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96 Johnson 130 Low Idle problems and hot running

G

geaux_fishin

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"I've got an issue with my

"I've got an issue with my 96 Johnson 130 (J130TLEDM). At low idle the engine will stall but will crank right back up. Runs fine above idle all the way to WOT (5600 rpms). Priming bulb does not help at idle. Additionally, the number 1 and 2 cylinders (starboard side) are hot to the touch. Could this be an issue with the oil side of the VRO pump (running lean) and could they be related? Here's what I've checked so far: Compression is 130 in all 4 cylinders. Spark is good. No air leaks in fuel lines. Recently synchronized carbs and throttle linkages. Just changed fuel/water separator filter as well. Any help is appreciated."
 
"How low is your idle, what rp

"How low is your idle, what rpm ?

and have you ever decarbed the engine?

I doubt its the oil side of pump as it would affect all cyl's."
 
It idles at @ 800 rpms in neut

It idles at @ 800 rpms in neutral and when put in gear it slowly drops to the point where it dies unless I give it more throttle. I decarbed the engine around 30 engine hours ago with Sea Foam Deep Creep sprayed into the carbs.
 
"Have been told it may be cran

"Have been told it may be crankcase seal rings. Also, I've been doing some research and believe it may be gummed up/clogged carbs on starboard side, causing it to run lean and get hot. Any ideas?"
 
"Shawn,
Sounds like maybe two

"Shawn,
Sounds like maybe two sparate problems. Idle circuit in the carbs are fowled/clogged causing the idle problem. Try spraying a little pre-mix into the carb at idle. If it runs better than you have something amiss with idle circuit. If it bogs then it's something else. Temp problem may be something in the cooling system like a faulty thermostat. How much hotter is the starboard side vs. the port bank cylinders?"
 
"I changed thermostat assembly

"I changed thermostat assembly and waterpump two days ago and it still got hot. Water flow is good out of the tell-tale as it was before. The starboard side is way hotter than port side. I could not keep my hand on the starboard bank, but port bank was fine."
 
Yeah it shouldn't be that

Yeah it shouldn't be that hot. If you just keep it idling does the starboard bank still get that hot or only after running it at faster rpms does the starboard bank get hot. I am trying to determine if there is a water flow problem on that side. You can also use an IR temp gun to try and pin point where exactly in the cooling circuit the temp might be changing. Maybe there is a clogged cooling passage somewhere on the starboard side.
 
"It does get hot at idle, part

"It does get hot at idle, particularly after the auto choke goes off and it drops from 1200 rpms down to around 800 rpms. I'm assuming at higher rpms it doesn't get hot. Once the idle drops to normal the heat rises quickly. This is not only on the flushers, but when I have it backed down the boat ramp with the engine in the water. I have thought it could be a cooling passage as well."
 
"No, the alarm doesn't go

"No, the alarm doesn't go off and no warning light on the dash. I tested the tan wire and grounded it and only the light comes on in the dash, but no horn sounds. Horn does beep when the key is turned on when it goes through it's initial setup. Tested the other warning circuits as well and only got the light on the dashboard. Does the horn only sound when the engine is running or should it sound whenever the circuit is grounded?"
 
I don't own this year/size

I don't own this year/size motor so I am begining to run out of ideas. I am more knowledgable about the 80's engines. I would think it would sound whenever grounded but...I don't know. There is another thread going on about a 97 150 Hp with a similar discussion. The horn has a test circuit built into it. It should sound the alarm for a short time whenever the key is turned on. However I don't know if it alarms with only the engine running. How about the service manual? Do you have one? What does it say? Do you have a wiring diagram?
 
"I have the SELOC manual and i

"I have the SELOC manual and it covers mulitple years and models. It says it should sound when the tan wire is grounded, but makes no mention of whether the engine needs to be running or not. I do know the lights work on the dash and they do not come on."
 
Your motor should be hot to th

Your motor should be hot to the touch!
It sounds like you have an open thermostat on the other side (3 and 4) keeping that side too cold and every body knows a cold engine dont like to idle!
 
