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'95 15 hp no idle/hard start

JonnyFish

New member
This motor sat for a while and a lot of the linkage was stuck. Got everything freed up but it will only start if I hold the throttle plate and spark advance open. Then it runs great until I let go and it goes back down to idle speed where is acts like I hit the kill switch. I'm just guessing that the idle circuit in the carb is plugged off.

I know nothing about these motors. Is there a way to clean the circuit with wire while the carb it bolted up or should I just suck it up and do a carb tear down? Or am I barking up the wrong tree with my theory?
 
..." I'm just guessing that the idle circuit in the carb is plugged off."

Me too.

Take a deep breath when the man tells you what a rebuild kit for them costs; and you'll need one.

Jeff
 
Come on Jeff, it's "only" 80 bucks :)

Given that it has been sitting I would absolutely put in a carb kit. DO get yourself a Seloc's manual.

In many cases you could argue that a service manual is "better" but the Seloc walks your through a carb rebuild where a service manual assumes that you mostly already know what you are doing.

It is worth going that route because the cost to have this rebuilt at a dealer (at least up my way) is 300 bucks - so 80 bucks for a kit and 35 for a manual is "cheap".

You will also want to (minimally) replace the impeller and have a good look at the waterpump seals/gaskets when you do. A "not uncommon" issue with these is the rubber seal in the waterpump cover (where the drive shaft comes through and the water tube connects up) - they tend to split between the hole and the guide tube allowing water to blow out.

I would also grab a new pair of spark plugs - NGK BP8HS-15 gapped at .040" - do not cross ref to a Champion plug, no good on this motor.

Given that it's a 95 model (if you have that part correct) it's starting to get old enough where you could experience a couple of other "common issues" (I own three motors from the group and have worked on a ton over the years).

The original coils develop some spider cracks in the cases - this results in an infrequent miss that gets worse as the cracks get more severe. It's worth taking the coils off and giving them a good wipe down (they get gooky over the years) and inspect them closely. If you notice any sort of cracking on the cases replace them - but not with OEM - Sierra makes a superior coil for these for somewhat less than half the price of OEM.

The second issues that is somewhat common is worn out crank seals - there is a seal at the base of the motor and one up under the flywheel around the crank shaft. It's not that these are flimsy, but by design they do have a limited service life - 15 to 20 years seems to be common.

An oily goopy mess in the lower cowl (may) indicate a bad lower seal (less common) - after you get her running for a bit if it looks like someone has sprayed the powerhead with a light coat of fogging oil or WD-40 that could indicate a bad upper seal (more common issue than the lower seal) - so something to watch for.

But first things first - get the carb sorted out and the impeller and get her fired back up.

These are awesome little motors, perhaps the best 15 horse built by any mfg all time - worth getting it going and using it for many years to come.
 
Thanks guys! Might try the rag over the intake trick just for fun but i'll get a carb kit and impeller on order. I'll be sure to check all the points you mentioned galanb.
 
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