse gear, just not getting much power in forward. Was making headway in forward when I first took it out, just clanking a lot. Now won't really move in forward, reverse seems OK though. I have ordered a new prop to check out the possibility of a spun prop hub. If this does not turn out to be the case, I guess that the gear/shift dog will have to be replaced. How difficult a job is this to do? Will the lower unit have to be dropped, or can this be done just by pulling the prop, etc with the gearcase still on the motor? Any special equuipment needed for the job?

As far as the diagram that I put up, I just took the picture & then added the red arrows and letters with the program Adobe Photoshop.

Thanks again for any additional help that you could provide..."
 
"a spun hub,wont cause clankin

"a spun hub,wont cause clanking...i would say,that lower unit needs to be gone thru...a bad clutch dog/forward gear,stuck plunger can cause this prob."
 
"How difficult a job is checki

"How difficult a job is checking out and replacing the clutch dog/gear if needed? Will the lower unit have to be dropped, or can this be done just by pulling the prop, etc with the gearcase still on the motor? Any special equuipment needed for the job?"
 
"(Jumping Out Of Gear - Ma

"(Jumping Out Of Gear - Manual Type)
(J. Reeves)

This pertains to lower units on all OMC manual shift outboard engines, or any OMC engine with lower units defined as a Shift Assist or a Hydro Electric Shift unit which incorporates a "Shifter Clutch Dog".

Within the lower unit, splined to the prop shaft is what is most often referred to as a clutch dog, hereafter simply called dog. The dog has at least two lobes protruding from it on both ends, facing both forward and reverse gear. The forward and reverse gears also have lobes built into them near their center area. When the engine is running, in neutral, the gears are spinning constantly via the driveshaft being connected directly to the powerhead crankshaft, but the propeller does not turn due to the fact that the dog is centered between the two gears, and the dog lobes are not touching either of the gear lobes.

When the unit is put into either gear, shift linkages force the dog (and its lobes of course) to engage the lobes of the gear. The lobes of the spinning gear grab the lobes of the dog, and since the dog is splined to the prop shaft, the propeller turns.

The lobes of the dog and gears are precisely machined, most with right angled edges that could be installed in either direction, and some with angles slightly varied that must be installed in one direction only (one end only must face the propeller). Dogs that can be installed in one direction only, if reversed, even if the dog and both gears were new.... would jump out of gear almost immediately. Keep in mind that the lobes are precisely machined with sharp angles!

Due to improper adjustment or worn shift linkages, but usually due to improper slow shifting, those precisely machined sharp edges of the lobes become slightly rounded. Now, with those lobes rounded, as the rpms increase, the pressure of the gear lobes upon the dog lobes increases to a point whereas they are forced apart (jumping out of gear), and due (usually) to the shift cable keeping tension on the engines shift linkages..... the unit is forced back into gear giving one the sensation that the engine has hit something, and the cycle continues.

Some boaters with manual shift engines have the mistaken belief that shifting slowly is taking it easy on all of the shifting components..... Wrong! Shifting slowly allows those precisely machined sharp edges of the dog and gears to click, clank, bang, slam against each other many times before they are finally forced into alignment with each other..... and this is what rounds those edges off! The proper way to shift is to snap the unit into gear as quickly as possible.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"This is probably a stupid que

"This is probably a stupid question, but since my reverse is working OK, and my forward gear at least functions at trolling speed, is there any type of "Reverse Propellers" available or any way to rig it up that would allow the boats reverse gear to serve as forward. Just a short term fix for the rest of the season, if I don't get a chance to get into the gearcase anytime soon?? I could live without reverse, is this even at all feasable??"
 
Do not even think about trying

Do not even think about trying that reverse prop idea.
 
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