"Shawn I have one of these mot

"Shawn I have one of these motors I use in the DE bay and ocean and I have had all the problems you are talking about. First thing I did was to take out the therms altogether and run it until what ever got into it was gone, took a year. it would put on the hot alarm when it was cold and would not pee worh a damn. Ok solved that problem and replaced the therms and all was well. Next problem. my motor would not idle but sometimes it would like yours,found out after awhile the best thing to do is disconect the vro and mix your gas and then buy a new fuel pump, solved my problems until 2 weeks ago I lost spark on the bottom 2 cyls. Gues what? Ive had it with this motor, Ill look into a new one , good luck"
 
"Just wanted to ad one more th

"Just wanted to ad one more thing to the disscucion , you say wot is5600 rpms the rev limter on this motot is 6800 rpms and belive me on mine its doing 6800 at wot, which is rare for me to run it that hard."
 
"Thanks for all the tips. Phi

"Thanks for all the tips. Phil, not a bad idea to check the port side thermostat and see if it's stuck open. Lee, good tip also. It may be something blocking the cooling passages. I may pull thermostats out and leave open and drop the lower unit and run the garden hose up the water tube and see if that might flush the passages out. 5600 is WOT on that motor and it has always reached 5600 since I've owned the boat for 5 years. It will go about 44 mph at 5600 rpm so I think that's accurate."
 
"Shawn, Dont bother to drop th

"Shawn, Dont bother to drop the lower unit and flush with the hose I tried that strait away and made no difference, just take out the thermostats ,and I meen all the peices and run it . The other thing I learned along the way is to replace the water pump with the correct evenrude part.Some how it makes a vast difference. Just keep all the thermostat parts as they are very costly when you have to rerplace them, I lost all the parts when I did this and they cost me over 100$ because they dont come in a kit, had to buy each part.I can give you the part number for the pump kit I just dont have it in front of me now. I didnt mean to degrade your boat by the comment on the rpm I was simply stating a fact. Im just trying to relate some of the thins I had allready with this weido motor. The other thing is the idle I have tried to get some one on here to help me with this in the past and all i got was compression values spark jumps 7-16 ect and I tried all that stuff and I will tell you that my motor would idle sometimes except when I was either puting it into a dock or on the trailer. I know it was starving for fuel and I did not want to spend 400$ fot a new fuel pump but I found on on E-bay for alot les and that solved the problem. Also with the etonal in the fuel I would replace all the fuel lines filter ect, thats what eat up my stuff. This motor seems to demand alot of fuel at low speeds Good luck"
 
Also dont forget that if the p

Also dont forget that if the port side thermostat is stuck open the water from the pump will take the easiest path through that side reducing the flow on the good side making it run hotter
Running with no thermostats is rather risky.
If you happen to run into some colder water the block will be cold enough to cause a cold siezure on the pistons
 
"Phil,

That's what it w

"Phil,

That's what it was! Port side thermostat was stuck open. Problem solved...both sides are running at @120-130 degrees when warmed up. Thanks for all the help."
 
""No, the alarm doesn'

""No, the alarm doesn't go off and no warning light on the dash. I tested the tan wire and grounded it and only the light comes on in the dash, but no horn sounds. Horn does beep when the key is turned on when it goes through it's initial setup. Tested the other warning circuits as well and only got the light on the dashboard. Does the horn only sound when the engine is running or should it sound whenever the circuit is grounded?"

The horn will not sound unless the engine is running when testing each warning circuit by grounding the sensors. The lights in the tach will light up properly, but the horn will not sound.
This is covered in the OMC manual, but totally absent in the SELOC and Clymer manuals."
 
"Doug,

Thanks. I thought t

"Doug,

Thanks. I thought that was the case, but had no way of knowing. I need to buy the OMC manual and trash my SELOC."
 
I should have also added that

I should have also added that this is only with the 1996 up OMC engines that have the Systems Check wiring and tach. Earlier engines do not behave this way.
 
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