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'97 Evinrude optical ignition got knocked off. Help please

Q

qhn

Regular Contributor
Dear Experts - Joereeves, Racerone, anyone!
I've just replaced the entire ignition system as tests were done along with a bunch of stuffs were out of range (starter solenoid, stator, optical sensor, powerpak). The last component went on was the timewheel plate, spark came back nice and clean on all 4cylinders. Wrapped everything up (flywheel/rectifier cover, lower cowling, etc...) installed the control back on the boat, hooked up the muffs, cranked, cranked, cranked, no fire. Rechecked the sparks=all gone off again. Cut the kill wire at powerpak: nothing, disconnect the rectifier: nothing, disconnect all connectors to the control harness, jump start the starter to crank: nothing....I am back to square one and hit the stone block. Please give me an insight as what could have killed the ignition system quickly as such?
I have strong battery w/great cranking amp and everything. I will do a DVA test all over. But I am banging my head because what can simply cause this? A ghost? ;-(
Thanks for any advice and hope many other boaters and mechanic can view this as a sharing experience!
 
Why are renew so many parts in one time? I can hardly believe that all failed in one time. You can easy test and adjust the optical sensor with a special tool, it is important this is done correctly.
 
Thank you for the advice. The powerpack's wires to the coils were damaged and lost spark on one bank. Brown to brown/yellow wire from stator read 90V at cranking and connected to the PP, disconnected = no change; orange to orange black is also less than 10v, red/orange from solenoid to PP runs less than 10V, red wire to power tilt/trim relay shorted to ground and draining battery, at cranking I do not get above 11v to the pack. Rectifier resistance test shows fine.

After the spark when out again, I did a quick resistance check on the stator: Brown to Brown/yellow: 1074 Ohm, orange to orange/black: 56 Ohm. The stator should be ok.
The optical sensor is new and I just cleaned it with a Q-tip soaked in Alcohol after the spark when off. No change. The timing wheel is used, but in excellent condition and it did work once as mentioned.
Dual coil resistance is within spec.

The suspecting failure is now the power pack and possibly the optical sensor. I am waiting on an extra hand to crank the motor for me while I pierce the pack's wires...

Any other insight is deeply appreciated.
 
qhn said:
Thank you for the advice. The powerpack's wires to the coils were damaged and lost spark on one bank. Brown to brown/yellow wire from stator read 90V at cranking and connected to the PP, disconnected = no change; orange to orange black is also less than 10v, red/orange from solenoid to PP runs less than 10V, red wire to power tilt/trim relay shorted to ground and draining battery, at cranking I do not get above 11v to the pack. Rectifier resistance test shows fine.

After the spark when out again, I did a quick resistance check on the stator: Brown to Brown/yellow: 1074 Ohm, orange to orange/black: 56 Ohm. The stator should be ok.
The optical sensor is new and I just cleaned it with a Q-tip soaked in Alcohol after the spark when off. No change. The timing wheel is used, but in excellent condition and it did work once as mentioned.
Dual coil resistance is within spec.

The suspecting failure is now the power pack and possibly the optical sensor. I am waiting on an extra hand to crank the motor for me while I pierce the pack's wires...

Any other insight is deeply appreciated.
Click to expand...

Your stator Charge Coil(Brown to Brown/Yellow) voltage is too low. Should be at least 150volts to 400 volts
The Stator Power Coil (Orange to Orange/Black) is also low, should be 11 -22 volts.

What is the actual model number of this engine?
 
Thank you so much for being there at this very moment. It's very critical for me to get the spark back up.
The low reading was before I changed the stator, power pack, starter solenoid and optical sensor. I was answering the other gentleman's question as why changing so many parts.

I also answer partial of your question: Yes, the optical sensor is new and clean and being cleaned once again.
The battery is 12.74v and has 105 cranking amps. Yes, it turns the motor fast.
I did get spark after the work was done. I put everything in place while whistling a love song because my job is completed. But again, after hooked everything including the correct new spark plugs and cranked, no fire. Checked spark again, it's gone.

Someone have put a dark blue powerhead and lower unit of an Evinrude motor on a white brackets of a Johnson motor so the Evinrude should be '96-'98. The Johnson cowlings, brackets are of a '96 model.
I am sorry that I don't have the exact model # for this motor.
My question is: what could have caused this disappear of the spark after I've replaced these parts and brought it back to life? It can't be wiring issue as I've ran hundreds of test and fixed all shorts and open!
 
The powerpack was purchased used from a Marine shop in Illinois.
The optical sensor was purchased new from Boats.net
The stator was purchased used from a shop in Minnesota
The solenoid was from me and working good.
All used items were bench tested and have 30days money back.
I couldn't go all new because I have a $600 limit to correct this ignition system failure.

Thanks.
 
You will need to start your testing all over from the beginning. Sorry.
BTW, I would only use a known good "used power pack" for testing purposes.
The rule of thumb I use on OIS engines is, Change all the parts when one fails and get them all from the same manufacturer. CDI Electronics sells a combo kit for these engines. Relatively inexpensive.
 
I agree. This should be the way to go. I am looking for any advice beyond my understanding. I do not want to put in a new set of ignition and then the spark will go disappearing on me again after I strap up those covers and cowlings...
I love to support boaters and appreciated getting some supports at times.

Thank you Jerry for your valuable time!
 
ALSO! You want to make sure you do not have any voltage on the Black/Yellow wire fron the ignition switch. This will destroy the Power pack. So test that before you do anything.
 
What kind of voltmeter did you use? It is extremely important you use a peak voltmeter! Get the correct Servicemanual and check the spec's. I still cannot believe all parts failed in one time. I can also check this for you, but I need the correct modelnumber.
 
Thank you Lenard for the tips. I use multimeter and dva adapter by Patriot Electronics. I also have a home made DVA with a Fluke multimeter and one or 2 more new ones by Universal of some sorts in case my common used one does not read it right.

This is an unusual situation that I come across in 19.5 years wrenching and testing these things.
Anyways, Chris is pointing me in the right direction. I am doing tests all over again and will find it for sure. It's just time consuming and a surprise to see such an ignition system go out that quick.
 
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