98 Volvo 3.0 is all put back together. Help with re-start please!

[northernterritory]

As you all probably know, I've pretty much went through the entire engine and its components. I have had the cylinder head worked by a machine shop (valves were not seating, head was warped, head gasket blown, block was still level though; looks like someone allowed it to overheat since the water pump wasn't work correctly). The manifold is new, starter is new, new supply water pump impeller and seal, new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, rebuilt carb with new brass float, new fuel filter, new belts, and new gaskets. I'm probably leaving off a few new things as well. What started all of this was a crack manifold. There was also detonation. I am hoping this was caused by the cylinder head issues or carb, and not a flawed fuel pump.

Now that I am about all back together, I need to start thinking about my re-starting checklist. Here is what I thinking and questions I also have.

* I set the float in the carb to be parallel with the body, as per the directions, and the idle screws in their original position. I also checked the power valve lever gap, and it is in-spec. I assume the carb should be good to go?

* I'm unsure how old the gas is, so I am going to completely drain it. Once I re-hook the fuel system up, the fuel filter bowl, the carb, and all of the lines will be empty. Any special procedures to prime the carb?

* Should I install an in-line fuel pressure gauge, or borrow a tester from an auto-parts store to make sure my fuel pump is working correctly? Or, should I just run it and look/listen for the signs of a lean mixture? I know I need to do this in the water; running about idle on tongs is bad idea.

* Will using the garden hose tongs around the foot adequately fill the entire coolant circuit, or do I need to fill it from up around the t-stat as well? I know impellers do not like to be ran dry.

* I know I should re-adjust the valves and re-torque the manifold bolts after a heat cycle, and also re-torque the cylinder head bolts after 20hrs, but is there any other things like this I should do?

* Should I install a water-seperator fuel filter?

* Anything else?

 

[RicardoMarine]

.................

As you all probably know, I've pretty much went through the entire engine and its components. I have had the cylinder head worked by a machine shop (valves were not seating, head was warped, head gasket blown, block was still level though; looks like someone allowed it to overheat since the water pump wasn't work correctly). The manifold is new, starter is new, new supply water pump impeller and seal, new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, rebuilt carb with new brass float, **new fuel filter, new belts, and new gaskets. I'm probably leaving off a few new things as well. What started all of this was a crack manifold. ***There was also detonation. I am hoping this was caused by the cylinder head issues or carb, and not a flawed fuel pump.

Now that I am about all back together, I need to start thinking about my re-starting checklist. Here is what I thinking and questions I also have.

* I set the float in the carb to be parallel with the body, as per the directions, and the idle screws in their original position. I also checked the power valve lever gap, and it is in-spec. I assume the carb should be good to go?
Low speed mixture adjustment screws will need to be fiddled with once you get this engine running.
As for "power valve lever".... are you referring to the accelerator pump?

* I'm unsure how old the gas is, so I am going to completely drain it. Once I re-hook the fuel system up, the fuel filter bowl, the carb, and all of the lines will be empty. Any special procedures to prime the carb?
If you own a Tempo Oil Boy, you can use it to pull fuel through the new lines up to the carburetor.
As for priming the carburetor ...... you can add fuel to the carburetor's fuel bowl via the vent tube.

* Should I install an in-line fuel pressure gauge, or borrow a tester from an auto-parts store to make sure my fuel pump is working correctly? Or, should I just run it and look/listen for the signs of a lean mixture? I know I need to do this in the water; running about idle on tongs is bad idea.
If you suspect that the fuel pump is not working correctly, simply replace it.
As for signs of a lean fuel/air mixture, it is unlikely that you will discover this while running on the garden hose and water muffs.
What are "tongs"?

* Will using the garden hose tongs around the foot adequately fill the entire coolant circuit, or do I need to fill it from up around the t-stat as well? I know impellers do not like to be ran dry.
Access the seawater pump's impeller and impeller cavity.
Liberally coat the impeller and impeller cavity with Glycerin. The pump will then prime itself.

* I know I should re-adjust the valves
We DO NOT adjust valves. The valves themselves are not adjustable.
What we do is make an adjustment at the rocker arm that sets the hydraulic cam follower's plunger depth.
Best method would be to use the 4-stop static procedure.
At #1 TDC C/S, you will adjust both #1 cylinder's Int/Exh cam follower plunger depth to specs.
Rotate the crankshaft 180*, and do the same to #3 Int/Exh, and right on down the firing order.
(if you need further explanation.... post back)

and re-torque the manifold bolts after a heat cycle, and also re-torque the cylinder head bolts after 20hrs, but is there any other things like this I should do?

* Should I install a water-seperator fuel filter?
See ** above.
You mention a new fuel filter!

As for *** above, this could be serious.
Please go into more detail as to what caused you to suspect "Detonation".
If this engine did undergo detonation, you will need to find the cause.... otherwise, you may have a repeat of that!


* Anything else?
Prior to initial start up..... bring the crankshaft around to #1 cylinder @ approx 6 degrees before TDC on the C/S.
Loosen the ignition distributor.
Place a good spark plug in the boot of #1 cable, and give the spark plug body good contact with the engine.
(you'll be creating a high energy electrical spark..... so use caution regarding gasoline vapors)
With the key switch ON, quickly rotate the distributor housing in CCW direction (opposite direction of the rotor).
When the distributor's triggering device initiates one spark event, you will see it at the spark plug.
Do this several times until you get a good feel for it.
Now stop rotating it just as you see one spark event, and gently lock the distributor down.
This will get you close to a correct spark lead for the initial fire-up.
Once up and running, you will set the ignition advance to OEM Marine specs!

If you have not replaced pistons and piston rings, you will not need to go through a break-in period.