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98 Johnson 115 Fast Strike

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Bjsmith919

Regular Contributor
Looking into buying a new (to me) boat. One I'm looking at is a 98 Triton with a 98 Johnson 115 Fast Strike. Been doing some research and I see that some years of the fast strikes were nightmares but can't find much on the 98 model. In the description he says it runs good but talking to him he tells me he's had it a few years and it's never given him a problem. Anyone here have any insight on this particular year? The boat and motor look to be in great condition but I don't want to buy something I'm going to have problems with down the road.
 
IMHO that 1998 115 Johnson Fast Strike Motor was a da^* good motor. I'd take that one before the newer ones.
 
I agree probably a tie between that and the yamaha as the best 115 in it's class. Most of the problems with the fast strikes were with the V6 motors something to do with not gluing the foam molds together properly. But the V4s are as good as it gets I would have no issue at all buying one. They are good on fuel, smooth running and fast.
 
He's letting me test drive it and do a compression test on it. Local mechanic said that I only unscrew one plug at a time and test compression that way and I do not have to ground the plug wire to the block while I'm testing on that particular engine. Is this true? I don't want to mess up the motor before I buy it then be forced to buy a messed up motor. Thanks for the previous answers.
 
Well how should I do the compression test? I've read so many different ways I don't know what to do. I don't want to mess it up
 
Pull all plugs,Disable ignition,run test,3-4 cycles of compression,At least 300rpms cranking speed on engine,fully charge battery before test
 
Bjsmith919 said:
How did I disable the ignition? Pull the dead man switch? Hate to sound like a total noob but I am
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Leave the key in the OFF position.

Using a small jumper wire, jump from the battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages it (not the ground wire 3/8" nut terminal!). That'll crank the engine over safely.
 
joereeves said:
Leave the key in the OFF position.

Using a small jumper wire, jump from the battery cable terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages it (not the ground wire 3/8" nut terminal!). That'll crank the engine over safely.
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But all plugs should be removed instead of one at a time like our local Marine "mechanic" says
 
Bjsmith919 said:
But all plugs should be removed instead of one at a time like our local Marine "mechanic" says
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I prefer to have all of the spark plugs removed to obtain the highest cranking rpm of the engine.... this holds true also when checking the spark.

The exception is............ Some engines, especially the older 1986 and 1987 V6 loop charged models would have the starter disengage as soon as the cylinder being tested started its up stroke if all spark plugs were removed. If this scenario is encountered, just remove "only" the spark plug that is being tested. These finicky engines are few and far between but they do exist.
 
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