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90 5.8 L OMC

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Glsmn

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Removed Sterndrive, replaced lower with new SEI unit, replaced gimbal bearing, impeller bearing and impeller and both bellows and related O rings and seals, made sure the engine was lined up properly but cannot get the outdrive all the way on tried different angles but just won’t go all the way. Any suggestions?
 
That and also what I have found helps is to get a long thin screwdriver, that you slide into the ujoints, as you are trying to slide it on, if it doesn't go, turn the ujoints just a slight amount, like maybe 1/8" or so, that will help the splines align and it slides right on. Makes the difference between fighting with it for an hour and having it on in 10 minutes.
I have had an outdrive jack for about 15 years, it makes the outdrive on and off routine much easier on your back. Doing it by hand, is frustrating and causes back injuries. google Stumpy's fab works. Not cheap but works great.
 
louc said:
That and also what I have found helps is to get a long thin screwdriver, that you slide into the ujoints, as you are trying to slide it on, if it doesn't go, turn the ujoints just a slight amount, like maybe 1/8" or so, that will help the splines align and it slides right on. Makes the difference between fighting with it for an hour and having it on in 10 minutes.
I have had an outdrive jack for about 15 years, it makes the outdrive on and off routine much easier on your back. Doing it by hand, is frustrating and causes back injuries. google Stumpy's fab works. Not cheap but works great.
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Thanks for the tip I’ve been using an engine hoist attached to the eyelet it goes all the way in except for the last 3/4” I know it’s probably something simple
 
There is another way that I thought of, it will work with the OMC but not sure in your case due to it being the SEI conversion from the OMC Cobra to the Merc Alpha set up:
With the Cobra, although the manual says to R&R in neutral, you can remove it in FWD or REV, as long as the drive & remote control shifter are in the same gear. So this way, with the prop installed, you could turn the prop slightly as you try to side it on, that will turn the driveshaft because the drive is in gear, and when the splines line up it will slide right in. I installed my drive after winter storage a couple of weeks ago and I literally had it on in 5 minutes.
When it doesn't go on it is usually either:
the end of the driveshaft isn't entering the gimble bearing (driveshaft didn't go in straight enough)
or
it did go in straight enough but the splines aren't aligned.
Now if you pull it in the fall, and reinstall in the spring and the engine and drive haven't moved at all, the splines "should" be aligned, sometimes, not quite enough. I know I fought with it enough times before I remembered this "trick":

Back in the '70s we had air cooled VWs, when we pulled engines to do clutches, we'd install the clutch plate with an alignment tool. To get the engine to slide back up to the transaxle, I would use a socket and ratchet wrench to turn the engine over just a fraction of an inch, same thing, the splines have to align.
 
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