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79 evinrude 9.9 problems.

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Dodgeviper80

New member
Hello everyone, I'm having two issues with my evinrude 9.9 looking for advice. First is there a way to eliminate or bypass the terrible throttle mechanism, I need to angle the tiller to operate the motor on my boat and the teeth wont grab they just slip. Second issue, I was trying to clean the tell tale and the nipple broke off of the exhaust manifold and I'm left with a flush plastic piece. Should I go in with a solder iron and melt the rest out or remove the 0owerhead and drill it? I'm just going to throw in a brass nipple if I can find one the right size.
 
If you're that far away from the motor and the angles are too steep for the throttle you may want to consider adapting the motor to remote control Kit# OMC0398032.
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0398032

I wouldn't use a soldering iron. I think you can remove the exhaust cover plate without pulling the power head. If so, just remove that, clean out the broken nipple, chase the threads, and install the brass nipple.

If you do have to pull the powerhead, I would strongly encourage that you replace the Upper Water Tube Grommet (PART# 0324045). Item# 39 on this parts diagram: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Exhaust+Housing
I had all kinds of water flow problems on my '79 9.9HP and the cause was this grommet which is known to deform and restrict flow.
 
Thank you for the help, I can't seem to get the bottom two fasteners on the outer exhaust cover without pulling the powerhead which I'm trying to avoid. Do you know if that plastic nipple is threaded in or pressed in?
 
Have to remove powerhead to undo lower bolt on exhaust cover.
Those gears get stripped as things seize up. Have they got teeth busted off on them?
 
Its almost worth drilling a hole or 2 in the lower cowling to avoid pulling the power head i reckon, have not tried it though, this would allow you to undo the lower bolts.
 
Stick the pointy end of a file in the hole and spin the plastic out i take it this is a kicker setup just link it to the main and uset the steering wheel kits are available.
 
If I can find an angled file to get at it lol. It is a kicker, the steering is good just the gear teeth are broken, it was that way when I got it. I just got a 15hp johnson parts motor for $75 so cheap replacement, I also thought about drilling a hole in the lower cowling, but just one big enough for a file to pull out that broken piece of #$!@ nipple. The engineers who decided plastic was a good idea should be punished.
 
Not the fault of the engineers to use plastic.-----It is the buying public that demands cheaper / affordable stuff !
 
racerone said:
Not the fault of the engineers to use plastic.-----It is the buying public that demands cheaper / affordable stuff !
Click to expand...

...or the designers spec'd brass and was overruled by the bean counters in management. Usually the drive is in profits..spec plastic and charge the same is usually the case..I don't like blaming engineers..
 
The plastic could have also been weakened from a overheat condition that plate gets pistol hot just as quick with no water. Yes i do blame that on engineers we are talking pennies maybe a nickle in the manufacture process.
 
poida said:
Its almost worth drilling a hole or 2 in the lower cowling to avoid pulling the power head i reckon, have not tried it though, this would allow you to undo the lower bolts.
Click to expand...
Pulling the powerhead isn't too bad really. I had mine off fairly easy and the only thing needed for re-install is the base gasket and the water tube grommet. If the exhaust plate has to come off my vote is to pull the powerhead just so you can also service that grommet. When I had my water flow problems Joe Reeves put me on to that grommet as a common issue....and he was right.

KJ
 
kevinj said:
Pulling the powerhead isn't too bad really. KJ
Click to expand...
...so long as you don't have too much salt water corrosion that will make you snap 2 or 3 of the power head holding bolts as it did on my 87 when I tried to go for that damn grommet! lol so I bailed out on the project as a result of too much corrosion and too many broken bolts (2 at the power head base and 1 at the head)
But sure enough the grommet was completely clogged btw, so +1 on the tip from kevin/JoeReeves...
 
Ended up pulling the powerhead no way I could of removed that plastic nipple without, got the brass fitting, gasket is good. Guessing recent rebuild. I don't see any grommet though is it on the lower?
 
The grommet is at the top of the inner exhaust tube if you still have it apart you may as well replace it for giggles unless you plan on going back there in the future?
 
Well I got it back together water flows nicely. Should've replaced the outer exhaust housing gasket because it leaks ever so slightly but I can live with that. I'll do a head job on it at the end of season and change all the gaskets. Thanks for the advice. Racerone was correct in the 1/8 npt btw.
 
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