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96 just wont run

H

Hookafish

New member
I'm new to the forums and this is my first outboard.

Its a 96 Evinrude E115GLEDR

When I fire her up on muffs it starts strong runs for maybe 15 seconds and dies off.
So far I have rebuilt the carbs and cleaned installed a new vro pump,
compression reads 125 on 3 cylinders and 115 on cylinder number 1. I would think with these numbers it would still start and idle. Any one have any ideas?
 
When you say it fires up for 15 seconds - when it quits can be it be re-started for another 15 seconds again and again, or does it just die and will not allow you to start it for hours later? Was it doing the exact same thing before you rebuilt the carbs and replaced the fuel pump?

What happens when it's running if you use the warm up lever (very slightly) to raise the RPM - does it still stall? What happens if you push the key switch in (to operate the choke/electric primer) ?

Try manually pumping the primer bulb after starting the engine to see if it will keep running. If possible, take the cover off the air intake and verify that the carbs are not flooding (or find another way to inspect it while the engine is running) - such a condition would likely flood the engine out at idle after a short period of time and may not be noticeable with the cover on.

Check for any loose wires that might be grounding out or causing an open circuit in the ignition system. By running it with the cover off you may see a little puff of smoke here and there to indicate such a problem.

If when the engine quits it stays dead for awhile, verify how the spark is working after allow it to rest, then start it up and cause the condition, then check the spark on each cylinder again. Sometimes dead ignition components can work again and again just for a matter of seconds until failure.

Another possibility is the butterflies on the carbs (or one of them) is out of sync with the rest of the linkage and is starting completely closed. That would cause a condition where the engine would be choking out, so it could fire for a second but after slight warm up it would be running too rich and would stall.

Jon
 
Last edited:
leaky said:
When you say it fires up for 15 seconds - when it quits can be it be re-started for another 15 seconds again and again, or does it just die and will not allow you to start it for hours later? Was it doing the exact same thing before you rebuilt the carbs and replaced the fuel pump?

What happens when it's running if you use the warm up lever (very slightly) to raise the RPM - does it still stall? What happens if you push the key switch in (to operate the choke/electric primer) ?

Try manually pumping the primer bulb after starting the engine to see if it will keep running. If possible, take the cover off the air intake and verify that the carbs are not flooding (or find another way to inspect it while the engine is running) - such a condition would likely flood the engine out at idle after a short period of time and may not be noticeable with the cover on.

Check for any loose wires that might be grounding out or causing an open circuit in the ignition system. By running it with the cover off you may see a little puff of smoke here and there to indicate such a problem.

If when the engine quits it stays dead for awhile, verify how the spark is working after allow it to rest, then start it up and cause the condition, then check the spark on each cylinder again. Sometimes dead ignition components can work again and again just for a matter of seconds until failure.

Another possibility is the butterflies on the carbs (or one of them) is out of sync with the rest of the linkage and is starting completely closed. That would cause a condition where the engine would be choking out, so it could fire for a second but after slight warm up it would be running too rich and would stall.

Jon
Click to expand...

hi thanks for your response. When started the rpm will be at around 1000 or a little more than after about 10 seconds it will start to drop down to about 800 and shortly after that it will die. It usually cranks right back up and does it again. If I choke it I can hear it idle up and sounds good. Some but will eventually die off again. Never tryed the lever your talking about is it the red arrow one? I have the cover off the top and the side covers open so I can see. The butterfly's all look exact "very slightly open). I can't tell if it's flooding out but I did have a leak in one of the carb bowls ( noticed after carb rebuild). It looks like the other carbs have BB plugs in this whole so I plugged the whole to stop the leak. I did that after reading other forums that said the whole should be plugged. Prior to new vro pump and carb rebuilds. It was doing pretty much the same thing. Except I know I needed the vro because the oil side wasn't working properly and there was not a rebuild for it.
 
Hookafish said:
hi thanks for your response. When started the rpm will be at around 1000 or a little more than after about 10 seconds it will start to drop down to about 800 and shortly after that it will die. It usually cranks right back up and does it again. If I choke it I can hear it idle up and sounds good. Some but will eventually die off again. Never tryed the lever your talking about is it the red arrow one? I have the cover off the top and the side covers open so I can see. The butterfly's all look exact "very slightly open). I can't tell if it's flooding out but I did have a leak in one of the carb bowls ( noticed after carb rebuild). It looks like the other carbs have BB plugs in this whole so I plugged the whole to stop the leak. I did that after reading other forums that said the whole should be plugged. Prior to new vro pump and carb rebuilds. It was doing pretty much the same thing. Except I know I needed the vro because the oil side wasn't working properly and there was not a rebuild for it.
Click to expand...

