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97 Evinrude 115HP - Starts but stalls

ML_MCM

Member
I'll try and give as much info as I can with this issue....

After the winter, motor started right up and used it a couple times with no issue. Ran great although coming back to the dock stalled when I go to idle. Went to go out again a few days later and starts and stalls. If I try to throttle up it immediately bogs and stalls. seems like fuel coming out of the exhaust given the slick that's bubbling up to the water surface when I try and run it. There was a lot of oil at the intake to the carbs so I did a rebuild on the VRO. Took a look at the float and needle valve in the vapor separator but looked ok and I did nothing. Still same issue. Noticed some fuel spitting out of the hose from the vapor separator that goes into the air silencer.

All new spark plugs. Need to look at them all next time I can get to the boat. Looked at one and it looked un-used which is about right considering I can't start the motor for more than 5 seconds

Is the next step carb clean/rebuild? Something with that needle valve in the vapor separator? Anything else I can check? Any suggestions is very much appreciated

Thanks ML
 
This is the float/needle valve I'm talking about
Capture.JPG
 
Clean vapor separator.---Inspect float valve.-----Perhaps replace diaphragm in the wee vapor pump.-----Replace gasket #27
 
So I bought a gasket #27 and the diaphragm. Is there a rebuild kit for the vapor pump? I see rebuild kit for a fuel pump that has gaskets that look like the ones in the vapor pump. 0393088 part number. Are thes gaskets interchangeable?

Also does anyone have a breakout of this vapor pump? I need to make sure I reassembled it with the correct orientation. One gasket fell and im unsure of the orientation
Thanks
 
There is a small little spring in there that likes to jump away.-----The factory repair kit has complete instructions for this pump / vapor extraction unit.------I refer to it when installing new diaphragm in these pumps.----The fuel on the water may indicate no spark on 1 cylinder.---Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" on each lead?
 
There is a small little spring in there that likes to jump away.-----The factory repair kit has complete instructions for this pump / vapor extraction unit.------I refer to it when installing new diaphragm in these pumps.----The fuel on the water may indicate no spark on 1 cylinder.---Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" on each lead?
Do I have the correct PN for the repair kit? 0393088
 
Update:
Carb rebuild kits were not good. Seats were slightly different size, gaskets were cheap and flimsy and I had a hard time getting the floats where they needed to be. Vapor pump kit great. Instructions. Went smooth
Got it all put back together and it idled great and I think I could have taken it out for a ride except for the fuel coming out of all the air intake ports. Looked like none of the floats were working
Pulled the carbs back out and going to mess with them again.
I think I’m close but is there a way to test these plastic carbs that don’t have a fuel input connection to see if the float/needle valve is working?
Thanks
 
Update:
Had some electrical issues that I got resolved so now back to the issue of this post

Here is what I know
Spark on all 4 plugs
125 psi on all 4
New plugs and after running for a few minutes only 2 showed signs of firing (bottom cylinders)
Was able to rev up for a minute or so and all 4 plugs were warm and showed signs of firing. This told me the without throttling up not enough fuel was getting to top cylinders to fire.

Seems like carbs still. After the crappie rebuild kit I ended up putting the old seats back in which solved the fuel flowing out of the air intakes.
Do you think it’s still float issue or fuel flow into and out of the manifold the carbs mount to?
I hate to pull the carbs again but I will if I have to. Just looking for troubleshoot options
Thanks
 
Update#2:
rebuilt all the carbs with OEM no change
even though I used it a couple times before this happened I was going to draw gas from clean new fuel container
went to drain the bowls and there was no fuel in them.
started it up and was able to keep it going by pumping the primer bulb every so often. Ran great that way so…….

im back to the fuel pump/VRO, which I’ve already done a rebuild to. I could have put it together wrong I suppose
also could be the impulse line from the motor?
Anything I’m missing?

Thanks
 
Carburetor float bowls are known to warp.----Check them.----Pulse limiter could be plugged.-----Crankcase compression needs to be checked.----Have you test run with another tank and hose ?----Your location ?
 
Carburetor float bowls are known to warp.----Check them.----Pulse limiter could be plugged.-----Crankcase compression needs to be checked.----Have you test run with another tank and hose ?----Your location ?
I'm in New Hampshire. Ran from aux tank. no change. Compression 125 psi in all cylinders. Carb bowls do not leak as best as I can tell. Pumped primer until solid looking specifically for bowl leaking. I was going to check the pulse line and try and test the VRO with a vacuum/pressure tester following instructions I've seen online
 
Test VRO operation.----Report results.
Pulled apart the VRO last night just to make sure there was nothing obvious prior to testing it and I believe I had installed the O-Ring prior to the Air Diaphragm when I rebuilt it originally. I reassembled it properly and seems to run great now. Just need to put it in the water and see what it does but I'm fairly certain it will be fine. Live and learn. The good news is I have rebuilt carbs and vapor separator and new fuel line from the tank and I replaced a faulty ignition switch that may have happened on the water instead of in my garage.

Learned a lot about this motor too.
Thanks for your help
 
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