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97 Evinrude 50HP No Spark condition

madcrisis

New member
Well first off, I would like to say hello as I am a new member and I found this forum searching for a solution to my problem. I am a young college student with my own boat that has never given me a problem I couldnt find and fix within a day or 2. This one has been getting the best of me for over a week.

OK onto the prelude, the model number is e50esleus. I have not been able to find a service manual for run S only run R for this year so I'm not sure if there is a difference. The boat was put away for the winter running fine and when uncovered last week there was no spark. The coils are good as I have two seperate coil packs both working (replaced due to a faulty kill switch that I thought was a coil pack) and neither are getting spark.

I found some diagnostic procedures from CDI that are supposed to diagnose the problem. I went through what I could with what I had and came up with OHM readings within the range specified for rectifier and stator but my multimeter was not good enough to pick up the voltage spike from the stator. So i borrowed a friends better multimeter (Craftsman Professional) to do some further testing. According to the CDI I should have been getting voltages of around 125V, the meter was only picking up about 33V. this is between brown and brown/yellow. It then says to disconnect these wires and retest and it should jump to over 225. I did not want to tear apart the connection so I used paper clips and alligator clips to jump out. If readings are still low then replace stator. The readings were then 0 so I'm not sure if my method worked. Now I know an oscilloscope would be the perfect tool for this job however, they are expensive and I do not have one. Stators are also about 150-200 for this model so I don't want to buy one and still have no spark.

Does this sound like a stator problem? Could it be the timer base? I have not found a way to test that. Which one does the pulse for the spark come from? I was under the impression that a stator was for the charging system however that seems to be wrong based on the diagnostic procedures. Should I sand the stator to clean it up (like a magneto on a lawn mower)?

Sorry for the long ran but I tried to give all details on what ive done and what I'm seeing. All help is greatly appreciated in advance, and if any other details are necessary please let me know. I want to get out on the water as striper season has started!
 
you have 3 signals coming from the wiring coming from the stator area...the stator has one set of winding for the ignition...one set for the charging system...then you have your timer base signal.....the procedure for checking the resistance as well as the output of all of them are included in the cdi charts...you will need a meter capable of reading peak voltage (dva) or a dv adapter for your present meter..

the motor does not need the charging system to run..it is strictly for charging the battery..to simplify the explanation on the other winding it feeds your power pack and the timer base signal tell the power pack when to fire..

for any of this to work you need to be turning the engine a minimum of 350 rpm..
 
Thank you for the help. I now understand how it works. however an accurate wiring diagram will vastly help. Also can you reccomend me a meter with this capability? i search that site but they dont have the proper one. should the wires be the same? I see very similiar colors. I already ordered a stator based on the readings from the meter but I have a feeling these are not peak values. So it still could be the timer base or power pack. Do you know what type of signal is generated from both? I have access to waveform generators and oscilloscopes to bench test but I have to bring the parts to school and the motor obviously cant come with me. Thank you for your help you have furthered my understanding already.
 
http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessory.php?in=1329773.....this is an adapter for a fluke meter sold at this site..if you dont have a fluke then search the web for meters or an adapter for your meter...they have a very broad price range and you do not need top of the line..

for the ignition winding the output is a sine wave...actually if you have a good meter then you cold probably multiply the reading bi 1.14 and get the peak reading....that does not hold true for timer pulses and power pack output because the are spikes for lack of a better word...

all the trouble shooting procedures published that i know of on outboard engines are written for the use of meters...they work....

am occilloscope is damn near an obsolete tool in the real world except as a teaching tool in electronics.....i am sure there are exception but they were becoming obsolete 24 years ago when i retired...i used them my whole career but they were gathering dust even then...if you had a good one at home it may be fun to scope a motor for reference but they are definitely not needed to fix a motor..
 
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Mechanical engineering. I do not have a fluke, Ive been looking to buy one waiting for a good deal but Im a little short on funds currently. What does that adapter do exactly? is it specific to CDI ignitions? Why can I not just get a peak reading from the meter? And Ive noticed oscilloscopes are never used anymore but they are such a useful tool its sort of strange to me.

You seem to have a lot of experience in this field, what is the most typical thing that usually causes this issue?

Thank you for your help to this point it has been great. If I had the money, Id buy a top of the line meter, but as a college student with a boat among other toys funds are a bit short.
 
there is no one typical thing that causes these failures....you have a choice of getting the proper tools(meter in this case) and following the instruction in the cdi package or randomly replacing expensive parts...your other choice is to buy a couple hours time of a good tech..
 
Yea I understand peak and RMS but thanks for the link. The meter I am using is a true RMS meter. Is the voltages in the CDI manuals a DC voltage though correct? Thats the only way my meter picks it up. It is pciking up 33V but peak is supposed to be about 125, that is a huge difference. I guess I'll be picking up a meter with peak voltage option (never hurts to have another tool). As i said I did order another stator so That will be here monday and I guess I'll go from there. Thank you for your help.
 
Ok for posterity here the problem has been solved and here is the details. It was a bad power pack. If someone is using the CDI diagnostic sheets in the future the ohm reading are correct but the volts are not. I was reading 38V from stator (diag sheet said around 125) and not much more with rectifier disconnected (diag sheet says it should jump to over 225V). Timer base readings were .06V (diag sheet says .6) With power pack replaced spark is very strong and reading remained the same.
 
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