Are you saying by hitting the choke it helps? Could you keep it running by hitting the choke again and again?
 
I didn't mess with the idle screws they seem to be mounted on the manifolds behind the actual carbs. I didn't want to adjust them because when it was last ran a few years ago it ran fine and to my knowledge they weren't ever messed with.
 
OH - I didn't realize this one had an adjustment - follow those instructions on setting the idle mixture - that's almost definitely what it is...

Additionally - if you rebuilt the carbs, you should have had that out for cleaning.
 
leaky said:
OH - I didn't realize this one had an adjustment - follow those instructions on setting the idle mixture - that's almost definitely what it is...

Additionally - if you rebuilt the carbs, you should have had that out for cleaning.
Click to expand...

I only did the carbs didn't rebuild the manifolds or take out the screws. ?
 
leaky said:
Just try setting the screw and see what it does; probably a good idea to get a repair manual as it will detail the method to adjustment.

Jon
Click to expand...

Yes I agree about the manual I have one on order was trying to get this thing back running sooner though lol. Anyway that has got to be something to do with the issue as when I looked at the screwes there are 4 and they are all set differently one feels real loose when u tighten it down can't even tell when it's seated the other is really tough to turn with way. Maybe time to replace those and start the adjustment from scratch :/.
 
Do you agree that the compression readings are strong enough to run? May just take it to the shop but can't afford a rebuild and I know they will attempt to sell me one.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Pull the idle air needles all the way out and inspect the holes be careful you dont lose the springs. I allways lay a rag under the carb/s to catch falling stuff. Spray some carb cleaner it the holes and then screw them in without the spring first to see if it seats properly. Preadjust all four at 1 1/2 turns out as the preadjust I bet it will idle alot better. Your manual will tell you how to dial it in just remember it is better to run the idle air mix on the rich side. In clockwise is lean and out CCW is rich.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll give it a go. Thanks for everyone's help so far. So ready to hear this baby purr :).
 
Hookafish said:
Do you agree that the compression readings are strong enough to run? May just take it to the shop but can't afford a rebuild and I know they will attempt to sell me one.
Click to expand...

It would not surprise me if upon inspection you find that cylinder that is 10 psi below the others has some scoring or something funny going on, however it could just be a little harmless extra ring gap or carbon. For the sake of knowing, it's good to take it cold then follow up and take it when it's warm; you may find when the engine is warm the readings are closer together. If there is ever a need to take the heads off take another check prior then give each cylinder a good inspection to understand further.

With those readings though the engine should be able to run just fine in my experience. They will usually run until they are very screwed up inside (ie you notice the bad compression showing an obvious problem but engine still runs OK until things really self destruct).

Jon
 
So I tryed adjusting the low speed idle screws and went ahead and replaced the fuel line and ended up with the same results:/. I'm starting to wonder if the timing is out of wack. As when I got it the top cover of the engine had been removed, maybe someone took it apart and put it back together incorrectly? Not sure at this point about ready to take it to a mechanic. Just gotta focus on getting the trailer ready for transport. Keep in mind I got this as a project and have been attempting to revive it.
 
So I decided to tinker with it one more time. I noticed I kept hearing a slight hiss when I pumped the new primer bulb I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. I fired her up on muffs and played with the red switch on the fuel assembly and I found that if I kept adjusting it up and down it would idle. That's when I noticed a very tiny hair line crack on the top of the solenoid I also noticed it was leaking gas at this spot. I am in high hopes that by swapping out that part she will idle. What's everyone thoughts.
 
Update:

Replaced the the choke cover and gasket,

I took a All 4 idle screws out last night and blasted carb cleaner into all the idle speed wholes , left it to sit till this afternoon. I than reinstalled the screws till seated and backed them out two turns. I than would adjust them half a turn out each time trying to see if she would idle. And finally she fired up and idled for 10 min :). Problem is I adjusted the tilt just barely up and she died. Now I'm wondering if the floats are correctly adjusted . Sure am glad to see some progress.
 
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