waynebrown
Member
During a link and sync I'm having an issue getting the throttle cam pointer to line up. It appears the 'factory' specified length for the link to timing plate is preventing the throttle cam from aligning. It will line up without timing link connected BTW, although about 3/4" too long.
Engine runs, and runs fairly well; WOT on binnacle pushes the carbs open beyond wide open and I've never been able to get the timing to stabilize enough for my taste. Otherwise I'd not be screwing with it. Timing at idle shows +4 to +6, not been brave enough to have wife at helm to check WOT timing underway..yet.
I've gotten the 'factory' manual reprint from here, as well as a SELOC manual.
Was about to yank the flywheel off until I realized a trip to the hardware store to get the correct bolts was in order so decided to check p/n's of cams for throttle and timing cams which are correct. (keep reading, reason below)
I'm guessing either the flywheel key may be sheared, or the timing base is unable to slide to it's full travel, looking for confirmation or somewhere else to look.
Engine is actually on the hit list for a rebuild over winter, compression is 120\115 but my gut tells me the engine is sucking air past upper and lower crankcase seals as carb adjustment is too finicky, and I cannot get consistent idle without having to lengthen rod from throttle cam to carb. (opening carbs 0.30" from full closed.
If I can ever get the dang pointers lined up, I plan on doing Mr. Reeves' WOT timing routine.
For the other basics; hot spark blue and 7/16" gap, temps around 160F measured at the thermostat housing with IR gauge, ATM in barrel/ constant running hose refill.
FWIW; Boat and engine hung on davits for the better part of 20 years prior to my purchase, Timing cam lever had been replaced, had paint pen writing on it stating for OMC 48 (prompting me back checking p/n's) Obviously several backyard 'repairs' be it owner/mechanic/ beer drinking buddy that have been corrected as the season progressed.
Freezeplug does have same s/n as swivel bracket. I suspect salt encroachment if not outright submergence somewhere along the 20 years on a davit, I've replaced the entire undercowl wiring harness due to corrosion.
Rotating the flywheel by hand both ways you can hear slop somewhere internal, not sure if driveshaft to hub, or something more sinister until I tear down later.
Prior to VRO pump crapping out, compression was +/- 150, yea it was self-inflicted. Now premix but engine suffered from the experience.
As I intend to rebuild; my primary goal for now is to get it all working as advertised so I don't have to chase silly stuff post rebuild.
Engine runs, and runs fairly well; WOT on binnacle pushes the carbs open beyond wide open and I've never been able to get the timing to stabilize enough for my taste. Otherwise I'd not be screwing with it. Timing at idle shows +4 to +6, not been brave enough to have wife at helm to check WOT timing underway..yet.
I've gotten the 'factory' manual reprint from here, as well as a SELOC manual.
Was about to yank the flywheel off until I realized a trip to the hardware store to get the correct bolts was in order so decided to check p/n's of cams for throttle and timing cams which are correct. (keep reading, reason below)
I'm guessing either the flywheel key may be sheared, or the timing base is unable to slide to it's full travel, looking for confirmation or somewhere else to look.
Engine is actually on the hit list for a rebuild over winter, compression is 120\115 but my gut tells me the engine is sucking air past upper and lower crankcase seals as carb adjustment is too finicky, and I cannot get consistent idle without having to lengthen rod from throttle cam to carb. (opening carbs 0.30" from full closed.
If I can ever get the dang pointers lined up, I plan on doing Mr. Reeves' WOT timing routine.
For the other basics; hot spark blue and 7/16" gap, temps around 160F measured at the thermostat housing with IR gauge, ATM in barrel/ constant running hose refill.
FWIW; Boat and engine hung on davits for the better part of 20 years prior to my purchase, Timing cam lever had been replaced, had paint pen writing on it stating for OMC 48 (prompting me back checking p/n's) Obviously several backyard 'repairs' be it owner/mechanic/ beer drinking buddy that have been corrected as the season progressed.
Freezeplug does have same s/n as swivel bracket. I suspect salt encroachment if not outright submergence somewhere along the 20 years on a davit, I've replaced the entire undercowl wiring harness due to corrosion.
Rotating the flywheel by hand both ways you can hear slop somewhere internal, not sure if driveshaft to hub, or something more sinister until I tear down later.
Prior to VRO pump crapping out, compression was +/- 150, yea it was self-inflicted. Now premix but engine suffered from the experience.
As I intend to rebuild; my primary goal for now is to get it all working as advertised so I don't have to chase silly stuff post rebuild.
