9.5 cylinder head

[shinola]

timguy, you're a popular guy. Inbox is full again. So since I'm in a hurry, I'll post...

I cleaned up the 1957 18 head from the original motor. I didn't think it would clean up good, but it did, so I'm going to re-use it on the Johnson block.

I really need that 9.5 head. I'm starting re-assembly and would like to get it in the water around thanksgiving. Please send me pictures today and let's make a deal and get it in the mail. Thanks.

 

[timguy]

Sorry, Shinola. I'm mismanaging my mail box here. I like to save my old messages to revisit. I need to transfer them to a file, and clean up. I sold some really old ice skates on eBay, so will ship them when I go to town to ship your cyl. head. Dug out the 57 head too, but if you don't need it, that's fine. Will send this now, then edit in a few minutes with a picture. Be sure to resurface heads with procedures found here on the forum. Use wet or dry paper and water. LIGHTLY anti seize head bolt threads. Why? When originally assembled, the bolts have a light zinc coating. After time, it dissolves and breaks down. It has to be replaced with a little nickel coating. Copper anti seize is not my favorite....I like nickel...

 

[shinola]

The bolts from both motors had some amount of corrosion very close to the gasket location. What about replacing with stainless and using the Evinrude gasket seal as an anti-seize? I read about using that in one of the older manuals. I had intended to replace some of the older slotted and phillips bolts with Allen screws and use stainless, particularly at the head, motor mounts, and exhaust side cover. Is that okay or a bad idea?

 

[timguy]

Stainless is fine. You want to spend the cash. The OEM head bolts have a special 3/8" hex head and broad surface to draw evenly to head...something you might look at closely. There may be something there that will not allow a larger hex (7/16") and washer to be used. Even eliminating the washer then might work. The standard 1/4" stainless bolts, however, have that 7/16" which might not allow use of a socket or box wrench on some locations. Do you need the idle adjustment arm? You can have the bolts. Looks like thermostat intact. Didn't break the gasket to look. It is well stuck in place.

 

[shinola]

Yes, please send the idle adjustment arm. Let me know the total, thanks.