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72 50 hp evinrude

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bruno

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Hi Joe and thanks for the rep

Hi Joe and thanks for the replies again and for the "new conversation"tip. I'm new at this board and still feeling my way around. Well as you said earlier to check the solenoids once the unit is "benched" I did that and the readings haven't changed. The units both neutral and reverse were both working fine before this episode happened and I must tell you I had another chap tell me the same thing that they should be fine once the shaft problem is rectified. He had also said that applying 12v to the solenoids with the unit on the bench I should be able to hear the units clunking...I don't. This chap rebuils o/b for a living but I will check these in more detail. I also understand that these shafts are no longer available anymore or they had taken them out of the price catalogue. Is this true and my only hope would be if anyone will have a used or an extra in stock somewhere? This shaft is definately longer than 20" but I can't tell you if it's the worm style at the bottom or if the top spline would be fine or coarse. Can you let me know what this engine should have in it and how much these things are worth. What stock do you have? New or used? Thanks again Joe....Bruno
 
"Bruno... Hearing those soleno

"Bruno... Hearing those solenoids click in would be difficult. If you have a drill large enough to grab the top of that broken driveshaft, you can supply voltage to those shift wires while cranking the unit. That would engage the forward or reverse shifting action.

I have no idea as to what you mean by "Worm Style". The bottom of the shaft has a fine thread and is attached to the pinion gear by a nut that must be torqued specifically. The top of the shaft on that model would have four (4) splines.

The length of the actual shaft has no meaning to me. I need to know the measurement of the transom at the center (keel) line from top to bottom. Or if the engine is off the boat and the boat isn't handy... the measurement on the engine from under the bracket where the engine would rest on top of the transom to the plate that is directly over the propeller.

I have too many items in stock to list them, and pertaining to what they're worth, they vary. Get that measurement to me and I'll pinpoint their value and whether I have the item or not.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)"
 
Hi joe...I've finally mad

Hi joe...I've finally made my way to go see the boat and found the measurement to be 22". Would you have one in stock and what may be the cost to send one over? the engine is an evinrude 50hp.
 
"Bruno.... That measurement wo

"Bruno.... That measurement would put your engine in the standard shaft area which would be (what is called) a 20" shaft.

Unfortunately I do not have that driveshaft but it is still available. The original OMC part number, and the superceeded numbers are 385102, 390941, and the latest #396935. The new price would be approximately $350.00. A used one in perfect condition would go for about $100.00.

Joe
"
 
" Hi again Joe, I'm in the

" Hi again Joe, I'm in the works of trying to locate the driveshaft and now I've got the good folks from partsagogo asking me for the exact length of the shaft, the number of splines at the bottom of the shaft and whether the waterpump is pin driven or driven by a keyway in the shaft. Would you have any answers to these questions and are they necessary...I certainly don't. Thanks in advanced Bruno "
 
Question for Joe :
the ori

Question for Joe :
the original omc part #'s given I'm told are for a short 15" shaft with 10 or more splines at the top. This does not sound like what I got. Are we certain that these numbers correspond to a 50hp 1972 evinrude driveshaft? Please let me know asap...thx Joe
 
any good ideas??????? a dri

any good ideas??????? a driveshaft snaps just under the splines at the top end. How can I get the piece out from the bottom end once the lower unit is out.
The telescopic magnet has been tried and failed.
 
"Bruno.... Other than removing

"Bruno.... Other than removing the powerhead, drilling and tapping the broken piece, then removing it with a threaded puller, you might want to try the folllowing.

Have a welding rod or some other compatable rod long enough to reach up through the exhaust housing and contact the broken piece. It's a good idea to have the rod insulated with a plastic tube so that it doesn't make ground contact with anything other than that broken piece of driveshaft.

With the welder on, make contact with the rod to the broken shaft.... a solid contact. The idea is to weld the rod directly to the shaft. If successful, you can now yank that bugger out of there.

I can not stress the insulating thing too strongly, and be sure to have some way of keeping it centered. You wouldn't want to weld that rod to the surrounding crankshaft! Good Luck.

Joe
"
 
four splines or multi..does a

four splines or multi..does a multi splined driveshaft work for a four where a four splined shaft is requires? A marine shop says that the multisplined shaft has the same #'s for a 50 hp '72 evinrude as the four splined shaft....can anyone tell me what this motor requires?
 
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