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98 Evinrude 150 starting issues

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Wayne87

New member
Sorry in advance for the long read, just want any info I can give to be out there.
I have a 1998 Evinrude 150 ocean pro. M# E150EXECD It has been winning the battle with me.. Currently when I try to start, it will turn over but seems labored and slow and not fire up and after a very short time it almost acts as if the battery is dying (brand new battery)

First off, when I bought the boat it started and ran. was out one day and it stalled and wouldn't start. Noticed gas pouring out of bottom 2 carb throats.
Action so far:
  1. replaced fuel line/ primer bulb
  2. rebuilt all carbs (new floats, needles, bowls, gaskets, and adjusted to spec)
  3. replaced leaking and failed VRO with fuel pump VRO bypass kit
  4. checked fire on each plug with spark tester/ all had fire although I'm not positive on strength of spark
  5. New battery/ all connections cleaned and inspected
  6. complete rebuild of tilt/trim(unrelated to problem)
After all this, it wouldn't start. and acts as though described in beginning. I removed all plugs and did a compression test. All cylinders are at between 85-90 PSI. (which I read is not uncommon for these engines)could be wrong
While plugs were out I noticed they were visibly saturated with fuel and oil. Cleaned and dried plugs then reinstalled. Engine fired up/ ran and idled great, let it run for a while, shut down. Waited a few hours and started again, ran great and idled as it should. let it run again about 20 min, then disconnected fuel line and ran all gas out of carbs until it died.
Next day: pumped up fuel line till hard, and no start. back to square one of it sounding labored and struggling to turn over.

Any ideas anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
 
Wayne87 said:
Sorry in advance for the long read, just want any info I can give to be out there.
I have a 1998 Evinrude 150 ocean pro. M# E150EXECD .......when I try to start, it will turn over but seems labored and slow and not fire up and after a very short time it almost acts as if the battery is dying (brand new battery)
  1. checked fire on each plug with spark tester/ all had fire although I'm not positive on strength of spark
  2. New battery/ all connections cleaned and inspected
After all this, it wouldn't start. and acts as though described in beginning. I removed all plugs and did a compression test. All cylinders are at between 85-90 PSI.
While plugs were out I noticed they were visibly saturated with fuel and oil. Cleaned and dried plugs then reinstalled. Engine fired up/ ran and idled great, let it run for a while, shut down. Waited a few hours and started again, ran great and idled as it should. let it run again about 20 min, then disconnected fuel line and ran all gas out of carbs until it died.
Next day: pumped up fuel line till hard, and no start. back to square one of it sounding labored and struggling to turn over.
Click to expand...
There's no need to run the gas out of the engine and you want the VST to stay full.

Get a cheap adjustable inline spark tester (under $10 from auto parts stores). You want to see the spark jump a 3/8" gap.

90PSI is about right on these low compression engines. As long as all 6 cylinders are within 10% of each other you're in good shape.

Did you remove and clean the positive cable at the starter solenoid and the short wire from there to the starter? Using an multi-meter, check the resistance between each end of your main ground cables, and positive cables to and from the starter solenoid. If you have internal corrosion on those cables it will create resistance. Also make sure your starter has a good clean ground to the block. You can test for a voltage drop by holding multimeter probes on the battery terminals while cranking the engine (with spark plugs installed) If the reading on your meter drops below 10.5 volts while cranking you likely have resistance somewhere.

These ignition systems need to see 350RPM while cranking to make proper spark to start. If all your cables test good, you have a solid 12 volts supplied, your grounds are good, and you've ruled out ignition issues, then the problem could be a bad starter.
 
kevinj said:
There's no need to run the gas out of the engine and you want the VST to stay full.

Get a cheap adjustable inline spark tester (under $10 from auto parts stores). You want to see the spark jump a 3/8" gap.

90PSI is about right on these low compression engines. As long as all 6 cylinders are within 10% of each other you're in good shape.

Did you remove and clean the positive cable at the starter solenoid and the short wire from there to the starter? Using an multi-meter, check the resistance between each end of your main ground cables, and positive cables to and from the starter solenoid. If you have internal corrosion on those cables it will create resistance. Also make sure your starter has a good clean ground to the block. You can test for a voltage drop by holding multimeter probes on the battery terminals while cranking the engine (with spark plugs installed) If the reading on your meter drops below 10.5 volts while cranking you likely have resistance somewhere.

These ignition systems need to see 350RPM while cranking to make proper spark to start. If all your cables test good, you have a solid 12 volts supplied, your grounds are good, and you've ruled out ignition issues, then the problem could be a bad starter.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply, I will pick up a spark tester and check everything else as soon as I can.
 
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