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73 Johnson 135 needs a gander.

B

billythegrape

Regular Contributor
Guys,

I got this engine for $200 with controls last year. It has good compression. I've been fixing the crap wrong with it as it had been taken apart for spare parts and generally treated like a stump.

Everyone is always so helpful here. Could someone take a look at the photos and see what's missing?

I think I might be missing:

-a bit of carb linkage, I know I'm missing the retainer for the manual choke

-the piston for the choke solenoid, but I don't know if this works anyway

-part of the neutral safety switch circuit


Sor far I've replaced all bad ground wiring, all the cracked coils, the cannibalized starter, and the rotten water pump. I had to rewire the wiring harness as the PO had it all hacked up. There is no key, so I disassembled the controls to fiddle **** the key circuit and found one of the mounts for the cables to be broken. It's in the small side panel of the controls, so maybe I can find just that little panel.

I plan to replace the plugs as they were smashed, replace all lines and hoses as they are rotten, drain, blow out, and refill the foot and add a fuel filter.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Smashed spark plug(s) can be from a bad rod bearing, you really should pull the heads and have look, these engines were notorious for breaking rings and still having compression. If I remember, good compression was 130 -135 psi. I would split the block and have a look at the crank and rods before I would drop a dime in it. I loved these motors, we had a new one in 1974, but they did have their issues.
 
The 1973 V-4 blocks were " oddball "----Few parts from 72 will fit internally.----Few parts from 74 will fit internally.----I would not spend too many " beer tokens " on this one.
 
fitz73222 said:
Smashed spark plug(s) can be from a bad rod bearing, you really should pull the heads and have look, these engines were notorious for breaking rings and still having compression. If I remember, good compression was 130 -135 psi. I would split the block and have a look at the crank and rods before I would drop a dime in it. I loved these motors, we had a new one in 1974, but they did have their issues.
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Hey thanks, I should've clarified. The plugs were broken from the top as this was mounted on a wooden board in a field. I think they got broken when he moved the motor. No internal damage!
 
racerone said:
The 1973 V-4 blocks were " oddball "----Few parts from 72 will fit internally.----Few parts from 74 will fit internally.----I would not spend too many " beer tokens " on this one.
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Good point but I already did! Just need someone with good eyes to tell me what I'm missing.
 
Another issue. The motor works. I drained the unit, removed the lower line and blasted air through the fill hole to clean it out. I have refilled with hydraulic oil, ran it up and down a few times. I can't seem to get it to work properly. It was going up fine but not down, I loosened a release on the lower left and now it won't go up or down without assistance. HELP!
1000020094.jpg
 
Got the bastard almost going. Found a bad starter solenoid and a bad rectifier during testing. Will let you know what happens. Replaced the key switch and fixed all bad wiring according to the diagrams. I think it'll be pretty good once it's going.
 
Since someone has cobbled a newer style power trim unit on this queen an replaced the tilt tube with a bolt; you have no where to attach the steering cable.
 
fitz73222 said:
Since someone has cobbled a newer style power trim unit on this queen an replaced the tilt tube with a bolt; you have no where to attach the steering cable.
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The tube is there, the bolt was keeping junk out of it. However, the tube seems to be backwards in the motor, as the longer threaded side is opposite where the steering cable enters. It also doesn't seem to be long enough. What are my options here?
 
Ok I think the cheapest route is to remove the tube and measure it. The steering will work once the tube is a proper length. I'll update once it's in the water.
 
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