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94 E70TLERC voltage through the solenoid

pencil5757

New member
With the wire disconnected from the starter I have voltage through it when you turn the key But when I book it to the starter it still clicks but no voltage when checked at the starter post.
Just got this boat 94 E70TLERC it was doing this got a new starter hooked it up and same thing I thought it must be the neutral switch so I worked the shift lever back and forth and got it to fire and even started and ran for a little then died just like you switched it off with the key, and now just like it was.
 
If it clicks, the neutral switch is ok.
1. Make sure the battery is good. Have it load tested
2. Make sure the battery cable connections as clean and tight. Don't just look at them and wiggle them. Take them apart and CLEAN them shiny bright.
3.It probably works by now. If not, check the voltage on BOTH large solenoid posts while solenoid is "clicked". If voltage on only one, solenoid is bad. Otherwise, see 1 and 2.
 
If it clicks, the neutral switch is ok.
1. Make sure the battery is good. Have it load tested
2. Make sure the battery cable connections as clean and tight. Don't just look at them and wiggle them. Take them apart and CLEAN them shiny bright.
3.It probably works by now. If not, check the voltage on BOTH large solenoid posts while solenoid is "clicked". If voltage on only one, solenoid is bad. Otherwise, see 1 and 2.

New, charged battery, good connections, it might be the solenoid when clicked I have voltage on both large post when it's unhooked from the starter BUT when its hooked to the starter no voltage on the starter side.
 
So, what you are saying, starter cable connected, solenoid clicked, you have voltage on one side of the solenoid, no voltage on starter side. That right? If so, clearly a bad solenoid.
 
Yes that's right, ok I can replace it but I still don't understand why it works when it's not connected to the starter? I disconnected it so I could see if it was the starter or the solenoid so how do you check the solenoid?
 
I could go into a long spiel about voltage , resistance, and current, but won't. Short story is the internal contacts are not able to pass a heavy current.

Here is another test: Do a voltage drop test across the solenoid. Connect your voltmeter's negative (black) lead to the side of the solenoid leading to the starter. Connect the positive (red) lead to the other side of the solenoid. You should see a nominal 12 Volts. Now, leaving everything connected, energize (click) the solenoid. In an ideal world, the indicated voltage should drop to zero and the starter should run. In a real world, the indicated voltage will drop considerably but maybe not all the way to zero, but the starter should still run. This would indicate a solenoid not perfect, but still ok, according to how close to zero it goes. Finally, if the voltage stays high, around 12V, the internal contacts are shot and not able to pass the high starter current. In other words, the electricity "sees" the contacts as still being open, even though they should be closed when clicked.

Hope I said this correctly. Hey, it's 5:30 AM and I haven't had my coffee yet.
 
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