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'91 60hp Evinrude Hard to Start

P

papafrancisco

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I have a '91 60hp (E60TLEIB) that is a bear to get started. I may not be starting it properly. I have tried several techniques such as pumping the bulb until it can no longer be pumped,
1) starting with no throttle and pushing the choke in while starting,
2) starting with idle throttle and pushing the choke in while starting,
3) starting with WOT and pushing the choke in while starting

Once it starts I have to adjust the throttle or push the choke in
AFter starting we have blue smoke that is like crop dusting. After warming up the smoke disappears.

The above happens when the motor sits for a week or longer. After the initial starting the motor starts fairly easy.

As I said above I believe I am not choking, throttling, or starting it properly. I also noticed that I have gas/oil mixture in the motor housing. I plan on replacing the fuel lines/hoses under the shroud just to eliminate leaks. Any ideas are certainly appreciated. Please feel free to ask questions. Thanks in advance.

I failed to mention the fuel has been replaced, Startron fuel treatment added, as well as Larsons and Sea Foam, etc...
 
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"crop Dusting" response to normal usage and starting with very little result means......................Give the engine a birthday and Love.

Service and tune at least.

Post some pics, we all love pics aye.

B
 
Does this problem happen after the mtr sits for some time ?? How's it run after you once get it started and cleared out ??
 
Yes. OMC had some bad oil tank caps where the tank would build up pressure when sitting. This in turn would fill up the carbs with oil and they would be hard starting. To prove it after it sits, pull the float bow drain plugs, pump the primer bulb and see what comes out.
 
Not sure as to where the float bow drain plug is. I reckon you're referring to oil primer bulb. This should be a good test since the boat has sat for over a month in the tilt position.
 
The float bowl drains are at the bottom of each carb. You'll have to pull the air silencer cover to get at them. The bulb
you pump is the fuel primer bulb.
 
Thanks Boobie. I will look at this tomorrow afternoon. As you can see from my last posting I'm pretty ignorant on boat motors but I will try and locate the drain plugs and keep you posted. Thanks again!
 
I trimmed the motor down and starts much faster. Now I have a miss. While idling the telltale stream is erratic and a belch of smoke in the exhaust when it misses. Plugs are new at .030. Haven't replaced the wires yet. Tomorrow I am going to use a separate fuel tank to eliminate water in the fuel tank. I got to thinking I don't think I ever drained and replaced the oil. Is it possible for the oil to breakdown/separate over time? I haven't added oil for the past five years (obvisously I don't take the boat out much). Am I all wet with my thinking? Thanks
 
Let's try a different approach... With the prop in neutral, how far should the throttle move forward before the motor RPM's increase? There is a large area (about 45 degrees) that my throttle goes through before the linkages on the motor move. I can move the throttle back and forth without changing the RPM's. Is this normal?
 
Picture of your control box ?------On most control boxes there is a provision to lock out the shift function and advance the throttle for starting and warm-up.----------A standard OMC control box has a small lever that must be raised for starting.
 
racerone said:
Picture of your control box ?------On most control boxes there is a provision to lock out the shift function and advance the throttle for starting and warm-up.----------A standard OMC control box has a small lever that must be raised for starting.
Click to expand...

The throttle lever has a button to push in to disengage the prop and also has a red handle to that is depressed to engage forward/reverse. Thanks racerone for the responses.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Are you leaving the fuel in the carbs when the boat is sitting in limbo. Pull the intake cover and drain the float bowls and get a can of seafoam and with the primer bulb pump the carbs full of seafoam after you change the fuel lines. The next day start and run around 3000 rpms until the smoke clears out. It sounds like a little ethanol issues going on there? Are you flushing the motor on muffs after each use? If the motor is going to sit for a while allways store it in the running position to allow the engine to drain the water out fully. Also sounds like it needs a new impeller, the less you use the motor the more preventive maint they need. On a premix motor you just pull the fuel line and run the engine out of fuel after each use but for a VRO just drain the carbs after you flush the cooling system. Even lake water has alot of silt and minerals run it on the muffs until the thermostat/s open and the drain the fuel out of the carbs and see how easy it is to start when you pump it full of fresh fuel. Also keeping the fuel tank topped off will prevent water intrusion from the rise and fall of the barometer and for god sakes take it out and run the fuel tank close to dry at least a couple times a year.
Click to expand...

Thanks kimcrwbr1 for the response. After pulling the boat out of the water, the motor is put in the vertical position to drain the water from the lower unit. For my understanding I will drain the bowls, pump pure Seafoam into the bowls, let it sit for a day and then run until the smoke clears. Yesterday I pour a half of a can of Seafoam into a gallon of gas and let it run for until the smoke cleared. There was some smoke initially however it clear away and the motor idle and water stream were very stable. I normally add a can of Seafoam or a bottle of Startron to my high octane fuel when I fuel it (about 10 gallons). However it appears condensation may have already migrated into the fuel tank since I last used the boat on the 4th of July. I do have the VRO system. Yesterday I removed the tank to drain the rather old oil that has been in there for over five years. Is there anything special to adding the oil to an empty VRO tank other than using the primer bulb?
In regards to using the muffs to clean after using the boat, I stand guilty. How will I know when the thermostat opens? What fuel additive is reccomended after filling the tank and letting it sit for the winter? Your explanations makes a lot of sense. I am grateful to all that responded to my cry for help.
 
One of those motors in good condition will start right up.-----So either there is something wrong with the motor or the starting procedure needs a review.
 
The key is pushed in while cranking the motor.-------The fuel pump will supply fuel to the primer and a continuous spray of fuel is put into the motor.-------One of these motors in good condition and with the correct starting procedure will----START RIGHT UP !
 
Thanks racerone and kimcrwb1. I believe the problem is OHS commonly known as operator head space. I have learned a lot from you guys on the forum. Your explanations leads me to believe I don't have a motor problem. I think I have aeverage less than 7 hours a year of actual run time. Last year I finally replaced the impeller since the purchase in '93. I have been extremly lucky as well as blessed!
 
Has the cooling system modification been done on this powerhead ? ---Involves relocating the indicator hose to the top of the block.
 
There is a factory service bulletin that came out years and years ago to move the hose to the top of the block.-----------I am surprised at the number of motors that have not had this done.--See your friendly dealer.
 
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