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91 evinrude intruder alarm

Is it a fuel restriction alarm; no fuel no crank. Model #?

What I can read online it has some thing to do with oil temp. Boat has not been started in years. Model # is E150GLEIS. Thanks for any help. And I can hear fuel goin into carbs when I pump bubble.
 
Perhaps the buzzer itself is defective.---Nothing to do with oil temperature.---------Will the motor crank if you use boosters directly to the starter ?
 
Will try this evening. Owner says he could remember this happening before and he had to change a sensor but had it done. Does not know what it was.
 
Replaced fuel filter and unpluged vacuum sensor and vro. Alarm eventually stopped. Still no crank. Jumped me a hot wire to starter, motor fired up with no problems.
 
Working on a boat that has a alarm ringing constant when you turn key on. Motor will not crank. Any advice?

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Motor won't crank, meaning electric starter does not turn engine over: You've jumped the solenoid and the electric starter functioned so obviously the electric starter is okay and the problem is elsewhere.

Usually this type problem is caaused by one of two happenings (or both)...

1 - Either a cable/wire associated with the electric starter system has a loose connection "OR" a tight but dirty/corrosive connection, in which case remove and clean all cables/wire associated with the electric starter system and clean thoroughly the cable/wire terminal ends along with whatever component they attach to, then tighten them securely with a wrench or pliers... not your gingers if wing nuts are encountered.

2 - The "Safety Neutral" switch which is located within the control box "OR" attached to the contol handle assembly if a console control mount, is slightly out of adjustment. Jiggling the throttle handle usually causes the switch to be intermittent. Should this be the case, the switch is adjustable and can be moved slightly closer to the cam which operates it.

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Warning horn sounds as soon as the key is turned to the RUN (Not Start) posiiton... a constant steady beeping:

1 - With the horn blaring steadily, remove the TAN wire from the horn. If the horn continues to sound with that TAN wire removed, the horn is faulty in which case replace it.

2 - If on the other hand, the horn stops sounding instantly when the TAN wire is removed, one of the sensors at the engine is usually faulty. With the horn sounding again, simply start to unplug each sensor at the engine (VRO, Vacuum Sw, Heat Sensors (2), Oil Tank), one at a time. When the horn ceases to sould, you've found the faulty sensor. If the sensors check out (horn continues to sound)... suspect that the TAN wire has grounded out somewhere.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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