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'88 Evinrude 25HP Flywheel Removal

kevinj

Advanced Contributor
Model E25TECCA 1988 Evinrude 25HP tiller, short shaft, electric start.

Here's the run down. I bought this engine in unknown running condition for cheap and I'm rehabbing it to use on a 16' tinny on vacation in August. From the looks of the chewed foam under the hood and the corroded paint on top of the engine there used to be mouse colony in here. I had to replace the CDI (thanks Tim's Outboard) because the that harness was chewed. I have good compression (125PSI) on both cylinders, fresh gear lube, fuel pump rebuilt, carb rebuilt, a new water pump going in, but I only have spark on the top cylinder. I swapped CDI leads and the dead spark stayed with the bottom coil. That coil has no conductivity to ground and the top coil with good spark (Jumps 3/8" gap) has 256 ohm to ground. This leads me to believe my replacement CDI is good and I just need to replace the coil (new coil is on order).

Now to my main question. When I twist the throttle there is significant resistance and I don't see the timer base moving at all. This also prevents the throttle linkage from actuating the carb. My assumption is I need to remove the flywheel to clean and lube the timing mechanism but the flywheel won't budge. I got the flywheel nut off but when using my puller I broke one of the 1/4"x20 grade 8 bolts in the flywheel. I'm pretty sure I can drill and extract it, but before I go any further I'd love some advice and suggestions for getting this flywheel pulled so I can get the timing cleaned and lubed. Since I have spark I'm assuming it's all working electrically, I just need to get it moving mechanically. I'm hopeful once I solve this I'll have a nice running engine.

I would appreciate any suggestions and advice.

Thanks,
KJ

BTW.....when removing the lower unit I found factory paint on the shift shaft and saw no tool marks on the nuts. If I had to guess, I'd say the original water pump was still in this engine :oops: This thing seems like it has sat more than it has run in it's 36 years of life.
 
Will do. I just need to get the broken bolt extracted first.

Is it okay to heat the flywheel for extra persuasion? If so, how hot is too hot? I don't want to risk ruining the upper crank seal.
 
Heat should not be needed.------Tighten the 3 bolts.----Give the pusher bolt a bump with a hefty hammer.-----Flywheel should pop off the taper fit.
 
Thank you for all the advice, I got the flywheel removed and found a bunch of dried grease between the stator and the center race. A good cleaning and polishing with #0000 steel wool got all the junk and corrosion removed and a little molly grease has it all sliding nicely.

One final question. What is the flywheel nut torque? I've found references saying 100-105 ft-lbs but I want to be certain. Also, what do you use to hold the flywheel steady while torquing the nut? I'm thinking a big strap wrench, but I"d like to hear any other suggestions.

Thanks.
 
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