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76 35hp Evinrude Crankcase/Powerhead Question

M

Matthew Ritchie

New member
Before I get started, I'll give you some info on the the outboard and it's problem. It is a 1976 35HP Evinrude Model #: 35652S. I took a gamble when I purchased it, but for $75 who wouldn't. It wasn't running and one of the starter mounting holes (the one directly above the carborator) on the crankcase was cracked off and stripped out. Well, I got it running, after replacing a few parts (coil packs, plugs, low speed needle and some wires) by pushing against the stater. I don't know what I was thinking but I turned the key without pushing against the starter (only 2 of the 3 bolts holding it in place) and BAM. I tore the other 2 stater mounting bolts/threads on the crankcase. I've searched for a replacement crankcase ensemble for 1976 and nothing. Not even used. I know they are different part numbers, but can i go up a few years (77-81) and use one of their crankcases? All the diagrams show them being the same, but the part numbers do differ. I'm probably wrong. Hope I'm not though. Found a few 78's and a 81 crankcase on ebay. Thank you.
 
I looked on cragslist. The only one I can find is over 8hrs away. Being in the military it's really hard to get time off. The crankcase and head unit is fine. Its the threaded part on the intake portion thats separate from the crankcase that bolts to the carborator.
 
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s914.photobucket.com/user/m_t_r_86/embed/slideshow/1976%2035%20HP%20Evinrude"></iframe>

Heres the photobucket of the pictures. only way I could get them to upload.
 
After you look at the pics, is there any way I might be able to repair it? JB Weld broke off. Any other ideas? I'll try most. Trying not to spend a ton of money if I can avoid it.
 
I believe there was a change in the shell of the center bearing for the crankshaft.--Also a change in the exhaust tuner in the way cooling water passages go into the block.--Later blocks may be usuable but you have to do some research.----I do not believe J-B weld will hold up in repairing starter mounts !
 
I'll give it a shot. Since I'm going to have to remove a lot of the front part of the engine, I think I'm gonna replace the gaskets or maybe a rebuild kit. If I can find those. I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you.
 
The crankcase (block) is cast in one piece, then split. As such, it is a one piece unit with the front section (your damaged portion) perfectly matched to the rear section (the pistons, head, etc portion). You cannot install a forward section of a crankcase to a different cankcase rear section.

You are faced with a choice of replacing the entire crankcase (block)... OR... doing a Mickey Mouse repair with a foreign forward section and hoping it seals & aligns properly... OR... doing away with the electric start setup (selling the electric start setiup separately) and having the engine permantly converted to a manual start only engine.
 
I had mine (1966 Johnson FD20 18HP) welded by a friend of mine who is a Certified Welder. He used the TIG process. Cleaning and fit up are critical!!
Bill

Crankcase2.jpg


Crankcase3.jpg

Crankcase4.jpg
 
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Wow! Mine isn't that bad. I removed the forward portion (carb, intake manifold and leaf valve plate) and all looks very clean. I did look at the fuel pump and strainer and that too is in surprisingly good shape. I will, however, change the pump and screen as well as rebuild the carb. Have had high end flooding issues. Nothing major. Once I get a gear puller i'll remove the flywheel and start removing the rest of it. Since I'm going to have it almost completely apart, I might as well replace the gaskets and bearings and maybe the piston rings. All of coarse if I can get the starter mounting hole fixed up. I'm gonna try and drill a little further into it and tap it, and once I do that, I'm going to use some of the military grade locktite we have at work and thread the stud in and try JB Weld over the broken portion. Fingers crossed....
 
Here's an update.

I clean every piece of the engine and snapped a few bolts due to the corrosion. So I decided not to change the head gasket in fear of snapping one of those bolts. Luckily the bolts I snapped were 2 on the exhaust cover on the side of the block and 3 of the exhaust housing that sits inside the tail. I'm going to try and salvage atleast on of those bolts on the housing. 3 good threads are better than just 2 holding it up. Also I JB welded the starter mount on the bottom half of the engine. So far it looks good. We'll see if it holds under pressure. Fingers crossed. Here are some pictures. As it comes together there will be more. Thanks for all the help.

http://s914.photobucket.com/user/m_t_r_86/slideshow/1976 35 HP Evinrude
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item58b0d36ca8&vxp=mtr
There are alot of carb kits, you may want to clean the fuel pump also it will be obvious if it needs a kit then you can order them together. Be sure and replace the fuel lines also. I allways try to determine the cause of the broken piece looking closer at the damage I could only imagine to senarios 1 the wingnut that put the starter back on used ft lbs instead of inch lbs when tightening it down, in that case look for anything else that dont look right real close. 2 the starter was enguaged while the engine was running and the pinion teeth hit the flywheel just right to jack it out usually it just makes a grinding noise not that I have ever done that before:) Hopefully you can get it repaired without haveing to break the crankcase apart.
Click to expand...

It was fairly easy and not too lengthy of a process to split the crankcase. A couple hours a day for 3 days (6-7 hours total) for the whole process of tear down, replace all gaskets, set the points spacing, rebuild the carb and check all the bearings.
 
joereeves said:
The crankcase (block) is cast in one piece, then split. As such, it is a one piece unit with the front section (your damaged portion) perfectly matched to the rear section (the pistons, head, etc portion). You cannot install a forward section of a crankcase to a different cankcase rear section.

You are faced with a choice of replacing the entire crankcase (block)... OR... doing a Mickey Mouse repair with a foreign forward section and hoping it seals & aligns properly... OR... doing away with the electric start setup (selling the electric start setiup separately) and having the engine permantly converted to a manual start only engine.
Click to expand...

If it doesn't hold, and since I was never given the broken off piece to re-weld, I will have to try and mickey mouse it with another engines front case. I dont want to scrap the motor. Tons of really clean good working parts to scrap over that one broken piece. And it will cost over $300-400 to convert to pull start. At that price I'll wait til I find a donor motor or find another good/great working 35 hp from 1976 and use mine as extra parts. You are right though. At this point only two options left if the JB Weld doesn't work.
 
All done. The JB Weld did not take, but the retaining strap I made is doing the job perfectly. Adjusted the points and timing and she purrs like a kitten. A little warmer than before, but flawless. Thank you all for your input. Now all I have to do is get her out on the lake.
 
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